yorkshire_spam
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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam
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michael_charlton wrote:Waxstat ...get rid Have you got a s/s heat shield behind the carbs? The usual fuel evaporation sounds the culprit There's a manky silver painted bit of cardboard at the back of the carbs - does that count? ;-)
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The 1500 Spitfire ran great this morning on the way to work and no problems at all at lunch time when I nipped out. BUT on the way home this evening on the motorway the temp managed to creep just above normal (normal operation seems to see the temp needle vertical, tonight it was about a needle's width above that - not climbing toward the red or even the 3/4 mark - but above normal) And then it started to misfire. Badly. At one point I thought I had a fuel leak it stank that bad. Which pushed the temp up by about another needle's width on the gauge. Pulling the choke out seemed to alleviate the problem of the misfire. I'm thinking maybe the tuning is a little weak and the nasty 'orrible waxstat jets are making it even worse when it's hot. Other options? Any advice? I twiddled the ignition timing slightly at the weekend - so I guess I should double double double check that before I launch into anything else?
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Mine isn't attached, it tucks under the floor pan carpets once in place.
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Unless something else is wrong (points, dizzy drive etc) then you are right, it should just be a case of turning the dizzy (after slackening the clamp!)
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Looking at the wiring diagram - the feed to the "lights" fuse, is piggy backed off the feed to the "always live" (brown) fuse - so if they are both gone I'd check the line between the solenoid and the first fuse (big brown wire!)
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Dunno which is top/middle/bottom, but: brown fed fuse is "always live" (horn, interior light etc) red fed fuse is side/tail lights white fed fuse is "live on ignition" (indicators, instruments etc)
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Unless something has been added that's about it - 3 bulkhead fuses. Good voltage at the battery? White is "usually" live on ignition IIRC (On a 1500 it is anyway)
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Anyone got a couple that they can spare off an old tunnel? Turns out I have 2 missing. :-( Would be annoying to have to order from Canleys or wherever just for 2 little bits of metal! Beer tokens or a pint at the next P+P meeting I make it to?
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Although I prefer the looks of the earlier Spits and GT6 I deliberately bought the 1500 last summer because it had 12 months MOT and was a running project candidate - going for the 1500 kept it in budget but allowed me to get a runner. I've already massively enjoyed the driving I've had out of it since getting it. Gently getting it ready for the 2014 RBRR... adding the overdrive this month was another step in that plan.
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Hey Shaun, car is a running project - it's MOTd taxed and tested, but just been off the road for 3 or 4 weeks while I swapped the gearbox for an OD unit. I know I have some patches to sort out on the back end of the chassis on the OS, but sooner or later I'll have to open the can of worms and sort that rear inner wing out. It'll bug the hell out of me until I do. Might patch/bodge it until I've had some summer use out of the car and then tackle it properly in Autumn. Maybe.
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So, laying under the motor the other night refitting the exhaust I notice that the bit of the rear inner wing on the OS that stick out below the boot floor is looking "manky". So I prod it and most of it falls out. I'm thinking it needs at least the "small" lower repair panel, but how should I go about it.... Strip the WHOLE outer wing off, investigate and take it from there Cut the bottom section off the outer wing, investigate and hope I can get away with the small lower repair sections for both inner and outer wing? Other option I haven't thought of? Cheers, Sam
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Personally I'd get a volt meter and check that the green feed wire (plain green, no trace colour) has 12V (or thereabouts) on it when the ignition is on. Does the reversing light work? The if there's a feed via the green, I'd switch off, and start looking at continuity across the switches in various gears - one should "work" when you are in reverse, the other (IIRC) in 3rd and 4th
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Clutch release arm pivot pin - missing?
yorkshire_spam replied to yorkshire_spam's topic in Drivetrain
Well, two possibilities - The retaining pins used in Land Rover brake pads - a little loose on the sleeve in the release arm, but the shoulder on the end of the pin stops it dropping all the way through. Second option, found an old bolt with a really long shank, just the right diameter for the sleeve in the arm So I recon the bolt is the preferred option - with the threaded part cut off it should be about the right length. Thanks for the reassurance Nick, was beginning to wonder why 0% of the gearboxes I'd encountered had them! -
The bit that should be "inside" here - Is missing on BOTH my gearboxes - the one I got with an OD didn't have it, so I thought "oh well I'll use the one from the existing box". So this evening I examine the box I've just removed and there isn't one there either! So what happens to 129410 ? Do they evaporate or something? Is there a reason why neither of my 'boxes have it?
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Overdrive J type gearbox fit 1500 spitfire?
yorkshire_spam replied to Andy_w83's topic in Drivetrain
Just out of interest, anyone know the part number for the mounting plate for a J-Type overdrive on a a single rail box? Is it TKC1407 O/D MOUNTING PLATE - SPIT 1500 ? http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/spitfire1500overdrivemountingdetails.html&xsl=diagram.xsl&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/spitfire1500.html&category=engine -
I'm not tight, short arms and deep pockets is my problem.
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I'm going through that process on my 1500 Spit at the moment - I'm just picking a section at a time, splitting the live feed over a series of fuses and patching in new wires. I started with this http://www.andystanton.co.uk/spitfire/wiring.jpg And so far I've got to this: Dunno about how the '69 is wired though.
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Nice neat work Falcon!
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That's a nice neat set-up. I'm planning to fuse the lights and introduce relays into the headlamp circuits so that they can be uprated and maybe put a "master" fuse in both the perm. live and live on ignition circuits. With 4 relays and 12 fuses I should just about have enough. Your positioning looks more accessible than mine, but I'm not happy about having mine under bonnet without them having a lid/casing.
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I shoved a post on my blog last night - I've been prototyping a new fuse/relay holder for the Spitfire http://yorkshire-spitfire.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/prototype-fuserelay-box.html Before I go much further with it - I'd appreciate any constructive criticism from wiser and more experienced people! Cheers, Sam
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Double double check the rocker shaft orientations - at least one source gives the markings the WRONG WAY. I can't remember if it's haynes or not - but it is possible to get them the wrong way round.
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Wouldn't be without an active mask - wish I'd bought one years ago, couldn't believe how much easier it made things!
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Thanks Anthony - I'll get some scraps together and try it!
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Hi Danny, until I get to tuning I don't know, I'll take the tops off the carbs and have a look ASAP.
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Thanks Shaun. 1/8th plate and bloody loads of AMPs - I know where I stand. Nasty thin stuff....gah.... sooner or later I'm gonna end up blowing holes in it!
