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yorkshire_spam

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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam

  1. yorkshire_spam
    Woohoo 1/4 unf grub screws are about 10p each at the "local" nut and bolt place. That's that sorted! I'll extract the broken grease nipple, put another one in (gently) - apply grease - remove and add a grub screw. :) Just slightly peeved that I couldn't get the job completed last night.
  2. yorkshire_spam
    Anyone know the thread that's used for the nipple? I'm thinking a hex grub screw or something?
  3. yorkshire_spam
    Mine looks like this, but instead of a blanking plug there's the sheared off end of a grease nipple:
  4. yorkshire_spam
    Which way around should they be? Grease nipple biased toward the drive flange/diff/inner end OR toward the driveshaft/hub/outer end? Old one doesn't have a grease nipple fitted.... nor a blanking screw - so no help there! It's not even as though I was over-tightening it. :-/
  5. yorkshire_spam
    Rebuilding Spitfire rear driveshaft..... couple of quick questions about U/Js: 1) Can they be used with the grease nipple in place? They look like they might foul the yokes? 2) [rhetorical] Is it supposed to shear off when you screw it in? :-/ Cheers, Sam
  6. yorkshire_spam
    What type of locks are they?
  7. yorkshire_spam
    £35 for NOS outright? Sounds like a bargain to me!
  8. yorkshire_spam
    Aren't they type 14? Are they different to Spitfire 1500? Depending on which side I might have an old one you could recon or use as exchange?
  9. yorkshire_spam
    I went the other way, quite happy with the "risk" of an ebay purchase and ended up rebuilding the gearbox as a result (about 100 quid on top of the purchase price) stripped and checked the OD at the same time - needs about 20 quid in parts spending on it. I guess it depends on money vs risk vs how much spanner work you can/will do.
  10. yorkshire_spam
    Already relay'd and fused as part of last year's re-wire project. Also ran thin wall high current wires out to the front (split the loom, removed the old, added the new, re-wrapped the loom) :-)
  11. yorkshire_spam
    Prep-work started on hard-top, parts ordered. Oil and filter change done (incl Wix adapter so I can have a nice filter!) New headlamps acquired - bulbs now instead of sealed beam. Still to do: refurb hardtop gearbox oil change and re-fit cover properly fit headlamps check/replace rear UJ/bearings as required. check diff oil. etc etc
  12. yorkshire_spam
    Ask if you can send em back?
  13. yorkshire_spam
    I think it's a bit of a shame that the list of checkpoints has been given without location information, so all the experienced teams now know where they are going, but us first timers won't be able to start looking at the route properly until after the drivers meeting. As a first timer I'd have liked as long as possible to prepare in advance.
  14. yorkshire_spam
    I share the concerns for trunion bushes, but though I'd give them a try on the back of the Spitfire. 100% sold on SuperFlex/SuperPro suspension bushes though.
  15. yorkshire_spam
    Poly bushes (polyurethane) are a popular replacement for the original metal/rubber suspension bushes. Quite often modern pattern suspension bushes are poor quality, poly last longer and give better ride than poor rubber bushes. There's some debate as to whether or not poly are better than original OEM spec rubber/metal bushes, but one thing is for sure - poly are easier to fit and replace! BUT beware cheap poly bushes are  the worst of the bunch - wear out fast, poor ride etc. So if you opt for poly replacements choose a reputable brand (I always go for SuperFlex or SuperPro, but they ain't cheap!) For the record, with regard to my original question above.... I contacted SuperFlex and got this response: "Our PU bushes are inherently weather resistant, so require no dust shields etc"
  16. yorkshire_spam
    Raider wrote:Looking forward to Tebay  :) Although it's our first RBRR I have fond memories of Tebay services (both the main ones and the truck stop next to the village itself) Great food! Never get tired of the view coming over Shap summit.
  17. yorkshire_spam

    SPECIAL TOOL

    yorkshire_spam replied to GT6 M's topic in General

    Hooks into bumper?
  18. yorkshire_spam
    So if I fit rear poly (SuperFlex) which bits from the ordinary trunion bush kit do I need? (If any?) I'm wondering about parts like 141444, 141443 and 141185 Does the poly version do away with all these? Cheers, Sam
  19. yorkshire_spam
    Great stuff!
  20. yorkshire_spam
    Yeah, we love plenty of pictures and project updates! Hope that completion takes you less then 18 yrs!
  21. yorkshire_spam
    michael_charlton wrote: I average around 70 between the Bradford outskirts and the BP garage at Crosshills......Keighley gets in the way :P We take the slower but more scenic route over the tops from Haworth through Stanbury..... lucky if you average 40 on that road!
  22. yorkshire_spam
    Thanks guys! Just need to figure out where I can go to safely bed them in, Bainzy's suggestion of the Aire valley trunk road might be a good one! Mike - I don't think I'd hit 70mph even once on the way over to the OST... let alone 6 or 7 times! ;)
  23. yorkshire_spam
    New pads arrived in the post, the box contains 4 pads (as expected) but also what look like some sort of anti-squeel stick on   pads. Should these be stuck to the backs of the pads before fitting? Should they be fitted with or without the "normal" anti-squeel shims? I've got the bedding in instructions: 2) Following initial brake test start with 3 – 4 light applications from 30mph down to 0mph. After these, follow the steps below according to Material. M1144: 6 / 7 medium pressure applications 70mph down to 30mph I take it this means "brake from 70 to 30 using medium pressure, repeat 6 or 7 times" NOT "brake from 70 to 30 by applying the brake 6 or 7 times"
  24. yorkshire_spam
    The valve in the butterfly is a small spring loaded thingy. It's supposed to be some sort of anti-stall thing from what I hear. If you have chance, get rid!
  25. yorkshire_spam

    Seatbelts

    yorkshire_spam replied to philheys100's topic in Body

    I'd find the securon part number that matches your requirements and buy new. That's what I did when I wanted an inertia belt instead of a lap belt for the centre seats in a Land Rover. http://www.securon.co.uk/seatbelts_layouts.htm Once you have the securon P/N they can be sourced relatively cheaply via places on the net.
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