yorkshire_spam
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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam
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Sorry for some reason my tiny brain missed the fact that we were talking about a mk III. DOH!
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I got "tkc3417 fuel pump spacer block type 1500 late" from James Paddock last year and it looked pretty similar to the pump I had fitted. I swapped them over before the RBRR so that the old known good pump was in reserve. You've got me wondering now if I need to remove the new pump and check for cam wear.
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I bent a cheap bearing splitter trying to get mine off, eventually I destroyed the bearing (smashed outer race, removed balls, ground and split inner race) and replaced it. IIRC they are 6205C3 bearings - about 7ukp around here, so I wasn't that bothered. If you take the front flange off, mark the nut first,mark the flange and casing and re-assemble to same marks - no need to be messing around with that stupid spacer unless you want to strip and replace pinion bearings etc.
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Only one I know of is on the top cover of the box itself.
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Thanks guys, looks like it's going to be worth going for. Cheers, Sam
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I've tried searching, but can't find anything on here (although I'm sure that's my incompetence, not that it's never been discussed) What are the differences between a YC prefix engine and an FM prefix? I understand the YC prefix is 1500 rwd or Dolomite? I've been offered a YC engine to either swap into the 1500 Spit, or as the basis of a rebuild (depending on a few factors) Cheers, Sam
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Looking really good, I hope when I get to do my engine it looks half as good!
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Spitfire is off the road at the moment, no MOT and the diff is still on the bench. There's a few jobs for the MOT, like the horn not working and some brake pipes to replace. Once it's MOT'd I'll be fitting the oil cooler and maybe a centre resonator on the exhaust to tone it down a bit (it was a bit too much on the RBRR) Then I'll tidy up the bodywork/paint.
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IIRC I did mine by: 1) Remove short tunnel section (3 self tappers) 2) disconnect front of propshaft from OD output 3) Jack back end up, disconnect rear of prop 4) Prop back+down to make room 5) remove output flange 6) use slide hammer to remove seal 7) push in new seal 8) clean+refit output flange 9) prop back on 10) short tunnel section back in. But that's from memory, I may have had the full gearbox/tunnel cover out at the time - I can't remember.
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For taper roller bearings the prefix is the rating (I think) but I can't find KLM for Timken.... Just FAG. The reference I have says that "light/medium" for NSK/SKF/Timken = LM, but KLM for FAG. At a guess I'd say the C is the bearing class.(http://www.timken.co.uk/en-us/solutions/machinetools/Pages/BearingPrecisionLevels.aspx)
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34 wrote:Sorry Very thick about oil , so what is good . Duckhams 20/50 . How much do you want to spend? Comma classic 20w50 is fine for general motoring with regular oil changes. OTOH if you plan on track use or "big" runs (10CR/RBRR) you might want to invest in Penrite or Valvoline VR1? Edit: Previous debate..... Sorry , link no longer available
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IIRC I got those 3 parts as a kit from a mini-spares place or something? Not sure 100% sure though.
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Managed to extract £58 from my employer as a match (partial) contribution. But they paid it direct to Macmillan (So is not visible in mine or the club's figures)
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Diff has virtually NO backlash, everything inside feels good. Wondering if they are "left overs" from a not-so-diligent rebuild in the past? I'll double double double check the planet gears though. @Ferny - I'd have gone for a grey (mid/light) if I could get decent paint in that colour - but I wanna see the oil leaks so it's not going to be black that's for sure!
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Found these inside the diff.... Any ideas? Look like bits of brass shim/bearing to me....
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Anyone wanna express an opinion on whether it's worth fitting one to my Spit 1500 prior to 2015 10CR?
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I'd be betting that changing that bearing is a job with the OD off and out on the bench. Can't see how you'd get it out without removing the rear OD casing from the OD.
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Hi Wim, I think it's a SKF 6206 (30/62/16mm), but not 100% sure at the moment - AKA 465515 AKA SPG75G Maybe have a quick google and see if you can confirm? (Quality branded ones over here = about ukp 5) Regards, Sam
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6205... my mistake! (6502 is an 8 bit microprocessor!DOH!)
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Just FYI.... the bearings are not that expensive, even for quality like SKF 6502 (3.71+vat incl delivery from qualitybearingsonline) My splitter/puller couldn't get hold behind the bearing, so I smashed the outer race and then ground the inner down and split it with a chisel (wearing appropriate eye protection obviously!)
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I had to destroy the bearings to get them off the shafts on mine. I bent the bearing splitter/puller trying.
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Who is entering the 10CR this coming November?
yorkshire_spam replied to Tim Bancroft's topic in Ten Countries Run (10CR)
Looks like Andie and I made the list! :) -
Looking good Wim!
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I'm hearing that SKF have discontinued it, so the only ones available are NOS from stockists that have some left over. :-/ So it's looking like the choices are: 120ukp+vat for 2 bearings to rebuild the box with quality bearings. 80ukp for the "kit" to rebuild with shonky bearings.
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michael_charlton wrote:Try these people,if they do...contact me and we can get discounts through the usual supplier http://www.brt-bearings.com/location_doncaster.html (Not the Triumph part number...just the SKF) Will do, thanks Mike.
