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yorkshire_spam

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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam

  1. yorkshire_spam
    110 defender the worst I've had, with the SIII SWB a not too distant second
  2. yorkshire_spam
    Sounds normal for a Spit,  ridiculously tight turning circle
  3. yorkshire_spam
    We had to book the dog sitter as soon as we found out our entry was confirmed!
  4. yorkshire_spam
    We had to book the dog sitter as soon as we found out our entry was confirmed!
  5. yorkshire_spam
    Car drove a lot better this morning when 2up. Thanks for the advice guys.
  6. yorkshire_spam
    Final tighten was with car on the deck. I'll loosen off and retighten though just to make sure I hadn't got em too tight with it up in the air. Car drives fine, but back end feels a lot friskier in corners, used to drive like it was on rails! Will see about alignment once I decide whether or not it's getting a lowering block. Cheers, Sam
  7. yorkshire_spam
    No lowering block at the moment, handling is terrible in the corners, it sits a lot higher with the new spring. I guess the old spring gave good ride height and handling, but not much in the way of "spring"!
  8. yorkshire_spam
    Done about 70 miles since changing the rear spring. The ride quality is massively improved but the handling is scarily bad. (Yes I know the left exhaust pipe is wonky) Do you guys think it'll settle further and improve the handling or should I just order a 1" lowering block and get on with fitting it?
  9. yorkshire_spam
    I have black ones from paddocks on mine, only been on 6 months, but seem fine so far.
  10. yorkshire_spam
    Locating the countershaft in both ends of the casing can be a sod of a job even with the box out on the bench. The shaft goes through the back of the case, a "washer", the lay cluster, another "washer", then the front of the case. Getting it back through with the 'box still in the motor would be tricky, you'd need to find a way to lift the front end of the shaft. The only way to do it I can think of would be to take the top off the box and try and get something like a length of mig wire under/around the  front of the lay cluster, lift, hope it all lines up and then push the counter shaft from the back. When all's said and done, you might find it less time and effort to get the 'box out, remove the bell housing and do it that way?
  11. yorkshire_spam
    countershaft should float back/forward,hope it hasn't dropped out of the front of the gearbox casing!
  12. yorkshire_spam
    Think Wimpus has just done this job on his - photos are on his thread in this section IIRC
  13. yorkshire_spam
    Do you have a wiring diagram? I've selectively replaced individual wires in the Spitfire loom to up-rate or lengthen (but not because of melting!) - it's a lot of work, but IMHO worth it. The big issue is why it melted in the first place?! If possible, remove all fuses and switch everything off. Stick a high current ammeter in the battery feed line, re-add fuses and look for a sudden spike in current? That ought to get you started in tracing the fault?
  14. yorkshire_spam
    Yes.... Lights rocker = Off, side, head (small light, centre, large light) as you say. Stalk (IIRC) = forward for full beam on (latched), middle for "no full beam" , pull toward driver for "flash full beam" (non-latching position)
  15. yorkshire_spam
    The main issue is the single rail selector assembly. Made of unobtainium. Look at between 200 and 300 quid for a box+OD, mount, prop etc may or may not be included at that sort of money. New mainshaft to swap a non-od single rail to OD will be about 120ukp, then you have the "adapter" about 40ukp used.... add in the cost of the OD, prop etc and it's gonna be cheaper just to buy a complete set together if you can.
  16. yorkshire_spam
    3 leg pullers have a habit of bending the hub..... Check yours is ok before you use it.
  17. yorkshire_spam
    A couple on UK eBay at the moment, not cheap though! If you were local you could borrow mine, but as it is the postage would probably cost you more than buying one!
  18. yorkshire_spam
    What a fantastic,  generous offer! The spirit of Ct!
  19. yorkshire_spam
    michael_charlton wrote: Ditto for ourselves No 3 :) Just spoken to Dane and book 12:00 outbound and 14:00 return. :) Nice work Mike!
  20. yorkshire_spam
    Nice one Mike! We appreciate the massive amount of effort you have clearly put in on this! I'll buy you a drink at P+P tonight!
  21. yorkshire_spam
    I welded an old land rover wheel nut (cut in half) to mine to get it out.
  22. yorkshire_spam
    Not sure which box, but when I stripped a single rail for the spitfire I did the following: drop the layshaft cluster into the bottom of the box tap the input shaft forward out of the box. Gently (do not damage!) drive the mainshaft through the rear bearing until you have about 1/2" gap between the 1st gear and the bearing. Put a "spacer" between the bearing and the 1st gear and push back the other way (gentle taps with plastic/copper hammer!) until the bearing "pops" out of the back of the casing. Wedge the bearing on the case and GENTLY tap the shaft through the bearing until the bearing is free. Remove bearing Lift mainshaft up through top of box with gears/selectors on it. All of the above is probably 100% WRONG and is certainly NOT how it's described in the workshop manual. But then I don't have all the "required" special tools.
  23. yorkshire_spam
    I'm a tight fisted Yorkshireman and to be honest the only reason I would source trim from anywhere other than Park Lane is if Park Lane didn't make what I needed!
  24. yorkshire_spam
    I would be more worried about tightening the pinion nut back to where it was before rather than the torque - do it back up tight, but don't take it any further and crush the spacer more than it already is -unless you want to have to set the pre-load etc etc.... and if you are going to do that you'll want to start with a new spacer. Don't mix up the tightening torque with the pre-load torque!
  25. yorkshire_spam
    4526 wrote:Got the bearing off the shaft ! (dance) destroyed the bearing first and then grounded the center down until i could brake it  :) Sounds familiar Wim :-) You got bits like this now?
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