yorkshire_spam
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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam
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So 148 hp/243 lb·ft is gonna be right on the limit (or well over it it torque terms) Hmmmm
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Out of idle curiosity, what do you recon the limits are in terms of torque / hp for a standard 2000 diff? (and driveshafts)
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Although a quick search suggests they may be NPT? So ignore my guesses!
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I'd guess it's a tapered BSP thread, but don't know for sure.
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To avoid rotting flexibles I imported some decent quality true 1/4" stuff from the USA. (Gates 27313) No good under EFI type pressures, but fine for carb systems: http://www.gates.com/products/.....etion-fuel-line-hose
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IIRC Mik Davies has "plastic" windows on his racing Spitfire John, might be worth pinging him about it?
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Exactly why I use lrdirect - you make your choice. From personal experience I wouldn't buy Britpart. I tend to find all-makes and bearmach quality good and very good VFM. For heavy duty parts (like a UJ) I'd be prepared to spend on GKN or Hardy Spicer. For wheel studs (for the spitfire) I stuck to allmakes as they had the correct chamfer on the head to match the triumph hubs. (CLP9037L)
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Choice of different brands/quality.... https://www.lrdirect.com/TVF100000-Universal-Joint/?sfi=TVF100000&keep_https=yes
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On our one and only RBRR (2014) Gordano had to be the "low point" - BUT the boost in morale of seeing the CT banner on the fence coming down the slip-road and being greeted by a few die-hard CT members as we pulled in was amazing.
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I find one of these (assuming it's 1/2" square) handy for this sort of thing: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-king-dick-screw-jack-ratchet-handle-jaguar-toolkit-/351537212885
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When mine had a stuck sump plug I took the risk and put an oversized half nut over the sump plug and then welded the two together, that gave a good sized hex for me to use to unfasten it. Obviously that meant I had to replace the sump plug. And you have to be careful not to set fire to anything!
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If it ran very lean it could have burn out the valves? Compression test time?
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Oh and if you stuck on the carb end of the vac pipe does the mechanism in the dizzy move?
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Another thought... No sticking pistons in the carbs? Are they rising/falling ok as the throttle opens and closes?
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Hey Ben! How's things? Sort your cam timing out mate and rule that out of the equation. Check your TDC marker, print off a giant protractor and then check that the valves on no. 1 are opening/closing at the right points. You don't mention (that I can see) changing plug leads? Also - carbs in balance and (roughly) even in mixture terms?
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If they are su hs3/hs4 the locating ring is plastic and can allow movement even if the bolt is tight.
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Powerspark points replacement fitted to my 1500 Spitfire has done the rbrr and 10cr without any problems, still got a set of points in the boot "just in case" though.
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Last week was a total nightmare at work, some late nights/early mornings, so I haven't had anything like the prep time I was expecting. (I didn't even get to the P+P monthly meeting on friday... finished work around 11:30pm!) Oh well. It starts, goes and stops. That'll do!
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Got stick on ones, but no idea how they are supposed to fit in relation to the lamp lens etc.
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Engine built, Engine in, engine being tested each day. (With lots of help from Mik D!)
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Yeah I think so.
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Tr5/tr6 pi?
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At the moment (after my little "issue" on the Border Raiders) my to-do list is: 1) Build engine 2) Fit engine 3) Test engine
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I had a similar ride issue with a saggy rear spring, I now have the opposite issue with a new spring causing opposite camber and too high a ride height.
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Gearbox mainshaft to be changed as well I think.
