Jump to content

yorkshire_spam

Club Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,583

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    39

 Content Type 

Everything posted by yorkshire_spam

  1. yorkshire_spam
    No back up. (Only 1 Triumph in the household) So it's the Spitfire 1500 for us! Since it's only just back on the road after a 10 month break I'll just be running it as much as possible to work the gremlins out. I hope I get time to fit the oil cooler that I bought planning to fit for the 2015 10CR (but never had time) If I come into some money then new shocks all round! (but probably not!)
  2. yorkshire_spam
    Probably. The Bearmach stuff is generally ok. Britpart? no thanks. Can't tell you if the land rover branded stuff is any good - I can never afford it! 😉 (one of the reasons I use that website is that you get to choose which brand you buy)
  3. yorkshire_spam
    I wonder if the metal bodied Land Rover ones would fit? https://www.lrdirect.com/575166-Stop-Rev-Light-Switch-Ser3-Servo/?keep_https=yes (Just eye-balling it suggests it's probably the wrong thread?)
  4. yorkshire_spam
    Sent ours first class post this morning.
  5. yorkshire_spam
    Discussed it with Andie - we're in!
  6. yorkshire_spam
    Thanks Ellis - that's what I get for not reading things properly! You miss the obvious!
  7. yorkshire_spam
    Any idea when the mag will be available online? My snailmail delivery usually lags behind everyone else - so I was gonna print it from the PDF and get it posted.
  8. yorkshire_spam
    There's a number of possibilities, blocked filter, piston adjustment, solenoid adjustment. http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/the-d-type-overdrive/ I guess the "cheapness" of the solution depends a bit on how much you can DIY? If you can't repair/adjust yourself you probably should talk to somebody like Mike Papworth about an exchange recon unit (assuming you could fit it?)
  9. yorkshire_spam
    16mm^2 is about 110amps, not sure I'd be comfortable with something that size on an alternator with that rating.
  10. yorkshire_spam
    I'd go for something like a 196/0.40 (25mm sq) cable - typical rating is about 170 amps. But I'm not an expert!
  11. yorkshire_spam
    I use these to get rid or gasket: http://www.screwfix.com/p/surf.....-3_c8CFQaVGwod254DHg
  12. yorkshire_spam
    I agree,  it totally isn't.
  13. yorkshire_spam
    On the spitfire engine I welded nuts onto the stuck studs in order to extract the studs (as Clive suggests above) - then replaced the full set with ARP studs. Not pretty, but it worked.
  14. yorkshire_spam
    How is it possible? Depends on how it's wired John, but if the earths are joined, and the feed to 1 lamp is a few volts below the feed to the other then there's a small (couple of volts?) PD, so they'll be on but VERY dim.
  15. yorkshire_spam
    Andie and I are thinking of the overnight ferry from Hull on Monday night, potter around Belgium on Tuesday, stay nr Ypres so we can do the Menin gate ceremony again. Then an early blast down to Lille on the Wednesday morning. The plan of no night driving suits us - after last year we agreed we'd do that whether or not it was the "official" plan.
  16. yorkshire_spam
    Radders - probably something you already know/checked - I've had an issue in the past when refilling the gearbox on a slight slope that the oil didn't make it's way into the OD, and when it did the level was too low to allow proper operation of the OD. Before you go much further is it worth over filling the GB oil (only by a small amount) running it and trying to engage OD and then re-checking the level (and maybe letting a little oil back out to get back to true level?)
  17. yorkshire_spam
    In 2014 we made good time between Morrisons garage and Tebay and managed to stop for a rest at some services around Gretna area, we were still early getting in to Tebay. But that really set us up for the run down to Lands End. Make time where you can (safely!), but take every opportunity to rest and recover!
  18. yorkshire_spam
    Simon, First time I re-fitted a gearbox I had a b1tch of a job getting it to mate with the engine on the Spit, I spent ages jiggling the engine and box up and down and rotating things to try and get them to slide together. Hang in there, take it steady and DON'T FORCE it - all of a sudden it'll just thunk together. I ended up with a plank on a jack with the engine on one end and the 'box on the other - that seemed to help. Regards, Sam
  19. yorkshire_spam

    Carb ID

    yorkshire_spam replied to Kyp's topic in Engine

    Look like standard HS4 in the photos to me.
  20. yorkshire_spam
    It was a great piece of kit in a nice sturdy metal box - but the bridge parts seemed to have a casting weakness, which was a shame. Especially since they were about 15 quid each from Sykes for the replacements. In the end I bought a new bridge and shoved it on ebay to get rid.
  21. yorkshire_spam
    A quick word of warning to those picking up quality second hand flare tools - I had a MK1 Sykes Flaremaster and it was fantastic to use BUT the "bridge" section shattered, as did the replacement I got from Sykes - no idea if they cured it for the MK2 though.
  22. yorkshire_spam
    I've got a sealey horse-shoe type that I used in an emergency years ago - I'm thinking of chucking it in the bin,  don't think I could even give it away with a clear conscience. Piece of crap.
  23. yorkshire_spam
    I agree, I only keep my sykes kit "in reserve" these days, haven't used it in yonks because the type you linked to works so well.
  24. yorkshire_spam
    How old is the oil? What type? Has it been in for HARD HOT driving? It's possible the oil is past it's best. (the "ok when cold, not when hot" made me think this) It's also possible (but not likely) that the pressure sender is at fault.
  25. yorkshire_spam
    Strombergs or SU's?
×
×
  • Create New...