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yorkshire_spam

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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam

  1. yorkshire_spam
    I'm running 5.5J x 13" JBW Minilight so they are wider than most standard, but the offset should be similar. I'm going to crack open the OS and see what they are like. If both sides are not right then I suspect it's not a "one off bad bearing". Don't get me wrong, the estimated 8K miles haven't been all easy pottering around, that's 2x10CR and an RBRR on those bearings. I just wouldn't expect RHP bearings to fail in that time without some outside influence.
  2. yorkshire_spam
    Thanks Mike
  3. yorkshire_spam
    Hi All, I've just stripped down my NSR axle and found the larger outer bearing (GHB117/LJ1/RLS a bit "notchy" It's also clear form the grease (colour and smell!) that it's been getting hot. Plenty of grease in the assembly and no obvious signs of muck getting in or anything like that. Obviously I'll replace the bearings, but I'm wondering why it's got like this, any ideas? It's a good quality RHP bearing that's done about 8K miles. Have I hit a pot-hole too hard? Could suspension/upright wear be an issue? Something with the diff amiss? Or "just one of those things" ? Thoughts? Cheers, Sam
  4. yorkshire_spam
    I think this is why people are talking about being on the reserve list:
  5. yorkshire_spam
    Do you have to expand/stretch the tension springs?
  6. yorkshire_spam
    Do the springs galvanize ok?
  7. yorkshire_spam
    And looking closely at RKC634 the overdrive adapter casing, there's clearly a recess in the face for the snap ring, so even if the input shaft bearing can move forward the output shaft bearing is going stay where it should. Oh well, probably a non-starter.
  8. yorkshire_spam
    I thought that too, but I can't see how the bearings could move into the box (due to the internals) and they certainly don't stop the front bearing being pushed out (as I could clearly see on my box when the circlip snapped - the front bearing was pushed about 3mm forwards. I'm wondering if blocking the outer race against the bell housing/tail casing might be possible and serve the same purpose without needing the snap rings. You could quite easily be right though - it could be a VERY stupid idea. I'd also wondered about taper roller bearings.... but that's another story!
  9. yorkshire_spam
    Hi all, Wimpus' recent gearbox related activities have got me thinking. The RMS8NR/MJ1NR/MS10K - pn 104433 input and output shaft bearings are getting harder and more expensive to source. Current best prices I can manage are around 15 quid per bearing for "European budget quality" or between 30 and 35 quid per bearing for good named brand (SKF/FAG/STEYR etc.) Which got me wondering.... what purpose does the snap-ring serve? Since the corresponding RMS8/MJ1/MS10 bearings are easier and cheaper to source. Is it there for location or retention? Cheers, Sam
  10. yorkshire_spam
    Nope, a Defender 110 CSW mostly road use, light use on farm tracks. The quality of the eBay bushes was shocking, they just fell apart. For land rover after that I used SuperPro - similar quality to the SuperFlex from what I can tell.
  11. yorkshire_spam
    Original polybush are ok. Personally I'd only use SuperFlex if they are available. I tried eBay specials and Br*tpart on my old Land Rover, but they fell apart in a matter of months.
  12. yorkshire_spam
    It does look like a job type with the adapter and mainshaft to suit a Spitfire/single rail box.
  13. yorkshire_spam
    Be aware that the bolts themselves are stepped with a wider than usual shank - and as such are made of unobtainium. (I'm passing on the very helpful warning that Clive Senior gave me at the time!) (
  14. yorkshire_spam
    I gave up trying to repair my one with the splayed bolts and asked Spitfire Graveyard to send me one with the lock wire (which they did at a reasonable price) which I then re-bushed with polybushes.
  15. yorkshire_spam
    Coming along nicely! You'll have it on the road in no time at this rate.
  16. yorkshire_spam
    I had to utterly destroy the bearings to get them off the shafts when I did the seals on mine!
  17. yorkshire_spam
    1 1/8" is 28.575mm and for some reason I have one of those in my tool box.
  18. yorkshire_spam
    Hmmm non-standard head size... 1 1/16" maybe? Sorry I don't know for sure.
  19. yorkshire_spam
    I'm not certain... I think the nut is 5/8 which would make the spanner/socket 15/16". So 24mm might fit if I'm right. I'd need to check though.
  20. yorkshire_spam
    Good result on the MOT, the fuel pump is an annoyance though. I keep a "known good" (not new!) spare in the boot of the Spitfire.
  21. yorkshire_spam
    Having them on my Spit really made a difference to my confidence on runs like the 10CR, very happy with them and would recommend them to anyone.... but with all the additional parts you'd need to fit them on the Herald vs what you could get for them on here or ebay set against the cost of a brand new herald/spit set.... I'd be considering it as an option.
  22. yorkshire_spam
    Flog the gt6 kit to somebody and buy the herald/spit version? Sounds like less hassle to me.
  23. yorkshire_spam
    Looking good Mr B!
  24. yorkshire_spam
    I wonder if they have routed the back of the dash panel, or found switches with longer threaded sections?
  25. yorkshire_spam
    Something like these? http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/2-way-toggle-switches.html
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