yorkshire_spam

Unlike sites like twitter facebook don't make it easy for you to embed "their" content in "your" website.  

All I can say is that we did the 2015 10CR in the 1500 Spitfire without an oil cooler and when I did an oil change shortly after the event the valvoline vr1 I'd put in before the event was spent. Really nasty. I can't really do a like-for-like comparison as a broken pressure switch led to a full "oil change" half way through the 2017 10CR (it pee'd it all out over the course of day 2)... so you'll have to wait until after the 2019 event to see if my cooler (with thermostatic valve in the take-off plate) has made a difference.  

I think today's defibrillator debacle is indicative of the "Facebook experience"

+1 for trunionless... when my MOT man found "slight lift" in one of the Spitfire trunnions in 2015 I switched over. Gave us more confidence on runs like the 10CR (and reduced the amount of just-in-case spares in the boot)

I'll post a "proper" list closer to the time as I finalise what we are taking, but so far we have: Tools: Imperial combination spanner set. Imperial+metric small socket set (1/4" drive) Imperial socket set. (1/2" drive) Torque wrench (1/2" drive) Screwdrivers Wire cutter/crimp tool Stromberg carb adjuster Hammer, chisel, drift Large adjustable spanner Tow rope Spares: Dizzy cap, points, condensor to suit 1850 Dolomite distributor HT Leads Jubilee clips, petrol hose clips Lengths of water hose Lengths of petrol hose Scotchlocks, lengths of wire, crimp connectors Bulbs: H4 + "standard 70s selection" Various 1850 gaskets (inlet manifold, thermostat housing etc.) To be continued.... Consumables: 20w50 engine oil AQF automatic gearbox oil EP90 gear oil Water Petrol Instant gasket/RTV compound Safety: Fire extinguisher Hi-vis vests Torch Warning Triangle We'll be running our 1973 Dolomite (1850 engine) so if anyone has any suggestions for extending the spares list I'm listening!

Operation "stop the wobble" continues on Binny the Dolomite. All I could hear on the Border Raiders was the mud flaps scraping as we cornered. Not having that on the RBRR.

I sourced a load of ford m12 nuts suitable for the steels, different taper etc. I think they were either focus or Mondeo, it's a long while ago though. I'll check back through my paperwork and see if I can find specifically which they are.

I have an electric fan on the Dolomite 1850, the sensor is in the top hose and it's a revotec kit. It seems to work ok. (But I've had the car for less than a year... so no long term conclusions yet) The controller on mine is adjustable, I think it comes in at about 90 deg at the moment. (quite low as the settings are 70 to 120)

That's rotten luck Pete, hope it doesn't put you off the event! So who's doing an event write up for Club Torque? ;-) Cheers, Sam

<chortle> that's gonna get you into trouble! I was going to ask how you got on getting home, good luck finding the root-cause of the cutting out problem.

What a great event! A real credit to the organisers. Well done chaps!

Viel Erfolg. It is worth checking the pipes/hoses first as Theo says.

Maybe it's time to start putting the car back together instead of taking it (more) apart?

Not sure about the TR7, but the gasket on the 1850 water pump needs to be "set" to the right thickness, it's not just for sealing it's for spacing as well. My 1850 head came off ok, I used the "2 nuts" technique to get the studs out. 1 stud had the thread damaged by the removal and had to be replaced.  

Does the tr7 head have a water way at the back of that gasket you have in the pictures? On the Dolomite 1850 head there is one there and it's difficult to get it to seal - resulting in coolant on the top of the block like your pictures.

Sounds like (as Rob says) you have something blocking the valve OR a pump that delivers too much pressure.

Hi Ken,  It's been "quiet" round here since they "upgraded" the forum.  Nice to hear Martin's old car is alive and kicking, I still can't believe he's gone. Do you mean 2019 10CR for Joe? 2018 = RBRR, 2019 = 10CR, 2020 = RBRR, 2021 = 10CR... etc. Cheers, Sam

If you want it "right".... get some second hand frames from somewhere like Spitfire Graveyard and then spend ££££ at Park Lane Classics (Owen's kit is top notch) and put new foams/covers on them. As good as (if not better than) new. Won't be a cheap option though

I had a similar issue on my Spitfire, after the 2015 10CR I had ringing in my ears. Instead of replacing the small twin back-boxes I added a resonator to the centre section. It's not a LOT quieter, but it's taken the edge off so that it's not uncomfortable on long runs.

"Same" suggestion? 

Sounds like progress (of sorts). I found finding the parts (shims and thrust washers) really tricky, nowhere seemed to have anything like the selection that's listed n the parts book.

Thickest shims on the outside, thinner ones sandwiches between the races and the thick outer shim.

Gulp! But you need all the shims to give the correct bearing preload dont you? Sorry, didn't explain myself very well. What I meant was that it's possible to slide the carrier, races and shims all in together using the technique shown in the video and end up with too much pre-load (in my case once the caps were added it was almost locked solid!) By removing and re-arranging the shims (which I didn't have a wide selection of, just the originals and a load of 0.003" ones from moss) I was able to get the right pre-load AND the right lash in the mesh between the pinion and crownwheel. In the end this ended up being less total shim thickness than the original shims. I didn't mean I fitted it without shims, or that I lost some sliding it in and just left it like that.

That's the video I followed. I found it was possible to actually get the carrier+bearing races back in without spreading the casing with too many shims. With some removed it wasn't a problem, just takes some jiggling to get it all in without losing a shim or two.

Ahhh that thing.  I found a nail almost the same diameter and cut the end flat and used that to drive the little beggar out