yorkshire_spam

Result!

My Dolomite 1850 runs without the mechanical fan with only the electric one. It cools just fine. I think in most cases squeezing BOTH in the space available would be a problem, pretty sure standard practice is one or the other, not both.

Great result @TOM Fisher and thanks for taking the trouble to report back so people know the outcome!

I found 2 of the thinner plates one measured 2.28mm and the other 1.65mm

I'm fettling the starter for our 1850 and most of the threads/nuts/bolts seem to be metric, BUT the long studs that go all the way through the case, threaded into the front alloy part and retained at the back of the rear alloy part with 2 nuts is evading me. The male thread seems to have a major diameter or 6.7mm / 0.26" and is pretty close to 1mm pitch / 25tpi To start with I thought it was M7... nope. It pretty much matches the "pattern" of BA threads but is larger than BA0 I can't see a whitworth thread that would match, It's not a million miles off 9/32 BSC.... Does anyone actually know what thread it is? Before I started trying to match it my money was on either metric or BA 😞 For "clarity" my starter has threaded studs in place of the parts marked RTC839 in this diagram:

Cost, building a whole epicyclic 2 speed gearbox just to add effectively a 5th gear... wow, that's a lot more money than just a few extra bits in a manual box (never mind all the added wiring etc.) For any motor using an OD... GOOD QUALITY EP90 GL4 compatible gear oil. Regular changes. Maybe think about modified wiring so that fuse/relay can be added for safety and confidence. (If using stick selector switch they can fray/chaff through!)

I thought we were talking about how we tighten the "slotted" nuts on these type of switches?

I run a J-Type in my 1500 Spitfire and occasionally there's a slight delay to engage, but to be honest you'll just be so happy at having an overdrive the minor differences of A/D/J/P type probably won't bother you! Some of these vehicles actually have "old fashioned" automatic gearboxes, but the paddles allow the user to select rather than the ECU automatically selecting via the solenoids etc. It's a manually selected, epicyclic gear train, hydraulically operated system 🙂

I've seen people use plastic tube of the appropriate diameter with part cut back to leave 2 "pegs" to engage the slots in the nut. I believe it's also possible to use the tool common to guitars? Like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303851978672 but need to check the dimensions. Or if you have deeper pockets... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222809811801

ROO639K? http://cook1e.blogspot.com/2014/10/team-flying-log-complete-round-britain.html

Hmmm, that being the case I might just make a run over rather than trying to arrange something separate! I hadn't seen anything on here/faceache regarding their meetings being active... a bit reluctant to make the trip and find I'm billy-no-mates in the chippy on my own!

Nice work @RobPearce I went the "cowards route" and cut the front part off a usable second hand wing. I know reproducing the whole wing is a massive no-no from a press tools point of view, but I wonder if the nose section you fabricated could be pressed?

If yours is 4 main + 2 locators sounds like you need the "6 hole" version? I'll check the thickness of the plate on the right for you, feels like it might be stainless or another "hard" steel.

I've been well jealous of that kettle kit ever since I first saw that photo. I'm gonna have to get one!

2 Completed 10CR in the Spitfire, so we've decided to try something different this time around and take the Dolomite (subject to me putting it back together and painting it before then!)

Sorry @Jason C I don't honestly know - my experience is Dolomite and Spitfire based. IIRC on the Spitfire between the tank and the long fixed pipe along the chassis is a short section of 5/16" bore and everything at the front end is 1/4". OTOH pretty much all of the pipes are 5/16" bore on the Dolomite (1850).

Are these the parts in question? Is yours the 6 or 8 bolt version? Not sure if the spares I have are big saloon or Dolomite... or even if there's any difference.

I'm using the carb variety and it's true 1/4" and 5/16" bore, so never had any issues with fit on the pipework (provided appropriate clips are used)

I've been using Barricade since 2015 - never had any issues at all with it. I imported it from the US when I found that the "so called" R9 available in the uk had a lifespan measured in weeks, frankly I think that trash is lethal.

If I can find a spare I'll measure it for you, if that's any help?

Still not sure what gearbox you have.... so this might not be good advice! On the 'box I've worked on recently I managed to get the tip of at thin small flat bladed screwdriver between the "bung" that the speedo drive runs through and the case and pry it out far enough to get a bigger flat bladed driver in... "wiggle it out" is a bit like the old haynes "withdraw bolt from housing" (an hour later it's still not out after being brayed with a sledge hammer!) - easier said than done!

Deepest Condolences. It is a source of un-alloyed joy to me that I don't have anything to do with public facing web based user interfaces any more. The only time I've ever been confident that a UI functioned as expected on a large range of devices/form factors was when we paid a porting house in china to physically test literally hundreds of devices and tweak the css/html to suit. Never again.

There doesn't seem to be much going on with the local groups in my area at the moment as far as I can see - no monthly meetings at P+P and not sure if Hull are running or not? Does anyone fancy a one-off impromptu meeting somewhere along the M62 "corridor"? I was thinking an evening pub meet somewhere close to Jn26/27/28/29 on the M62 ? Somewhere like this maybe? https://goo.gl/maps/ByQGqu3Lzibf85dx6

Depending on the gearbox there are a number of speedo drive gears available with different numbers of teeth - these can be used to improve a % error. Eg. if it's under reading by 10% and currently has a 22 tooth drive gear then switching to a 20 tooth drive gear should get it pretty close. To correct a fixed "offset error" (ie always reads a fixed number of mph above/below) then adjusting the needle position is the way forward. I'm not familiar with the TR7 V8 gearbox, is it an LT77 or an R380? (Or another?)

I'll happily go out with a thick coat and a hat on and the roof down (I've driven back from P+P at night in winter with the roof down!), my good lady wife on the other hand has a clear idea of what constitutes "Spitfire Weather" and what doesn't. 🙂