yorkshire_spam

You might be able to wangle the drive shaft out with the slave cylinder and back plate still attached to the flexible. (but you'd need a driveshaft puller) You might even manage to do the job with the shaft still on the car, but that would be a huge faff and you'd need to work underneath. I'd clamp the flexible and pull the whole lot off and do the job on the bench...

I quite like the chrome/black door mirrors on the Mk IV and 1500, the rectangular ones (Photo from Google, not my car!) When I replaced mine I got it from James Paddocks : gam213a https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/door-mirror-polished-rh-2 / gma214a https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/door-mirror-polished-lh-11 You can probably get pairs the same/similar cheaper from somewhere on the interwebs? Welcome to the forum!

So... if you take the tops of the SU carbs (dome, piston and needle) and look down from the top... You should see the "bridge" the raised section in the bore of the carb, with a circular hole in the middle. Inside the hole, flush with the bridge you should see the top of the "jet bearing" (the bit the jet slides up and down in) and inside that you should see the top of the jet itself. There should be a measurable height difference between the jet bearings (flush with the bridge) and the jet: I've used the "tail" of a vernier caliper in the past to check it - it takes a bit of care AND you need to make sure the choke is fully home and the jets are fully raised (not by you touching them! By the action of the return mechanism) before measuring. On this stolen image you can see the bridge and jet bearing, but the jet is not fitted:

Already looking forward to it! Just need to put the Dolomite back together.

I'm going to fight them on the cancellation fee but I don't hold out much hope against a company prepared to act like that. Might even file in the small claims if I don't get anywhere and I have the time/energy.

Lost out cancelling the P&O ticket, but now booked with DFDS from Newcastle.

The Dolomite (1850) copes fine with the electric fan - but it's an Auto! It idles smoothly even though the revs do drop slightly.

Great project! Keep us posted on progress with plenty of photos!

You won't regret it - it's a club with something for everyone no matter how you want to enjoy Triumph-ing.

Good idea, I've had a look but I can't seem to get a return on the 11th. 😞 I'll see if I have any better luck on another website.

Filled the Spitfire up this morning, £1.799 / litre for 99 RON E5 at the local place

Booked on P&O for the 10CR Hull->Rotterdam, trying to work out if we can cancel the tickets and drive down the country to get a DFDS or something instead. Not many alternatives for getting the car to the continent now though.

Recent storms blew my garden fence over... the posts are (were) held in using spikes, the box section at the top had parted company with the spike itself. So this weekend I set about fixing the fence... on Saturday my new favorite tool was the engine hoist. Perfect for extracting the metal spikes!

Haven't been out to put any fuel in since last Monday (7/3/22), but 99 RON super was £1.67 that day. I'm going out this morning... so I'll take note and report back.

Can't recommend anywhere local, but if you can get the prop to Leeds/West Yorkshire area I highly recommend Dunning & Fairbank for rebuilds and balancing.

If the segments are the same as the Dolomite ones then I might have spares

For an older worn diff a bit of back-lash is to be expected, I assume the video is with hand-brake applied? I wouldn't expect backlash to come to such a "hard stop" unless the wheels are prevented from turning. Problem #1 sounds really worrying, I'd be reluctant to drive it until you find the source of that. Problem #2 the favourite would be something out of balance to start with. If you can, get the wheels checked and go from there, if they are ok then maybe a propshaft WAY out of balance? Might be worth making contact with your closest club group and seeing if somebody will pop round and give you a second set of eyes/ears on the problems?

To be honest I've never found refitting the Spitfire gearbox too bad. Maybe that's because I have "experience" of fitting an R380 with LT230 attached to a Land Rover from underneath. 😉 I found lining up the BW65 onto the 1850 a bit of a pain, but the long studs trick helped.

I'll see how it performs vs having the fan mounted directly against the core. My ultimate aim is to have a proper shroud and mount the fan about an inch further back. I'm considering vac-forming or fibre-glass with a metal frame. I don't have the time at the moment... too many projects!

I know there's nothing "wrong" with them, but I've never been happy mounting the Dolomite fan using pins through the core, so I made some brackets.

🙂 Although I do have the nice tidy original 1973 seats on standby ready to restore originality if required... but I think the MG seats will be in place for the 10CR.

Thanks @Andy Flexney, Andie and I will be there.

That's a good tip, I'll try and remember that. I remember in Spain years ago my wife wanting to know why we were queued for petrol pump 3 when pump 7 was available.... "because I can't remember the Spanish for 7 but I can for 3! " 😉

Each to their own, for the first few hours I find driving on the RHS terrifying, happens every time I get on a car ferry or rent a car abroad. But I find the initial stress well worth it for events like the 10CR and other runs (classic and non-classic) I've done over the years. I think everyone should do what they are happy and comfortable with - whatever that might be.

I think my Spitfire was restored that way in the 1990s. Shocking to find that sort of con being pulled on people. I expect to get an extra 10mph out of the Spitfire by adding lightness when I do the bodywork and rid it of (major) filler.