yorkshire_spam

Very very true!

It's about the only time I wish it was on SUs, the amount of FAFF getting to the floats/needle valves on the Strombergs VS the SUs. Oh and the valves aren't cheap on the 'bergs either. Very very tight access on all the nuts holding them to the manifold. On the car almost no chance of getting them out. Floats were new when James rebuilt the carbs shortly before I bought it - referring back looks like Jul 2017 (Carb Rebuild) I should probably add that the over-flow is an intermittent problem. When I switched off and tapped the rear carb, it stopped. (for now)

No room to get a spanner on the carb->manifold nuts with them in place and I'm not mucking about trying to remove the bottom of the 'bergs on the car.

Well... best laid plans of mice and men... rear carb p155ing fuel. Air filter box off - signs of both carbs overflowing fuel (rear much worse). So it's manifold off (I hate trying to get the waterways etc to seal refitting these damned things) and I'll pull the carbs apart and see what I find. Doubt it's the pump - still on mechanical and it was piddling out even on tick over. But I guess there's a chance it's that.

My 4:2:1 came from Paddocks, it was of "acceptable" fit quality (never bought a system for an old motor that "just fit", they all seem to need a little tweaking)

Awesome stuff, some pretty high production values with the filming, really nice.

+1 for Park Lane, Owen is an awesome dude. No experience of their seat related products but will never spend money with Rimmers if there's an alternative. I toned my 4:2:1 and twin "wheel barrow" system down by fitting a centre resonator in the long plain pipe between the chassis rails If you want to go down that route the Jetex part number I used was U404500, it's not quiet, but it's more bearable at higher speeds/rpm.

Catch 3rd... so that a few seconds later you can cog it back down to 2nd (which on my box needs a double de-clutch) and then repeat the whole palaver over again for the next hairpin! 🙂 We love it really.

I did think climbing some of the passes on the 10CR a 2+OD would have been handy, so I looked at swapping to a P-type (better able to handle the torque than the J from what I understand) and re-arranging the interlock so that OD was prevented on 1+R not 1+2+R, but after a while the expense and hassle didn't seem worth it for the really rare occasion where it'd be useful.

Waiting to give the car a good test run on the Border Raiders... see what falls off/breaks and take it from there. Hotels booked, ferry booked, after the BR I'll make sure we are all sorted with paperwork, spares, etc.

An alternative is a wide woodscrew and a crowbar with a claw end. (Or at a pinch a claw hammer)

Depends a lot on luck... and the type of core plug. I tend to start by drilling a small hole in the plug then screwing the very course threaded attachment for my slide hammer into the hole. The slide hammer rarely works, but when it does it's by far and away the quickest/easiest method I've found. When that doesn't work, if the plug is the type with the lip edge I try and get a drift/chisel onto the edge and drive it inwards (similar approach to removing the outer part of a metalstic bush) When all else fails... just beat the thing out of shape and try and hook it out with a sturdy screwdriver.

Just checking is it 100% road speed related and NOT engine RPM related? (You don't get the same noise at the same RPM but at a lower speed) I'd assume not, but just to be sure? The list of possibilities is almost endless... but I'd start with the obvious/cheap stuff.... Wheels balanced? Prop balanced? Prop mounting/alignment correct? Diff in reasonable condition? No sign of wheel bearings having excessive play or getting hot after a decent run After that to me the likely thing is there's a vibration somewhere that's at a resonant frequency of one of the body panels/doors etc. Also assuming there's no other symptoms like steering shudder etc.

Switch should conduct when below the pressure threshold and not conduct when above. (ie. ON at low/no pressure, OFF at higher pressure) (I think)

Sad news Tim, our condolences to the family and friends.

I think the yolks are heated to fit and then shrink onto the splines (the proper ones, not the cheese based replacements that fall apart when you look at them) Might have a whole shaft assembly somewhere if you get stuck. Are you on long or short shafts?

I don't usually set much store by them, but maybe time for a compression test?

Sounds like it's burning a bit of oil when you lift off and go back on throttle. Were the bores ok when you did the head gasket? My guess would be rings worn. If it's not using a huge amount of oil and the smoke isn't too unbearable, drive it as is and do an engine rebuild at a later date?

Do they really need the chassis number OR the VIN? The VIN is known as Commission Number (Comm No) in Triumphs of a certain age and would be on the ID plate I think rivitted to the side panel visible when the bonnet is raised. Something like this: The smaller ID plate below is the body number and then there may or may not be a separate chassis number tag. Apart from heritage info and manufacturing the numbers on the body+chassis are pretty much irrelevant from the point of view of IDing the vehicles. (But try persuading some bureaucrats of that!) There seems to be a general confusion amongst the paperwork people because of the different terms. Comm No. should be considered the vehicle identity.

Perfect translation thanks Theo! I think it's what the USA people call "Denatured Alcohol", but in the UK it's definitely methylated spirit! It's what I used to measure the volume of the combustion chambers on my cylinder head. Interesting, I think I'll make swapping to dot4 the job for winter after the 10cr!

Sneaky f**kers at our local Shell nearly caught me out the other day with their VPower diesel. Luckily I spotted it just before I started filling in the tank.

Thanks Paul, At the moment the system is dot 5, I continue to top up with dot 5 (not 4, not 5.1) but at some point I'd rather switch to dot 4. I think I'll punt this problem do AFTER the 10CR as if I'm going to have a leaking brake system I don't want it to be during that event!

Great photo @Royboy66!

Previous owner put Dot 5 in it when he put the car back on the road - so brake parts were new/refurbished at that time. But as I say, I don't like the fact that it's "hard to find and expensive" dot 5 (not even 5.1) nor have I ever been totally happy with the pedal feel. (MOT tester comments on the brake feel every year) Hmmm.... I might just ignore it for another year 😉

Never been totally happy with the pedal feel I get with dot 5 in the Dolomite brakes. Do I face a nightmare replacing it with dot 4? Failed seals etc?