Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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having had one come loose and lock the prop make sure the front plate is fixed with 4 taper shank bolts as the holes in the plate are larger than the bolt thread dia. you need internal shakeproof washers on these 4 special taper bolts. having found this out with much noise and clatter the recon diff only had std 3/8 bolts in the plate, unable to get under in clean togs for a day out is the only time in 50 years of driving returned on a flat bed recovery .. I have also sucessfully drilled a 4 hole to a six hole using the spring plate as a jig, drilled down 25mm , this didnt drill right through so no debris inside. Pete
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in many places it seems its cheaper to convert to stag caliper and disc as they are cheaper just look at rimmers disc and pad kit prices just a thought pete
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3.5 mts will give adequate spare to play with Pete
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3.5 mts will give adequate spare to play with Pete
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Having had some from suppliers that are pretty impossible to fit in the C channel on my newly acquired 2000 without the need for something strong in your tea and a packet of plasters I went off to find other sections the suppler I used makes thousands on extrusions and will supply samples COH Baines Ltd http://www.coh-baines.co.uk/ section is Foam seal with Tee SRS 071 £2.31 Mtr +vat this is same as TR4 and slides easily around the C channel and fills the door shut . takes about 5 mins per door and no cursing maybe Ive been unlucky here but now have replaced the hard licorice remains and not had to fight the wrong contour .into the retainer jobs a good one Pete
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Having had some from suppliers that are pretty impossible to fit in the C channel on my newly acquired 2000 without the need for something strong in your tea and a packet of plasters I went off to find other sections the suppler I used makes thousands on extrusions and will supply samples COH Baines Ltd http://www.coh-baines.co.uk/ section is Foam seal with Tee SRS 071 £2.31 Mtr +vat this is same as TR4 and slides easily around the C channel and fills the door shut . takes about 5 mins per door and no cursing maybe Ive been unlucky here but now have replaced the hard licorice remains and not had to fight the wrong contour .into the retainer jobs a good one Pete
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you may have to remove the trunion and clear it all out the seize can be down to it being greased in the past and corrosion has set in the trunnion is an actual oil bath it holds a reservoir of oil, this is a good time to examine for signs of thread corroision, which is where cracks start to appear and ultimate (unwanted) separation. if you go for any tracking adjustments bear in mind the spec in the manual is at its static ride height and to get that you need 150lbs on each seat on pretty well every triumph. get the spec and proceedure from a triumph workshop manual . as no tyre 'specialist' will have any clues and the result will be an expensive waste. Pete
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think you are getting mixed up with two parts the felt seal is a must and protects the bearings, some aftermarket metal discs are oversize and useless, most keep the old one. the unobtainium is the much larger diameter water seal between the stub /upright and the caliper carrier, these are not available and did little. was a form of o ring you can use a sealant to do the same effect if you fit new bearing seals always re check the end float of 002" to 008" by lightly tighten the castle nut and back off one or two flats , there must be endfloat on front hub bearings . or you will seize the lot very quickly Pete
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just a few ideas if the simple fails to resolve. also make sure the inhibitor switch is only just being operated and when hot doesnt make contact, if D type remove square cover and operate OD solennoid, in the lever you see a small 3mm hole this should line up with a similar hole in the case, use a drill as a gauge. there is in the top case a hex headed cap screw which will allow you to lift out the valve tube, this has a small hole in end careful cleaning if blocked if J type remove solenoid with thin wall 1" af spanner and remove end circlip , tap out the piston and give a good clean up both units rely on clean filters and oil up to the correct level, its not uncommon for the filters and magnetic rings to be covered in a gunge and they are messy to clean up. pete
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no stag clues but used green stuff on the Vit6 and it was hopeless at stopping, the only advantage wheels are easy to clean M1144 we the best Ive ever used, having just acquired a 2000 thats been off the road for many years the brakes were quite flat and uninspiring, thus followed by a full breakdown of the servo, new servo now gets some dive when braking, the discs and other bits are all up for a serious re build with renewed. but the dead pan braking is now gone ... there was a biological pong at the roundabout where it eventually showed its true colours as the bus just skimmed past , so if you have alazy high efffort pedal have adream about the state of the much ignored servo Pete
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on my newly acquired 2000 Im contemplating drilling the clutch housing thro the bush and fitting a greaser to lube the lousy cross shaft bushes , this seems an exposed weak link in smooth operations. just n idea Pete
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here a fault chart from LK http://clutchnet.com/index.php?option=com_docman&task=doc_download&gid=2&Itemid=129 any google search finds some charts Pete
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believe Borg and Beck/AP are now made under license by First Line , may be worth a check the engine back plate is 'flat' if the gearbox is a little out of line you can induce all sorts of cracks and fractures. had a giant wall chart from AP on the wall at work with all the classic failures on, unfortunate the charts gone the walls gone and the factory gone ...Im gone too Ha ! Pete
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avoid deep pocket thoughts until you have runner and have time to judge just how far you want to go utopia is great but expensive, depends how many miles you expect to use the car for as a cheap check have you checked the dizzy drive gear end float, ??? ( has shims under the pedestal ) if excessive these can set up a dull clatter and is the noise cam speed or crank speed ? Pete
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Keith its a classic, you know when ever you find the cause it never cures the problem live in hope pete
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have you tried the old stethoscope trick by holding a large wooden handled screwdriver on places on the block and sticking the handle in your ear, easy to move around and locate where the noise is most pronounced, dont get it in the fan or A&E have to physically remove it ouch ! dont feel cam followers will rumble but the cam tail bearing could. I have seen semi seized followers due to debris from head cleaning being left down the follower chest which scored the followers and their bores. ,, no rumble just continuous tappet type clatter you cant seem to eliminate. the prime lever on your pump sounds seized if it stays 'up' it is not directly connected to the cam lever but does drop the diaphragm if demand allows and the lever is not on the cams lift stroke, there is a lost motion set up to stop the diaphragm rod moving the hand primer. maybe it has the wrong pump fitted in its life and the cam lever is in hard contact ? Pete
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have had this odd operating mind of its own with the J tpye on my recently acquired T2000 with the J type, if the solenoid piston is sticking partly open you get some very odd operations when you dont expect them. you need a thin 1" af spanner to unscrew the solenoid assy, jack up the rear to avoid oil loss, although not a lot will spill out remove the solenoid, ( do not be tempted to use grips on the body) in the end of the solenoid is a small circlip. remove this and tap the body on a block to shake the internal piston out give it a good clean up and refit, you can test it with any simple leads to a 12v source it doesnt take much current , you will here and see the piston click and snap quickly on the move ( if you test before you strip it will be slow sluggish or not move at all) screw back into the geabox, do not overtighten, top up the oil at the gearbox level filler and all will be smooth and seamless changes . Pete
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Refitting D type overdrive unit to back of gearbox
Pete Lewis replied to GT6 Jonesy's topic in Drivetrain
next time use apair of good screwdrivers and just raise the bridge bars to release the clutch and it all self aligns. as a small but important point if this was a D type did you look for the small dot marks on the satellite gears , on each gear there is a etched or dot mark on the edge of one tooth, these must be aligned when fitting the planet hub with similar faint marks on the hub. this gives the best tooth running position and makes all three gears take a shared load , if ignored then you can end up with only one of the three taking the load and vibrations appear. bit of a pain but worth the attention, most manuals cover this requirement just a thought Peter -
hey Keith this may be a play on words but if your front cover has a scroll it wont have a 'seal' if there is any dark markings around the disc that would indicate oil is in the linings, if its ferrodo stuff colour across its facing then its 'not ' if you still play with the dummy set up then they use 3 dummy disc thickness buttons at 0.305" thick, this replicates the disc and should give e release height of 2.22" max. if you lightly clamp the disc facings in a vice to just lightly compress the wavy plates then the disc should be around the same 0.305" thick, if by chance you have a diaphragm disc its thinner by about 2mm to start with Oh have you tried spec savers Ha !
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cant help about the changes but if you want to persist with the coil unit you could fit it to a dummy flywheel and check the throwout platten is running flat with a dial indiactor across its surface it there is runout you can un peen the post nuts and adjust the heights , any throw out runout will be turned into judder due to offset contact loads might be worth a play . whats more anoying is I had in a cupboard at work a churchill coil aligning face plate, been there for 40 years and never used , too small for truck stuff, and it went in the skip when things closed down, just 1 year before i bought the vit6 with a coil cover ...Pah.... if only !!! pete
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also check the diff front mounts these go soft the diff can tramp on take up. Keith its easy to fit a diaphragm but you are likely to need to add a new dowel hole in the flywheel, and get the later longer throw out carrier. its a much more refined operation and can be a lot cheaper . not an engineering solution but we centralised the new cover by adding a pipe olive to each bolt to take up the hole clearance and drilled the dowel hole with a battery drill . tapped in a new dowel and it was fine , did make a simple rig to rotate the flywheel and check dowls concentricy with a dial gauge , but certainly DIY possible. if you have a local engineering shop then thats probably best. pete
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slow rack has a small identification groove turned in the input shaft splines to identify it we had an exchange rack before we did any homework , all the same they say... but with a 7 tooth and my old biceps needed 4 shreaded wheat to park the ground anchor weight, then you find out the basics and get the correct one , even went back to the orig weston steering wheel diameter to keep the handwheel loads down its all down to preference Pete
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pete i have a spare new sender for bi metal gauge ( slow needle) use. the moving iron ( wavy) needle gauge sender works the oposite way round and thats what you seem to be fighting with, you cant intermix stablised and non stabilised systems you can cut the holes off a 6 hole sender to make it fit in a later bayonet ring fitting but not the other way round if you want a second one to play with pop down. you need to match the sender to the type of gauge fitted , many places sell the later one only and say they are all the same you can get 6 hole non stabilised and six hole stabilised , so they all fit but wont ever work if intermixed Pete
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if removed I would refit with something like Loctite 574 or similar sets with exclusion of air . bullet proof stuff. these types of product are well used for face to face gasket less joints in the manufacturing industry. Pete
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this is a bit of a flyer but the long shafts would go with the swing spring the short pipe and bracket is to stop the large spring eye of the swinger from chafing thro the direct fit short shaft flex route. Pete