Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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you can use a dial indicator and a block to enable setting the height of the pinion with its new head bearing to replicate the exact same as whats taken out , the mounting distance is in principle the need to align the projected cone of the pinion with the centre line of the diff case bore. if we had the drawings its easy to calculate the distance but my books dont show whats needed the numbers on the end are to + - to achive best running postion for the pair of gears , Pete
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Dave, these must be a pair , the 2ltr vit used a lighter weight with a spring the heavy one is from a 1600 which did not have the spring burlen dont list the specs ,,I had them some where but not surfaced just now. so 1600 had no spring heavy ( twice as thick weight) 2ltr has spring and thin weight depends where you search but looks like mk1 is also different to mk2 as models and specs evolved you seem to have a mixed pair re built by someone who didnt appreciate the subtle differences Pete
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to check timing without a strob ..you dont need a strobe as the electronic unit works as a switch just as the old points sos asmall pea bulb connected between coil neg and earth will alight as the leccy unit triggers just the same as when you had points . turn engine slowly till lamp just lights and look at the timiming pointer do take out the HT king lead or or she may fire up. wet plugs can be due to lack of choke and continual attemps to fire up, the fuel builds up as wet and unburnt , the culprit may be the choke just is not giving enough richness to fire up a cold engine . Pete
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its called belt slip made by Hycote just found my old aerosol, like the talc smells nice 'even if it doesnt cure . old trick was a quick rub on the dip stick whilst idling. the noise is the squeegee of the belt as it bends in the vee, think its to do with the kevlar cords mixed in the belt making tighter can also improve the noise Pete
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chris witor shows a double lip seal. some aftermarket seals are too thick and dont stay located in the cover especially the thick plastic bodied ones. the old oe tin body are better. Pete
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sorry thats a bit 'big. and upsidedown Pete
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synchro relies on good clutch operation. ber in mind every change the mainshaft has to spin up or down the upstream gear sets and the clutch disc to synchronise the revs of the gear sets. all in the blink of an eye if it Baulks and blocks engagement its clutch if it crashes violently at the start of a change its clutch if it grates and clashes part way into a change its baulk ring or tooth chamfering degraded.as the sync ring has no 'rockover' then it lets goes before any sychronising has had the chance to work then its check the there is a well defined chamfer on the gear dog teeth the ball ans springs in the hub/sleeve are correct the baulkring is not bottomed out or lost its 'wring' grip on the cone extract ataached (if it comes out) of a good Rootes description of how Pete
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if you ever need to change just the disc remember a coil disc is thicker than a diaphragm one if you inter mix you really upset the clamp/pedal loads hysterisis both will fit. so must be matched by design. yes new cylinders cheap , not worth messing with worn ones, had one car we were involved with fixing and some bright spark had fitted the piston about face to try and make the wrong seal a good fit, leaked like a sieve but it had an MOT that morning . Pete
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there were only two racks the 4 pot has a plain spline input shaft high ratio for light engine the 6 pot has a groove/anulus turned around the spline to identify its the low ratio . for heavy engine this is in addition to the groove for the clamp bolt all vitesse and gt6 have this one as std. you have to raise/remove the coupling clamp to see this groove . many reconditioners will say they are all the same ...worn that tee shirt. if you fit the high ratio you may need 4 shreaded wheat to park it , fit a smaller handwheel and you need 6 for breaky and a work out quicker turns when out on the road but manouvers are hopeless fine if you have the biceps of an commando but hopeless if you are a retired layabout . Pete
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the clues given on piston O rings is good, most OD parts suppliers dont list the J type O rings for the Piston only the ones that seal solenoid to case.dont think they expect you to delve a bit further than £95 for a solenoid ... often not needed Pete.
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mine was just having a mind of its own depending where the shuttle jammed itself, luckiy the o rings were all fine so a gentle clean with some brake cleaner removed the old lacquered oil deposits and returned the operation from a poor click and a slight nudge to firing the piston in a more aggressive click clack. guess the problem was due to being unsed for too many years then being forced into life, what you dont want is the shuttle holding open then going for reverse can be costly. Pete
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I converted the coil cover and disc to a 2ltr diaphragm unit you need a 2 ltr throwout bearing carrier and drill a additional dowel hole to make it fit. watch any replacement clutch kits as the bearings are only 15mm thick the orig is 19mm and this upsets the lever angles and leverage. ratio's. the book jacking is under the outer corners of the siderail/outrigger, not if the old girl is rusty, but the diff rear crossmember and engine crossmember are usually sound Pete
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if all is sound . the grommet is not perished , its down to agism, you could bind the valve with adhesive tape to increase its fit or use a rubber sealer, its vacuum youre sealing and any loss affects the assistance given, mine just wrecked the main diaphragm after me thinking these brakes are not inspiring ( being new to the car ) a week later saw some excitment with a rapid approaching roundabout a big bus !!! heavy pedal and little braking Ooops! good luck Pete
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you will also need the OD rear mount chassis support plate and the dedicated rear rubber mount . Pete
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best way is look at the brilliant clues on the Buckeye site http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/JOD1.htm http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/Theory13B.jpg yes it all needs to come out,, can be a tad tight if its all stuck up. Pete
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in the old days of manufacture the reservoir would be under a light pressure and the bleed off tubes under a vacuum later in the late 80's evacuate and fill became the normal you vacuum the reservoir and remove all air down to around 0 "hg , trap the vacuum, open a fluid supply and whoosh in it goes , no bleeding needed no spills . no waste. maybe you could devise a DIY version with your vac pump ??? Pete
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while its out its easy to strip it out for a clean remove the small 10mm circlip in the end, then it will need a few good taps on the bench to get the partly seized inner piston/valve to move out enought to carefully grip it and pull the piston and seals out, give it a good clean and refit , if you operate it without the circlip get ready to catch it as it fires out the barrel. when its free you will see the piston and feel the thing move quite positively. dont be tempted to use the solenoid body to screw it back in , a thin 1"af spanner is needed. its easy to wreck the body pete
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just to add , the front ones depending on the size of the forged head can in some cases pitch on the machined register on the back of the hub, simple to file or grind a small chamfered relief to keep t clear or the stud will be pitched at an angle, when you split the discs off make sure the hub and disc mating surfaces are clean and 'flat' or you will likely get some disc runout Pete
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its not uncommon for the contacts inside the inhibitor switch to be green and past it, whilst is invisible its worth a check if you can get it out, uncrimp the sa141 base plastic and all will be revealed , you could try to google a double jointed midget ?? on mine it had a mind of its own, that was a jammed lack of use solenoid piston no sparks just did what it wanted with no controll just in out all by its self. just remove the circlip inside the end of the sol and extract the plunger , clean and replace, pete
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you need to add the cost of a remote/bolt on reservoir, places like merlin motor sport or car builders solutions show a whole range of cylinders to adapt as needed. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/ http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/ Pete
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some outer seals are much thicker than the originals, and the clips resist fitting, the green coloured clips are the best . tip tie a length ofcotton to the clip so you can retrieve it from the dark places these ping off too. easy to cut off once fitted. tip, have a spare pair of hands a small mallet and a bit of wood fit clip in tool and insert in door gap slide along to desired position and start to pull it upwards, whilst holding the seal down, and get the clip to engage the door lip and the seal , Then get the spare hands to use the wooden drift and tap down while you pull up, this takes a little practice but does ensure the clip it up as high as it will travel Pete
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some outer seals are much thicker than the originals, and the clips resist fitting, the green coloured clips are the best . tip tie a length ofcotton to the clip so you can retrieve it from the dark places these ping off too. easy to cut off once fitted. tip, have a spare pair of hands a small mallet and a bit of wood fit clip in tool and insert in door gap slide along to desired position and start to pull it upwards, whilst holding the seal down, and get the clip to engage the door lip and the seal , Then get the spare hands to use the wooden drift and tap down while you pull up, this takes a little practice but does ensure the clip it up as high as it will travel Pete
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if the float needle was playing up the excess fuel will come one of the smaller round ports in the front face where the air box fits against. normall caused by debris flaoting behind the valve hsg. if its from below there are two O rings a large one seals the jet holder to the float chamber hole and a smaller seals the adjustable jet to the jet holder you can unscrew the whole jet holder and not upset the mixture settings but to change the smaller seal you need to unscrew the jet i light smeear of lube will aid the refiiting if you take the top cover off to examine the diaphragm it may be swollen ,and hard to relocate, a wash with petrol will return it to normal. make sure the location lugs are fitted into there recess. Pete
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also some clues about the variety of type 16 calipers/pads and pin sizes Pete
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if this loads here is the bedding in plan for 1144 pads Pete