Jonny-Jimbo

How about arranging for there to be professional photographers at some of the venues to take good photos of the cars as the arrive and maybe at some of them, the teams mingling around etc. £5 for a framed photo embossed with something like 'Club Triumph Round Britain Reliability Run 2016' and the club laurels on the frame?

Rappo, did you get this car from Coventry? I saw one a while ago that was very similar, but I wasn't in a position to buy at the time...

First entries received; Beginner Novice Richard Warr / Lynn O'Halloran - Worcs - 2000 Mk1 Expert Barry Marsh / Paul Marsh - Bucks/London - Vitesse 2L

Wiring is easy enough for the overdrive - take the gearbox cover off - look for any obvious signs of damage first. They are often the main culprit. If there is nothing obvious (you may have to wipe wires down with a clean rag to get rid of oil and dirt), then pop the top off the gearknob, you should see a little lip on the front for where to pry it up. Avoid a screwdriver as you can damage the plastic. A strong thumb nail will usually do. Gently feed the wire back up the gearstick from by the gearbox body. Again, check the switch body for burning or signs of damage. If there is nothing, carefully pull the spade connectors from the switch, with age the connections can become brittle, so it may be worth changing them anyway. You should now be able to withdraw the OD wiring from the stick. Again, inspect for signs of damage and replace as needed. In almost all cases I have seen, the wiring has worn though on a bolt head and chaffed through the insulation. On my 2000 Mk1 however it was because the wiring has poorly positioned and it chaffed through on the gearbox cover. Horn will be similar, but a common fault is the push on the steering wheel. An easy test it to just put a known good feed onto the horn spades directly to see if it sounds. If it doesn't, give it a knock with a dead-blow or something, sometimes they just seize up.

Sure Ted, all I meant was I could see what everyone meant, I was just saying that I can see there is LESS need for a low pressure pump, but I'm going to fit one anyway, just in case, particularly as I hope to do a few track days in the Vitesse this year. And obviously then it's good to have a cut out. The main issue I'm having is deciding where to mount the pump - there are fittings in the boot from when the car had KD's race engine in, but also, if I mount it on the block in the pumps original position I don't have to re-do the plumbing. Just a matter of taste really on that front.

Ignoring all of the above (for I will not comment further on the rights and wrongs of fitting a switch), I am going to fit one anyway. I had not thought of running one through a relay actually. I think I have a four pin relay somewhere, if not, I'll grab one at the local breakers yard when I go to look for a switch. They occasionally have classics in there too, so if I see anything of interest I'll post about it. The issue will be seeing what cars they have in and then locating the inertia switch on the car!

I think there are two distinct type of pumps - the ones with the glass bowl and those without. It would not be possible to put a glass bowl onto a metal bodied pump.

I'm a little at odds with this series of videos - I enjoy watching them, and have picked up a few bits and pieces, but it's more of a video clip gallery of the car's rebuild rather than a tutorial. This is fine with me, but to say it will 'show you how to restore your Herald or Vitesse' is not strictly true. There ARE good bits of information in there, but on the more complicated bits of repair, such as a very convoluted repair patch and they just say 'Here's a patch I made earlier, and this is how you weld it in' isn't teaching much. I'd like to see more about the fabrication work that can easily be done at home using tools that most people have or can afford. Imagine this crossed with project Binky. On that, rather than saying 'Here are some suspension turrets we made', they actually go through the process of making the turrets, the considerations they had to make, and also that sometimes scrap is just as useful, such as using a brake disc as a dolly to form the metal. Or maybe it's just that I really like the technical aspect of it, and would like the videos to be more in depth...

Hi all, I'm putting a low pressure electric pump on my Vitesse as I'm fed up of the appalling quality of the mechanical pumps available these days (I fitted three new ones in succession and all of the leaked like a sieve). Anyway, although I have no intention of shunting the Vitesse, I want the security of an inertia cut of switch to be fitted. Can anyone tell me what they have fitted in terms of junk yard parts etc? I'm hoping for something I can fit in the engine bay near the pump, preferably with only two or three wires. What is anyone's suggestion? If it matters, the pump I'm fitting is a a modern version of the SU pump as fitted to old Mini's etc. The supply rate and pressure is suitable for the carbs and engine tune.

Great, thanks for the support, Will post an entry list when I have a few more.

A Cards Against Hummanity, but an RBRR version?

Good evening everyone, please find attached the entrant paperwork for the 2016 Warwickshire Winter Rally. The route I am using will take in a wide range of roads, from narrow single track lanes, fast b-roads and A-roads, and great lanes. It is a 'CRO' route, so no car breakers, all is sealed surface, although being February, it might get a bit muddy out there. I have driven the route a few times now to check it all is okay, and there are some lovely little villages along the way, great architecture (if you keep your eyes open!) and some of Warwickshire's finest scenery (okay, it's not the sea side). The navigation will be the usual mix of navigation types, as used in other CT events. All instructions will have a full explanation at the briefing. You may also notice that the entry fee is slightly lower than the mid-summer events I have run. This is mainly due to the event being a half day event, so rental fee of the start venue is reduced (2 hours rather than 8 hours for the summer event). Once again, due to the early start time I will be providing a light breakfast and tea and coffee etc on arrival. With the event possibly being very cold due to being in Feb, you are welcome to bring Thermos flasks etc I can fill up at the start. This is NOT a treasure hunt, but a 12 car navigation rally. The start venue is Fillongley Village Hall, which is very close to the start venues used previously, and around 2 miles from Canley Classics. The event is just shy of 80 miles long, and is timed to around 4 hours. I hope to have a full contingent of 12 cars, across the three classes of Beginner, Novice and Expert. As before, the Beginner class will be non-competitive, and can either tour round using a marked map, or the clues provided to the Novice teams. The beginner class will be based on a series of questions based around the route. As usual, any questions, please either PM me, or ask on here. Thanks, look forward to seeing you in two months!

Any chance of a few more photos of your car Steve? Maybe from above or the carb side of the engine so can see the pipes and tank etc?

How would that work though? Check points, with points based on arrival time etc? Or the different models of car?

Yes Steve, that's the one - was a half decent game. Although, that was in the early 90's when I was about 6 or 7... But as a principle of how the game could work, I think it could be a good basis for RBRR. Not sure how much it would cost to get a custom board game made up for around 100 sets or so... a lot would be my guess.

One way round it to put the block in with the front and end plates on a jack and attach front mounts, and then build up the whole engine in situe. It's possible, but not 100% the best way of course...

There was a board game called 'Race Around Britain' - if anyone can find a set it would be a good basis for it. Had questions and trivia about the places. Would be very good. Might sell well outside of the club if made to be 'accessible'.

Ideal if you have some hex and a lathe to knock your own out. Sadly, that's not the case for me...

I'd say the easiest is to remove the bonnet and hoof it all in from the front, and I'm sure the faff of fitting gas struts will be a LOT less than the faff of trying to get a big engine and box in between the bonnet and bulkhead. I did it once on my Herald 13/60, and it was a huge pain in the arse with the bonnet on, even with a four pot and non-overdrive gearbox. In terms of a helper, if you need a hand, give me a shout as I'm just down the road.

Yup, the brass ones don't rust on! The three small holes are for location dowels I think? Not 100% on that though.

Send it this way, I'll weld them up...

Yup, it's usually pretty basic mathematics; when perpendicular to the axle travel in the vertical direction, the spring rate is near to what is quoted (not all springs actually are what they say), at 45 degrees it will be nominally half, and at horizontal (unless pushrods etc are used) it will be effectively zero.

Well, the original Land Rover one will have had thousands of hours testing to make sure it is up to scratch and the £2.50 Britpart one will be made to look a bit like the original. That's the basic gist. There will also be extensive legal paperwork and engineering reports into the Land Rover one. Personally, wherever possible, I use original manufacturer on my cars, obviously not possible on a Triumph mind.

As a rule when deciding spring rates, a stiffer front end will promote understeer and a stiffer rear end will promote oversteer - However as Josh said, the physical rate of the spring is not the same as the fitted length due to leverage of the arms and also how compressed they are when fitted.

Surely motor power is not the important factor? It must be the design of the blades, the angle of them and the number that dictates how much air is moved. An 80W motor with a 12" fan, 9 blades, curved etc will move more air than a 12" fan on a 120W motor with one flat blade...