Jonny-Jimbo
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Everything posted by Jonny-Jimbo
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Cheers Nick, I don't know the 2000's as well as I'd like yet, well, the back end on mine has given relatively little trouble in the 5 odd years I've owned it... Sounds easy enough to swap over, and a friend of mine as a load of tube and a CNC so if needs be I can make a tool to press the new seal into place. I have a new back plate gasket too so I can clean the diff out etc at the same time. I'll check the front bearing etc too in the nose piece, but if that needs doing I may just buy the new central section from Chris Witor if the bearing is on the way out too. Actually... somewhere I had some sealed RHP bearings that came to me from a bloke that used to work at the factory... I could never work out what they were from, but hopefully I still have them and they're for the quill shaft!!
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I'm guessing to do the diff oil seal I'll also need to undo the nut on the front of the input shaft, part 159394 on the drawing above? Then remove the washers and shims etc too? Not as simple a job as I was hoping for it seems. Thing is, as it's peeing oil out where the diff meets the nose piece I don't want to just top the diff up and then take it apart before RBRR, but with only two weekends to do all that and more before HCR I may be hard pushed to get it done... I know taking the diff out won't take too long as I put new mounts on two years ago, so it won't be all seized up, I'm just not sure how long it'll take to get the nut off and then spend ages trying to get the seal etc out...
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Any photos of your R160 install Julian?
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Thanks Richard, but the oil seal I needed to change was the one in the front of the diff, where it meets the central bit of the subframe. I have ordered a seal from CW. But I wasn't aware there could be an issue with it washing the grease out of the Quill shaft bearing too, unless I have completely misunderstood which seal it is I need to change etc... The diff backlash is fine, but the Quillshaft has a bit of a knock on it. I think I'll get under the car on Friday (booked the day off work to get more spanner time before HCR) and see exactly what's what.
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Damn, so it's probably not going to be a diff out - diff in job then...
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Hi all, I need to change the pinion oil seal on my mk1. I noticed the other day there was a small bit of oil under the diff that seems to be leaking from the front where it meets the centre piece of the subframe. I'm hoping it hasn't knackered the bearing too in the process. Anyway, can anyone tell me the dimensions of the seal I will need? There's a really good bearing and seal place near me, so I was hoping they can supply something that would suit. Thanks, Jon
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My 2.5 runs a 4.11 diff (not a Scooby, original Triumph) and it doesn't feel too bad - at the weekend she was doing a tonne (GPS speedo, not on the car) and was still pulling hard, so if you want to get out and throw it round some twisties etc then a 4.11 wouldn't be too bad. I agree that for a motorway cruiser it would be a bit short geared.
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The equivalent of this, but for your specific vehicle - http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-single-carburettor-engine-heat-shield-usa And number 73 on this drawing, but for your specific vehicle - http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-vitesse-mkii-2-litre-stromberg-carburettors
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It's one job I hate after throwing a top nut on a damper unit - made a bloody big clang and the nut went through the shed wall near enough! UNITs CAN be removed from the car complete without a spring compressor. But not the individual spring - as has been said further up the post. Now I always put a ratchet strap around the spring and compressors in case they slip in use, it at least holds them vaguely in place.
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Yeah, sounds like fuel vaporisation. My Dad had that issue on his Lotus Elan, which also had an unwrapped tubular exhaust. When he stopped for fuel after a drive he had to pop the bonnet to let the heat out or it would boil the fuel in the carbs and not restart!
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Will be discussing with Alex soon, we have provisionally pencilled this into our calenders. Might see about getting the Vitesse going for this as it's a two person crew event.
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If you have the time you can be careful and pick certain parts up cheaply enough. A Kenlowe kit for my 2000 would have cost upwards of £200, and that would be ziptied through the radiator, which I didn't want. I bought the thermostatic switch, and fan on ebay for a few quid, made an aluminium mount, and bought the relays, wires and terminals etc from an online automotive electronics company for less than £60 all in.
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Sounds like an excellent base for building into a very nice clean car then!
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Who's got what to do for 2016?
Jonny-Jimbo replied to GreenV8Machine's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Hmm, before the HCR I need to take the diff out, fit a new oil seal and refit, rebuild the rear brakes and handbrake, weld up and fit a new fan mount and fit a new clutch slave cylinder... Hmm... all in only two weekends. I feel some holiday time being taken!! -
Looking good! What shade of green is that?
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Yup! When I was over that way a few years ago where I was living, the phoneline didn't even support touch-tone phones. Had to call premium rate lines for the energy providers, East Anglia Coal by Donkey Delivery Services, on my mobile... The phonebill cost more than the tuppence ha'penny of coal! 😉
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Not used them on the Triumphs at all, but picking the bodies apart on old BMWs we always used the drills with no problems at all. We took a whole rust free 2002 shell down to it's individual panels so we could take moulds off each. Fibreglass 2002 shell for modsports racing... sadly I left the company before that came to completion. Howeverthe drills are spot on for the job, as long as you can get them centred right.
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Not used them on the Triumphs at all, but picking the bodies apart on old BMWs we always used the drills with no problems at all. We took a whole rust free 2002 shell down to it's individual panels so we could take moulds off each. Fibreglass 2002 shell for modsports racing... sadly I left the company before that came to completion. Howeverthe drills are spot on for the job, as long as you can get them centred right.
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Agreed - use the drill - nominally 3 sizes available, 6, 8 and 10mm. 8mm will cover most bases. I found the 10mm one useful when there were two spot welds overlapping, where one may have failed etc.
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Agreed - use the drill - nominally 3 sizes available, 6, 8 and 10mm. 8mm will cover most bases. I found the 10mm one useful when there were two spot welds overlapping, where one may have failed etc.
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What was the thought (if there was any) at Canley by fitting straps in the shafts? Splined or solid is standard fair, just wondering if there was a reason, or something they were trying to eliminate by fitting straps?
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Oddly the Canley's Website appears to show the strap at the front, but I only say that as it 'appears', which I took to be 'in car line' so my apologies for that.
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Strap at the gearbox end I believe.
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Attempt 477 at uploading Section 4 of the marked map...
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Well when I first organised an event I figured that the hall hire broke down to around £4.80 a team, so I rounded it up to £5 and then included tea and coffee etc, so you do sort of pay for it in a way... Yes, I can send them out; shall I send to the email address on your entry form?