Jonny-Jimbo
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Everything posted by Jonny-Jimbo
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Hi all, I thought I'd get an early announcement out for the "Shakespeare's Summer Scatter" rally. The date we have lined up is Sunday July 3rd. The start location will be new again, and further south in the county. This is to allow for new areas to be explored, and give the teams (and organisers!) a new challenge. You will also need OS Map 151. Areas are being pin-pointed and question hunting will begin shortly - as usual there will be a good mix of easy pointers and some devilishly tricky high points. We will also be having a photo round again! The event will be run for 24 cars again, with the intention these will be filled by CT. If they are not, the event will be opened to other Triumph Clubs, and local motoring clubs. The team bringing this event to you is the same as usual, with myself at the helm as it were, AJ will be my sanity and provider of food (not sure what the menu is yet this year, but the chilli last year was a big hit). Ben and Hefty on time control and marshalling, with Andy and Rachel doing photography again. It would be great to have a full contingent of Triumphs on this event, and hopefully welcome back some teams that have come to our events before as well as some new faces. More details to follow. Cheers, Jon
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So would that mean changing the sub axle would be acceptable, or do you mean the face of the upright is worn away? Would this not cause play in the bearing on the stub axle, as I couldn't detect any play there.
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This is where we really need someone that works in a motorfactors with all the catalogues etc so they can go through them all and find mounts that would be suitable with some adaptation.
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Guessing you have a pile of them somewhere then Colin?
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What wears out on the Spider Dave??
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Rear crank seal could be worth having one handy in case the original is leaking - assuming you mean you've got the box off??
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I bought the NOS pads from Chris Witor - the DSII material pads, which are also Lockheed were just ones I've had stashed away for years - can't remember exactly where from though. I would say I would rather rub down the friction material on the pad than take metal off the backing plate, but with it being a NOS type pad, and therefore a bit asbestos-y that may be a bad move! I did a fair bit of work on backing plate strength and pad chamfer angles etc at the Nurburgring, and the thinner back plates were generally a no-no in terms of pedal feel. I'll have to leave it until after HCR now and just hope that we're kind to the brakes ("How're the brakes?" "I don't know, didn't touch them." etc). Either way, I think it needs some further investigation, so I will have to see what's what. Maybe drop the hub off the spindle too so I have better visibility of what's going on. Maybe change the discs too...
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As I said, I have NOS Lockheed pads to replace the old ones with, with new shims too. I could see the backplates of the pads were not symmetrical, but I tried them in a few different combinations. One type of pad in the NOS set were marked '.450' and another '.473' which I guess are the friction material thicknesses? Either way, I couldn't get them to seat correctly. I had the pistons pushed in flush with the caliper body, so no reason for there to be an issue there at all. As I said, I had the caliper off and cleaned it and the disc. My intention was to just do the pads for HCR, then do a full brake rebuild on the front for RBRR, new braided lines, possibly even upgrade to bigger calipers and discs etc.
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Hi all, As part of my prep for HCR I tried to replace the front brake pads, but I had some issues. I tapped the pins back out, and lifted off the retaining springs. Then I have to use a punch to tap the old pads out of the caliper, but once they had shifted a touch they came out okay. Then I took the cap off the master cylinder, and used a g-lamp with a plate to push the pistons back in. The outer one went in fine, the inner one kept bouncing back a little, but only a fraction of a mil. Seeing how rusty the caliper was I took the bolts out, caliper off and gave it a good wire brushing, and cleaned the disk up at the same time. Gave it a spin and couldn't see any obvious deviation in the disc. Caliper back on without too much issue, just aligning the caliper, damper, knuckle and dust shield was a pain in the backside. Got the bolts back in, torqued them to half tightness just in case it had to come off again, but no wobble. Then came the issue; I could only just get the new pads in with the shims. I have two sets, a NOS set of standard material, and a set in DSII material. I could not get either of them to fit! They would push in fine, but then I had to give them a tap to seat them. The inner pad just wouldn't go in at all, without using more force than I'd like. Once they were in, the disc was jammed absolutely solid, and even with a big lever bar across the studs I couldn't turn it. I tried a combination of the pads I had, realising the backplates aren't symmetrical, but nothing would fit properly. I wonder if anyone can give me a pointer of what the problem may be? I've done loads of brake swaps in the past, but never had this issue. I couldn't see what they were fouling on, other than the disc itself. Oh, this is on a car will running the thinner discs. In the end I had to refit the old pads. Not ideal, but they should see us through HCR, but will definitely need doing before RBRR.
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Hi Josh, I know it's not much, and you may have a change from standard set up, but remember the brake back plates need to go in there. Only an extra mil each side or so (not sure how thick the back plates are...)
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Hi Colin, My buddy has already got a charger, strapped it onto a standard intake manifold and running it through a 1.75" SU... Not my build, but it's just about farting about, it's not trying to be clever.
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Hmm, weight could be an issues then, but another cousin is coming over from Canada during the summer, so 50 each...
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Oh, I just meant, what are people willing to pay for them, having no idea what these things would be sold for. I wouldn't want to buy them, get him to bring them over and find that I have no custom, and have a load of parts that no-one wants.
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What did you sell them for before Clive? Want to make sure it's worth while before I get him to order stuff. Last time he came over he brought me a load of 'Gas Monkey Garage' stuff as the overseas postage was eye watering. Annoyingly a week into his stay they announced that they would be opening an EU distribution centre to save on shipping costs!
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My cousin might be coming over in the summer from the US...
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CT Autosolo @ Gaydon: Sunday May 8th
Jonny-Jimbo replied to Tim Bancroft's topic in Comps & Motorsport
Here are the entry forms and regs that I have as downloadable files. Both entry forms, P1 and P2 are required. Not sure why it's not in the events calender or updated on the website though. -
Hi Colin, I'm not sure, I'll ask him when I see him later. Thanks for the heads up.
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Good for demisting the windscreen I'd imagine too!
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Not my car or build Clive - I wouldn't run it through a standard clutch, but it's being built on the cheap. It was going to have a Rover V8 in it but he got bored of trying to make it fit so he chucked that all out and went back to the 1300. It's odd, he's spent years spotwelding new panels in etc and is basically just chucking the engine together! I think he's just got a bit bored of it...
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I have heard if you remove one of the bolts that holds the brake back plate on, that gives you enough room to get the longer wheel stud in which can then be pulled into place with a wheel nut. Old studs would have to be removed with a hammer...
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Ah ha! That's the ticket - didn't find any when we were looking the other day. Maybe we'd just searched incorrectly. It's the one for the 1300 only, not the 1500 (bigger clutch etc). Thanks chaps - supercharged Mk3 is back on the cards!
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Are you sure on that Nick?? He measured it and it is a 6.5" clutch with a 20 spline fitting. We did some googling and found that early 1300 Dolly's used them. We found a place that can refurb the clutches, but getting one ready done will speed up his build a bit!
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A popular mod is Capri 2.8i discs (may be the same as 3L) and 16P calipers. That's what I have on my Vitesse, and has seen racing and track use with the previous owner too. I have never been short of brakes with there, even when driven hard. For cost effectiveness, it's hard to beat.
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'Superflex' are from Chris Witor, but there are other poly type bushes available. I think Chris Witor has a very good range, but it does depend on what car it is. I have the Powerflex ones in my BMW.... fine, as long as you don't mind lavender purple bushes!
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Hi All, A friend of mine (not on the forum) is after a 1300 fine spline clutch for his spitfire, but it's a single rail box. He says that it's the smaller diameter clutch, but the 20-spline fitting, rather than 10. He thinks it's from early 1300 Dolomites. Anyone have one they're willing to part with? Preferably Borg and Beck with cover, not just the pressure plate.