Jonny-Jimbo
-
Posts
1,387 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Jonny-Jimbo
-
Any chance of a photo of the seals the correct and incorrect way round? Might make a useful reference for people searching this information.
-
If you need them sending over in such a way, I'm sure someone on here will be happy to oblige - If you can get them sent to me, and pay the postage over to you I'm quite happy to do it. Can even get you a good 'Coventry' based postcard!
-
I fitted one to my mk1 Radders - I used aluminium strip to mount the fan. If you try to mount the fan to the radiator with zip ties you won't git it in or out of the car without cutting the zip ties. I couldn't be bothered with this palarva, so I made a separate mount that sandwiches between the radiator body and the vehicle body. I got the biggest fan I could and a thermostatic switch off ebay, I think it was about £50 in total.
-
That's the type I've borrowed off a friend! Thanks for the heads up. I'll get one on order this afternoon.
-
My not so local local - http://postofficevaults.co.uk/ Worth a visit if you're in Birmingham. Over 300 beers!
-
If fitting a Kent you may as well go for a Lotus Twink or BDA etc...
-
Sounds like a good friday night to me!
-
Well, I have been making pipes for my Mk1 over the weekend and I can confirm that the horse-shoe one is utterly crap. Inless you have the anvil perfectly lined up with the pipe it just squishes over at an angle. I borrowed a 400 year old Laser Tools one from a friend and each one was spot on every time. Horse shoe one is too old to go back to where I bought it, even though I only opened the box on Saturday, so I'll be keeping an eye out for one like the laser ratchet handle jobber.
-
Going back to what I said about getting my Lucas rebuilt (Although the topic has moved on, I feel this may be of interest to people reading this post anyway or have similar issues), my car had trouble starting for ages, and in fact it was off the road for over a year due to on-going running issues. In the end the issue was two fold - electronic ignition unit failure, and the worn dizzy shaft. I junked off the Lumenition unit and stuck a set of points and a condensor in and the car fired up nicely straight away after a year of problems with it cutting out etc. However, it still ran badly, which was down to the dizzy shaft wear and the little thread being damaged meaning the points weren't clamped adequately. Now the dizzy has been rebuilt I can just get in, turn the key and she fires right up.
-
I got my Lucas dizzy for my Mk1 refurbed by H+H, and I was very impressed it really was like a new unit when it came back. I had to get it done as there was play in the shaft and the little thread that held the points in was stripped too. The car runs so much better than it did before (anyone at the start of HCR would have seen how badly it was running!). From memory it was around £135 fully refurbished, which is quite a lot, but it was worth every penny.
-
I've got some seat belts from a BMW E30 that I'm turning (slowly) into an FIA spec race car. Perfect working order when removed, but of no use to me anymore. PM me if you need belts.
-
If it's a Spitfire, rather than putting on a combination of Ford parts etc, why not just upgrade the front corners (vertical link, hub, spindle, caliper carrier, caliper, disc and pad) to GT6 spec? You get your upgrade on the standard parts, and they are bolt on? All you'd need to do is undo the top two ball joint bolts, the bottom trunnion bolt and swap in and change the caliper...
-
The inlet and outlet pipes are adjustable every few degrees so you should be able to put those where you need them. The main thing you need to check for are inlet and outlet diameters and fuel pressure. I think the one on my Vitesse has 8mm inlet and outlet, which is the metric equivalent (nearly) of the original imperial pipes.
-
Make sure you use a suitable thickness of material for the blanking plate - if it's too thin then crankcase pressure can mean you end up with a leak. I've made mine out of some 1/4" thick aluminium. I have fitted a Huco filter in the boot of my Vitesse, behind the tank, with a Malpassi Filter King with pressure regulator. I also plumbed an inline fuel tap too before the pump, so if I need to split the filter out to clean it, or work on the carbs I can do so without fuel going everywhere. I've also got the inertia switch from a Rover 45, came with the harness plug and a length of wires for £8.50 posted off ebay from a breakers. Further plans include drilling and tapping in a hose off-take, or welding in a hose off-take on the blanking plate, which will then feed into an oil catch tank on the bulkhead.
-
Easiest check is low oil level, or old oil. I had a similar issue on my Vitesse. The oil was low, and not all that good, so I drained it out and then put fresh in, and it sorted it out well, although it may have been masking wear elsewhere in the box. It's the cheapest and easiest thing to try.
-
If no one plays ball I will get measurements off my spare chassis on Thursday when I'm next at my workshop.
-
We use stuff at work in our trim division called 'Sticky Stuff Remover' - it comes in yellow or white cans. It's really good, and doesn't have too many nasty chemicals in - we're not allowed to use them!
-
My Vitesse is a 6, with the correct radiator. Which is the bit in question? The mounts are on the side of radiator, and just bolt straight to the chassis.
-
They have to refund you the cost of postage, it's the law. Any item sold by mail order, that is being returned for a refund HAS to have the return cost paid for by the seller, NOT the buyer.
-
The above clearly shows square flanges on the Vitesse 1600 like you have, and round flanges on the later cars. Rimmers are trying to mug you off. Get a refund and buy from somewhere else. I can see from the Rimmers site that they charge around £200 for the incorrect propshaft, so worth nothing. Canleys for example though is around £160 for the correct one; http://www.canleyclassics.com/demoapp/?ptno=208942 (Please note, I have no connection to Canley Classics, but Dave's knowledge is up there with the best of them, and their products are good too, and are genuine enthusiasts, unlike Rimmers that are just a company selling tat to make money...)
-
Know your rights; http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/l/faulty-goods You are entitled to a refund or exchange. Vitesse 1600 (Vitesse 6) diff arrangement (Courtesy of Canley Classics) Vitesse 2000 (Vitesse Mk2) diff arrangement (Courtesy of Canley Classics) Vitesse 1600 (Vitesse 6) gearbox shaft details (Courtesy of Canley Classics) Vitesse 2000 (Vitesse Mk2) gearbox shaft details (Courtesy of Canley Classics)
-
In future avoid Rimmers would be my advice. There's enough other reputable, decent sellers out there that you don't need to use them. They're often more expensive too.
-
Another one of these ones about photos... they can tell a lot lot more! When you say they're 5mm out of centre, do you mean that the PCD is wrong (hole spacing), or are they all drilled on the wonk etc?
-
John have you been drinking?? Isn't the inlet manifold different on the 2000 engines? So the manifold sits flat even though the engine is canted over?
-
I'd either go for Canleys ones or Chris Witors's Superflex. From memory the Canley ones are one piece that you have to squooze through and the Superflex ones are two piece top-hat. Both equally acceptable designs. Avoid the cheap ebay tat ones - they won't last.