Jonny-Jimbo
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Everything posted by Jonny-Jimbo
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Who's got what to do for 2016?
Jonny-Jimbo replied to GreenV8Machine's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
MOT tomorrow! I really, really hope it passes. -
It does take a while to get accustomed to the speckled fried bacon look and smell... Or just put your proper PPE on.
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Clutch is sorted - it's got a hefty 'shove' half way through the travel, which seems to be the the diaphragm. I had Karl Dandridge down again, and having another pair of hands to bleed the clutch was very helpful (plus he knows his onions far more than I do). We just bled it out a bit more, and the biting point is now roughly mid-way and more progressive. Ideal.
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CT Essex Winter Rally, 6th Nov, Entries Open.
Jonny-Jimbo replied to sparky_spit's topic in Comps & Motorsport
I think the next one may be my 12 car - is that cheating to take part in my own event?? -
Hi Ted, I know the mechanicals are, or should be good. Clutch wasn't badly worn at all, and whilst I had the box out I had the cross shaft etc out for cleaning up and inspection and it was all okay. I fitted a new tapered bolt and lockwired it too. As the pedal doesn't feel right I'm 99% sure this is still a hydraulic issue.
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CT Essex Winter Rally, 6th Nov, Entries Open.
Jonny-Jimbo replied to sparky_spit's topic in Comps & Motorsport
Rich, depending on what happens wth my car and RBRR, it may be we could team up if Matt isn't available? -
Cheers Dave, I'll see what it's like when I have it off later.
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Yeah, fair point Colin. I have one of those mini-honing stones, so if I have the master cylinder off it may be a good ideal to get ti off properly and clean it up. I've ordered a seal kit and new spring from Chris Witor - requested he posted it ASAP, and I got an email a few minutes later saying it had been shipped 1st class. Hopefully that means I'll have it by the weekend if not before. I was thinking about that too Colin - when I build my estate up, I'm considering using other masters with remote reservoirs. That car will not be original, so it doesn't matter to me. Dave, the 2000 is fantastic, because the slave cylinder bolts onto a bracket, which is bolted to the engine back plate. But, due to the way it bolts on, you have to remove the bracket, and not the cylinder. Why they did it that way is beyond me.
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Right, turns out it's all still to sh!t. Engine was running like a bag of turds. Well, first of all it wouldn't run at all as it turned out the points were set shut. Re-set them and at least it would fire. Running terribly, so I think the timing is way out. Also, the clutch is right down on the floor. I'm assuming hydraulics (Low biting point is hydraulics, high biting point is clutch wear), Had a word with Dave (davidb5964 lives two doors down from me - helpful!) and I hear that the Lockheed master cylinders are known for breaking internal springs? That seems like a PITA to fix. Do you have to strip all the internals out, or could I do it by removing the pedal and the pushrod from inside the car? I guess it would make sense that the internal spring could break, being as I was compressing the clutch against the flywheel bolts? It's getting close to RBRR, but it's not over until the fat lady sings... and I think she's warming up in the wings now...
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CT Essex Winter Rally, 6th Nov, Entries Open.
Jonny-Jimbo replied to sparky_spit's topic in Comps & Motorsport
You might be able to coerce someone to do it on RBRR!! -
CT Essex Winter Rally, 6th Nov, Entries Open.
Jonny-Jimbo replied to sparky_spit's topic in Comps & Motorsport
Entry is in the digital post Mike. -
Changed the rear brakes yesterday again, being as the old ones were contaminated. I'd never had this happen before, so it was new to me. The rear brakes have been apart more in the last few months than the whole life time of the car I think! I also realised I'd put a return spring on the wrong way round, so the passenger side got done twice. Oh well. Still, new shoes on, adjusted them up again and the brakes work really well now. The handbrake travel is high, and there's not much adjustment left in the cables... Hope the MOT man is okay with high travel, even with it being very effective. I noticed after taking the old shoes off that they were starting to delaminate in a few placed, possibly due to the soaking in brake fluid? I then removed the CD player and speaker - in the workshop move I've lost the face plate, and I can't be bothered with buying a new one and wiring it in before RBRR. So, for now, that bit of the dash will remain empty and just be used as nick-nack storage. I was going to build a cubby-box to slot in there, but to be honest, I can't be bothered. I got the car fired up and I have drive, so I put the car together. This evening I'll drop her onto the wheels and do a quick road-test all being well!
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Did a bit more playing yesterday - got around an inch or so of movement at the slave, and the pedal is pretty light - but that's compared to how it was when I was also trying to push down the flywheel bolts haha! I junked off the dash rheostat and linked all the wires together with a joiner I made up. I then moved the electric fan switch to where the rheostat was so I could then remove the bracket under the dash. Luckily all the wires were long enough so I didn't have to re-wire anything else. Whilst I had the dash apart, I also plumbed in the oil pressure gauge and rev counter that I've made a 'pod for' - it needs tidying up, or even making again, but that can be done after RBRR now. I also re-wired the clock which had stopped working. I then made up a loom with back lights built in to illuminate said dials. After the drivers briefing I checked the hydraulics again and all seemed okay, bolted in the Impreza seats and re-fitted the seatbelts, Then I set the points gap and did the tappets, and fitted the Magnecor leads that Mike Bishop ordered for me. Annoyingly after doing all of this electrical work (and testing all the lights etc too) the battery was too flat to start the car! I put it on charge last night, so I'll be back there this evening to see if she'll go or not
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Hi all, I'm not going to bother cleaning the old ones - I have a new set in a box somewhere so I'll just use those. I was asking as I didn't know if they actually needed changing or not. I'll keep the old ones for re-lining though.
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Hi all, On my rear brakes, after the wheel cylinder failed, the brake shoes got soaked in brake fluid. Should I change them for new ones or will they be okay?
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I remembered just before the drivers briefing yesterday that I actually had an Easy-Bleed thing in a box somewhere - last time I used it it blew the seals out of the master cylinder on one of my BMWs, so I junked it off. I gave it a go, and sure enough, it bled the clutch and rear wheel cylinders in seconds.
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Hmm, still having issues - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder has lots of tiny, tiny bubbles coming through constantly and so does the clutch slave, even having drawn through a litre of fluid from the clutch (obviously with regular top ups!), as you said Dave, I might try getting a second set of legs over the weekend to help finish the bleeding.
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Hmm, glad it's not just me then. I never thought of using the syringe on it actually, other than using it to fill the slave up so there is less air in the first place. One of the guys in another workshop where mine is has a vac bleeder that runs off the compressor. I may see if he's around and give that a go.
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Heli-Coil fitted, was a simple job really which was nice. I did a test piece on a lump of aluminium billet I had knocking around to try out the kit, but it all seemed simple. I've noticed that a lot of time you buy tools now they don't come with instructions at all - same with a brake pipe flaring kit I bought a while ago... So, there were some successes and some failures - The whole time I've had the car, the speedo cable wasn't held in well, and as it turns out, wasn't routed correctly. Now it is, it doesn't need a zip-tie to hold it off the exhaust. I also tried bleeding the clutch too - it wasn't having any of it. I don't know if the clutches are always hard to bleed on these or what, but I hardly got any fluid movement. On top of that, when it finally did come through it was leaking from the thread of the inlet pipe on the slave cylinder. Grrrrrr. I even made sure it was all clean etc. I've 'nipped' it up a touch, and will try again this evening - if that fails then it'll be pipe back off and double check I guess. I might use a syringe or something to fill the slave cylinder. It was very effective using a 200ml syringe to fill the gearbox oil with a bit of pipe on the end to get it in the hole (giggity).
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Helicoil kit ordered, a variety of sizes in the kit, Comes to £60, so not ideal, but could be worse, and a useful tool to have really. Should be delivered on Thursday, so all being well I'll still get the car MOT'd before the drivers meeting!
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Right, to further complicate matters, the bolt that holds the speedo cable in has stripped the thread out of the gearbox casing. Now I need to work out if I should helicoil it or drill it and tap it for a different bolt. Anyone else had this issue, and what solution did you come to?
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Really? It's never been like that the whole time I have had the car! I'll change it if I have time...
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I got the flywheel and everything back in on Saturday - I got fed up of waiting for the new bolts from Chris Witor so I cleaned the threads up well and used a lot of Loctite, hopefully they will hold. I'm intending to rebuild the Mk2 type engine in my Vitesse soon, so when the bolts eventually arrive they can go into that, so it's not a waste of money at all. As I'm a weedy bloke I'm not able to bench press the gearbox into place, so I made a jig to lift the box on my trolley jack. It was all formed from Dexion, and bolted to the solid rear mount on the overdrive and then cupped the flat bit of the casting where the clutch rod is. I then welded up a plate that sat under the balance point of the gearbox, with a turned spigot of a steel billet that dropped into the hole on the trolley jack where the 'cup' normally locates. This worked a treat for lifting the box, but unfortunately it also limited rotation, which meant the box didn't quite locate where it was meant to. So, box back out... Then on Sunday Karl Dandrige popped over to see my new unit, and he lent a hand. In very quick succession, with his experience of 'magic fingers' as he likes to put it, the box was in. I learned a lot from that having never actually fitting a box when I worked for him years ago. The cradle jobbo will be kept for 'bench work' on the box to keep it stable etc, but I won't use it again for fitting the box to the car. Oh well. Will, after getting the box in, the mounts went back in, starter motor, prop etc. Exhaust back on tonight and then bleed clutch and we'll have a running and drive car again! I'm not 100% sure on the routing of the speedo drive - does that look right? Seems to hang down more than I'd expect?
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CT Essex Winter Rally, 6th Nov, Entries Open.
Jonny-Jimbo replied to sparky_spit's topic in Comps & Motorsport
My car still has no flywheel, clutch, gearbox etc etc etc. -
On the 2012 event we used nothing chemical wise to keep going - if you're tired, don't drive, it's that simple. Well, I say 'no chemicals' we had tea at some of the stops, but by no means all of them. It's also absolutely crucial that drivers are honest about their tiredness levels. One of the reasons that my Dad isn't on the Fallowell team anymore was because he was too stubborn and saying he wasn't tired when he clearly was. Also, to help sleep, if you can, get your head below the window line - I found if I could get my head down the noise wasn't as bad... except you could hear the broken diff mount knocking more!!!