Gt6s
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Everything posted by Gt6s
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Nick_Jones wrote:That'll solve the 3.27 problem. Most likely by busting it! Unless you can manage substantial self-control in first and second gear! Sounds like a fine plan otherwise! :) Nick 3.63 is the right diff for a 1500. As for the 2.7 motor on 3.27 have the recovery vehicle on speed dial. Laurence
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timbancroft61 wrote: I have driven a Triumph 2000 mk1 with a tuned 2000cc six triumph engine but fitted with ECU controlled ignition and fuel injection and found the car to be almost modern in comparison with my own 2.5. In total agreement with that statement, full engine management modernises an old Triumph engine. Don't rule it out.
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heraldcoupe wrote:When buying, I'm always been suspicious of mechanical units with bits removed leaving openings unsealed. It can be blocked with a bit of rag I know, but expect cynicism from bidders, Cheers, Bill. When I was looking a replacement BMW 6 pot, breakers were looking £ 400 for hundred thousand milers. I bought a thirty thousand miler with its head off (had come from a write off) and completely covered in crap for sixty quid out of a free ads paper CRACKING ENGINE. You cannot judge a book by its cover. Laurence
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796 wrote:there should also be a blanking plug at end of splines. but some times they no there so ye pump grease in, just forit to come oot the end, so check first see if its there, M Correct and sometimes when you pump grease in that end cap pops out, the reason there may not be one.
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You can shorten the dashpot ( only the front carb needs doing ) enough to clear the bonnet don't forget the inner damper tube and piston rod need cutting by the same amount. This is the way I did it on my Sixfire. Laurence
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6485 wrote:Of course, if you can keep both wheels on the road do you really need a limited slip diff? I used to think that too my modified rear suspension Gt6 grips like a grippy thing. I fitted a Quaife for reinforcement reasons not expecting an improvement in grip levels. I was pleasently supprised when I discovered a great improvement powering through corners. Laurence
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Black
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Richard_B wrote: Rotoflex spring outer clamps are C shaped (presumably beaten into place) rather than the bolt affairs seen on other springs. Richard it was the swing spring I was refering to as when used over rotoflex couplings they hit the coupling. Easily removed while spring dismantled just grind the head off the rivet and punch it out. Laurence
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I got one from Chic Doig some years ago, it was a Spitfire one but he got the fuel filler hole pressed into it ( or should that be pressed out of it ? ) Worth a phone call to see if he can still get this done. Laurence
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Did I hear my name being used in vain ? Yeah I have swing spring over rotoflex without rotoflexes ( Sliding steel shafts ) and it works very well indeed. If going this route you will need to build up a hybrid spring with a fixed spring main leaf in the swing spring. Failing to do this will create excessive negative camber. Also ( If using roto couplings ) you need to remove the two outer alignment clamps. Laurence
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I have a Quaife in my EFI car I have just bought another from Quaife as I am reserecting my old 2.5 carbed car. I consider them a labour saving device. Memories of spending too may hours changing busted differentials and cold wet nights by the roadside. BTW the diff in the EFI car (3.63) has had dogs abuse with no issues. Laurence
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mpbarrett wrote: that changes the diff cogs but do you keep the same pinion and crown wheel? It will be interesting to see whats broken in mine when I get it back. regards mike It will be the differential unit it'self. I recently had similar discussion with Tim Curry on a US forum. He had blown up a 3.63 with a Quaife. Turned out his had blown the crown wheel and pinion Quaife was undamaged. CWP most probably blew because he was putting 240 horses through it, Honda S2000 motor. As previously said the one in my 2600 EFI car has had dogs abuse. Autotests, track work and doing donuts in the yard at work. that was untill the boss walked out of the cloud of tyre smoke and said "Laurence would you please stop doing that" Quote cleaned up. Laurence
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mpbarrett wrote: My 2.5L OD GT6 (mk3) had a 3.89 originally and got very very noisy, changed to a secondhand 3.63 and it broke, brought a new reconditioned 3.63 and that broke after 2 years.... not sure what to do next. I think the torque from a 2.5L is at the limit of the diffs or I have been unlucky? Or maybe you accept that the diff is a consumable and after every second oil change you should change the diff :) cheers mike mike Fit a Quaife to a 3.63 unit. I have just bought another one for my old 2.5 carb car. Allready have one in the EFI motor it has had dogs abuse. Tip. Do not buy one off evilbay go direct to Quaife. Laurence
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That was'nt actually a recomendation it's just wot I used. Try and get some machine enamel. Laurence
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7801 wrote:Cheers for the advice guys. GT6s- What did you paint the links with? Do you have a link to the stuff? Where would people recommend for bearings etc? cheers Just black stuff out of the nearest motor factors. Laurence
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Gt6s wrote:I am currently fiting a set to my old Gt6, the EFI car allready has a set. Yes paint them the vertical links are unprotected forged steel my sets started surface rusting from just being handled, the spherical bearing carrier will be allright they are zink plated. Yes fit new bushes while you are at it. Yes fit new bearings. Would not worry about hubs, originals are up to the job. Laurence zink ? no ZINC. And I used to work a zinc plating plant !
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I am currently fiting a set to my old Gt6, the EFI car allready has a set. Yes paint them the vertical links are unprotected forged steel my sets started surface rusting from just being handled, the spherical bearing carrier will be allright they are zink plated. Yes fit new bushes while you are at it. Yes fit new bearings. Would not worry about hubs, originals are up to the job. Laurence
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Richard_B wrote:Yes MG is MkII PI. If original then yes whould have the 132bhp cam and be a 2500. Although if in a GT6 it may have had 2000 components installed. If it has a GT6 sump then it is a 2000, if it has a deepened sump then could be a 2.5. Dave Picton has been known to put 2.5's in GT6's and Spitfires. Gt6 sumps only need a few dents to clear the 2500's rod caps. I have also been known to put 2.5s in GT6's and Spitfires as have many others. Laurence
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DJB_Harvey wrote:If the MG block starts with 21 it's early 132BHP PI .. Dosent follow, I have MG 855 a mate has MG 75 both early 132 bhp engines. Both were fitted with the elusive cross drilled cranks Laurence
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If they are late PI and 2500S then they are both the same spec. Not that there is anything particularly wrong with 2500S or late PI motors for what they are. It is just they have deep chambered heads and poorer cams. You can allways skim the heads and fit better cams. But remember you will need to use shorter push rods. Laurence
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2402 wrote: If so where did you get the nuts from. They look quite short. Just what im after. Chris. These what you are looking for Chris ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16x-Shallow-Slimline-Open-Ended-Wheel-Nuts-M12-x-1-25-Nissan-Subaru-/280978993336?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item416ba730b8 Laurence
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Nice Marcus an out of focus ruler even with my glasses on. Fx sake Marcus it is 12 years since I put M12's in the Gt6 EFI car and 14 since I put them on the Sixfire so my memory is fading a little on the subject. But have a set to do on my old carb'd GT6. L
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Sounds like fun.
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7952 wrote:I find it interesting that you have the smaller brake master cylinder, and the bubble on the bulkhead for the larger reservoir is on the LH side by the hole for the fuse holder like the LH drive cars. Is it that way for all of the RH drive cars? Yup that's wot they are like. Laurence
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63mm that's long and looking at photograph quite a long unthreaded shank too, are you using spacers ? I got a set from Canleys recently and they are 43mm and those will certainly be more than long enough, and no long shank on them either. And you wo'nt need a champher on them just as I previously mentioned a single flat on the edge of the head of the stud. Laurence