Matt306

Dremel was applied to the side of bushes. The springs did look a little underwhelming though

Dizzy weights freed some time ago. I do come out of OD coming up hills.... perhaps i need a 6 pot 1600

The Starter motor failed tonight leading to a tow truck to get me home. I have opened her up and found the bushes burnt. These aren't old bushes and not long fitted. They were a tightish fit and i suspect the old springs aren't working like they should pushing the bushes up to make contact making an arc and burning the contacts. I have cleaned it all off and its fine again cranking at good speed.

Anyone know where to get the springs?

Oh my starter doesnt look like the herald one on Canleys , looks more like the dynamo.

Greenstuff been in for a few day and with the standard steel disc definite upgrade ...

I have the standard Stromberg Carb CD 150 I suspect i need to remove the main jet and needle to check? In actual fact thinking about it i brought a refurb kit for the CD150 with seals and jets etc marketed for the Herald so should be ok.

I took the dizzy to bits the weights were stuck but not any more. The vacuum advance holds a vacuum (I tested it with vac pump)

I like your thoughts on MOT test.

One of the problems i find is a lack of oomph coming up the hills. It might be the 40 yr old engine which only had 60HP new or perhaps the OD gearbox and 3:89 diff.

Just getting the best out of the standard Herald 1300 engine... when i say standard, it has got a spitfire head on (previous owner) and electronic ignition.

Quoted from cliftyhanger

I would be checking the distributor is working correctly. You need a timing light,and check that the timing advances wit revs, and that connecting/disconnecting the vac advance again affects the timing (more advance with it connected!)
When fuelling is correct, set the timing by ear. Take the car for a drive and ideally up an incline see if the car "pinks". If not advance the timing and keep doing so until the car does pink up an incline, then retard it just enough so it doesn't. That setting is as good as you will get, the factory spec may no longer be relevant as everything is worn a bit, fuels are different and who knows what components have been swapped over the years.

To get fuelling correct, it is done by lifting the carb piston a couple of mm. If the speed rises, too rich. If it slows, too weak. If it rises a little and stays, it is correct. The changes are small!  Regularly rev to clear the engine. And make sure it is all warmed up well before you start.
There are aids to tuning, colourtune, and CO sensors up to wideband AFR meters. But simple does work!

Quoted from JohnD

Not the first time to be asked.  Here's three, easily found:

Sorry , link no longer available

http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6968-herald-1360-tuning-options/

http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/131605/herald-tuning

Good luck!
John

Thanks JohnD

OK I have a 1360 engine with Spit head, standard Stromberg CD125 Carb. How do you all go about checking the fuel mix is good.

I have a normal dizzy with electronic ignition.

Ok it runs and drives ok, but recently I seem to be drinking fuel. I want to run through things but what is the opinion, valves first then carb, or carb dizzy then valves.... a bit of expert advice appreciated.

Quoted from ferny

You may not think brake fluid will make much difference, but it does. For years I used the Halfords own-brand stuff but found braking deteriorated after around 3 months. It was still fine to use, but I noticed a difference to the pedal feel. I moved to Pagid as others have said and was happy. Took around 11 months for the same to happen to it. Currently I use Millers 5.1 and it's superior in every way. I won't be swapping to another. My fluids get changed on a 12 month(ish) cycle.

As to asbestos pads. I'd say the ones I used were almost as good as the 1144's. Perhaps age had impacted their performance? I did also get them to fade at Donnington and I found as they were thin you could make them fade on the road.

I'd only recommend 1144's now to others. You may be happy with your Green Stuff, some people are. If you swapped to 1144's you'd probably like them more. According to that tool I should be using YellowStuff... Apparently even OrangeStuff if I go on track. Either way, the Green Stuff aren't "cheap pads" and won't cause you to crash. You'll still be able to lock your wheels up with them if needed.

Quoted from JohnD

VENTED discs better use of your money.

Quoted from JohnD

good point, well made.
But it's not the engine that stops the car.
John

Quoted from JohnD

Emotive!?  

You shared your opinion of " bargain basement" brake pads, and I shared mine!
Never suggested anyone bought race pads, only what suited their driving.

Ifyoumust use EBC, trh their pad type selection questionnaire: https://ebcbrakes.com/ebc-brake-pad-selector-tool/

John

Just for clarity it was only once I felt the brakes needed an upgrade that was on the RBRR and that was only once on the whole trip when coming off Dartmoor. When the brakes cooled off they were fine again.

Ferny suggested better fluid, I use bog standard stuff clean and new like the rest of the components. Nice firm feel on the pedal.


Anyway if they are rubbish I'll let you all know.

Thing is I'm not even going to the Alps

Oh good on you Clive.

I only posted originally to advise the price for other CT members. I didn't realise some people would get so emotive over a set of brake pads.

I only drive on road, no race circuits so going to try the green stuff they are for light cars for road use. As above there has been one recommendation on a vitesse.

For what I use my Herald for they are fine... It's a stuffing Herald if it gets to 80 it's a miracle...I could try ceramic brakes but I think that would be a waste for a 60hp car. Even with bargain basement pads from Canleys I've found fine for everyday use. I leave a decent braking distance respecting the car and conditions.
I based my decision on use of car and cost...

Quoted from ferny

He means the cheapest price for those pads... Bloody hell.

Anyway, hope you like them. Same as Nick, I wasn't a fan near ten years ago. They used to work best with drilled or slotted discs as they're very gassy. No experience since the compound change.

I'd also consider replacing your brake fluid with better quality. It might make a marked improvement.

I thought so , thought i would put it out there, there Weekend12 offer doesnt have long to run

Having done RBRR and found the braking coming off Dartmoor with bargain basement pads slightly 'ropey' I have ordered some Greenstuff pads. EBC list these as part number DP2114 https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/triumph/herald-13-60/1.3-1967-1971/13554

Carpart4less with the weekend12 code allowed me to get these ordered and delivered for a shade over £25 which is the cheapest i have found. Just putting it out there for sharing.

Two of us would... It was our first , I had grand ideas of not using Satnav, we didnt but wish we had!

Quoted from RobPearce

Ironically, a really good strong spark can lead to the "weak starting" problem. If the spark fires the first cylinder over compression (or the second) then it's likely to have less than a full air charge, because it started half way up the compression stroke (or down the intake stroke with very poor fuel mixing).

Does the problem happen when cold, hot, always? You may find a bit of fiddling with choke settings might help. I've had more than one Triumph that needed careful adjustment - the GT6 wants absolutely full choke for a cold start but immediately needs it half way in to keep running.