Matt306

No bore marks.

I did my first last time, 50th anniversary good time to start, i plan to do the next. It will be in the Herald or a soon to be acquired Spit, depends which engine works best.... its not the Herald at the moment though.

You aren't wrong in getting on with it, I was in the garage and the head is now off. I put photos in this folder; https://photos.app.goo.gl/ekn5ny4gBDwi2skg1 Head off https://photos.app.goo.gl/mN2SAaQJuGeDF2702       https://photos.app.goo.gl/LH9t.....gl/vzqfFQ6DBQHLugTh2 Underside of head note the two lighter coloured valves ??? https://photos.app.goo.gl/l26ZznD72q8MLsAK2 I think there is thick black soot from the EP90 oil i tipped down the bores earlier.   There is a slight browning on the edge of number two . Sign of a leak? The top of the piston has a lip from the piston wear. Anyway thoughts, before i take the sump off for the second time in as many months!

Couple more... Looking at the white smoke I am erring too piston ring. Which is blooming annoying as I only took the sump off two weeks ago. https://youtu.be/8oKBVI5rjOU https://youtu.be/Wk-AaGNxrJ8

Here's the you tube video. https://youtu.be/zJaOxvrWlzw

Either way it's head off time I guess? Going to up load a video to YouTube with her running see if u hear what I hear.

Cheers all. But some ep90 down the bored and all the compressions rose. From 150 to 250 or over on 1,3 and 4. Number 2 went up from 90 to 150 so a smaller rise so I am thinking valve stuck. I had the stems and new valves about 4000 miles ago . I guess it's head off time to grind in valve or is there an easier way. Or is my thinking to cock?

I'll stick some transmission oil down piston two and try that. I had the sump off and the checked the rad, no sign of fluids being in the wrong place.

My little four pot (which i will swap out for a six cylinder sometime next year/year after/maybe year after that) seems to have developed a little lack of power. I have done the tappets to get a little stiff pull on the tappets when feeding in 10thou feeler and pulling back. I did a cold pressure test and got 150/90/150/150 psi on the pistons. I know its meant to be done warm so went for a drive and run again and the offending chamber has now risen to 100 psi. Not noticing any coolant leak but would like to sort the problem. Most obvious is remove the head and have a look but is there anything i can look at prior to that

Didnt measure the crank, as i have a 1600 engine to replace the 4pot lump. I need to refurb and rebuild this one so the change of bearing is a quickish fix. Getting 50 PSI at 3000 RPM so not worried at speed.

Didnt measure the crank, as i have a 1600 engine to replace the 4pot lump. I need to refurb and rebuild this one so the change of bearing is a quickish fix. Getting 50 PSI at 3000 RPM so not worried at speed.

I have replaced the bearing mains and Big ends on my Herald. Pressure when cold has risen, when hot though its not much better than before. I took the oil pump to bits when the sump was off, the rotors were within tolerance but there had certainly been swarf through the pump as it was marked. I lightly rubbed it down and replaced. I think this was a mistake. Looking at oil pumps for the herald like at rimmers https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GLP145 mine doesnt look like that its a long tube with no gauze on the pickup. http://www.mevspares.co.uk/OIL-PUMP-Triumph-Herald-1959-71.html  Canleys has a bent pipe illustrated on there pump mine isnt bent. None of the pumps at Paddocks have straight pipes with no gauze over the pick up. Has anyone any knowledge of this type of pump?

I have replaced the bearing mains and Big ends on my Herald. Pressure when cold has risen, when hot though its not much better than before. I took the oil pump to bits when the sump was off, the rotors were within tolerance but there had certainly been swarf through the pump as it was marked. I lightly rubbed it down and replaced. I think this was a mistake. Looking at oil pumps for the herald like at rimmers https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GLP145 mine doesnt look like that its a long tube with no gauze on the pickup. http://www.mevspares.co.uk/OIL-PUMP-Triumph-Herald-1959-71.html  Canleys has a bent pipe illustrated on there pump mine isnt bent. None of the pumps at Paddocks have straight pipes with no gauze over the pick up. Has anyone any knowledge of this type of pump?

Think so Nick. Now just got to get it tuned up. Lack of power up hill. I have u/l seats a spitfire cylinder head (on the engine when i got it)  should i set the timing to different to 9 BTDC. Whats the best way of setting the timing. I have a a Gunson timing light with variable advance setting i have one mark on the pulley and one timing mark on the timing chain cover.

Got it all back together the pressure is steady at 50psi plus when driving on idle dropping to just under 25psi.

Took the oil pump off its clearly had swarf through there as the rotors are scored. The rotors are within the measurements as per haynes manual should i replace. The oil pressure at cold was good at hot it was poor but hopefully new bearings will change that. I will obvs clean the sump out at replace filter before filling with fresh oil

Luckily I only have one Carb. I think I may try the tune up on the car until the 6 cylinder is done. The six needs a skim U/L valves crank grind , Rad recore, dizzy, carb rebuild so a bit of a long term project. Plus i  have a Spit MkIV inbound. Bearings arrived , centre and rear bearing complete. Thrust washer was replaced as well... for the price of £6 might as well. And good job too, far less movement now. The old surface had some of it cracked away. Two more pistons and front bearing to complete, then torque it all up.  Seal up that sump , new oil filter, new oil... vrooom

I have had the sump off for a couple of days now so only a few drops left. I tested the compression in the engine last year it was quite good I'll get the bearing done and report back as to worn pistons. Thinking the lack of oomph going up hill might be due to the overdrive box which and 3.89 diff. Maybe I need to check timing etc Thanks for your help and advice as ever.

Think that is treating the symptoms rather than the cause. Any tips for getting the top half of the shell out with the engine in situe. I was thinking drifting them around.... carefully

Heres my bearing from my little Herald engine https://photos.app.goo.gl/gcjxpqbxZheRIwE73 as you can see well and truly shot. The crank has some mark but i'll live with it until i get the 1600 engine done. Query do worn bearing effect performance?

Thanks guys the big ends and mains are both standard, so i think i'll treat her to tri metal bearings for the price difference- or is this just a waste of £20?

Following on from my bearings, I dropped the sump of the herald today concerned by the low oil pressure at idle when hot. Yes the mains are shot little bit of scoring on the bearing journal looks ok from under neath no oil ridge in the centre. I am planning on swapping the engine for the 1600 lump at some point in the future. In the mean time want to keep the Herald going so going to just bung in some new bearings at £17 they are throw away price from Canleys anyway. My query is should the main bearing bolts and big end cap bolts be replaced as a matter of course or can they be re used. I checked Haynes and no mention of using new ones.

Going to get the block dipped. It has been say for some time and has rust evidence and clean the oil galleries out some thick gunk in the bottom end. I'll get a measure from my friendly mechanic at the back of mine. Hoping be posting rings will do the trick.

Got the crank out this morning no scoring apart from the ridges on the two centre Mains. The outside Mains don't have any ridges at all. With the pistons out there is a slight lip at the top of the bore presumably where the piston rings reach.

Grrrr more money