Matt306

Still doing the repairs. On the exhaust on Number 2 piston the valve guide is worn. These were replace about 4000 miles ago. Any reason why it would wear so quickly? Any tips on replacing them?

True, perhaps I should try them hot to cut out chatter and see the difference.

silvery oil sounds like something is breaking up in the OD. The OD works on a Cam on the Mainshaft driving a pump, when the solenoid engages it lifts a ball bearing and lets the fluid into two pistons pushing them forward against springs and pulling the cone clutch forward. A low pressure may cause this, and this can be shimmed, could be your pump on its way our which to replace could be done from under neath. The manual talk of a special tool..... however i botched something with a 1/2" pipe union to remove mine. I would check the solenoid and electrics first.

I think not as even on cold got low compression and there is a 10thou gap on the valve, and there is nothing keeping it open now and its leaking. Checked Haynes and the manual say " The valve adjustments should be made with the engine cold..."

I got my friendly mechanic to have a look tonight, he suggested inverting the head and filling the combustion chambers with WD40, if they leak then we know its a valve leak. Inverted and filled them all only chamber 2 leaked WD40, finger down the manifold holes and they are all dry apart from Exhaust No2 Cylinder. He also spotted a slight browning (possible water leak) on the 3/4 gasket space, only weeping. Pics here again https://photos.app.goo.gl/jpyj9GUoabzVVI0t1 https://photos.app.goo.gl/5S4SGKe6r1emdjtB2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/fFxFZSWI0y1skfRM2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/2w1kiBUSkqeG6JFm1

I thought tappets were a cold job... Especially with burning fingers.

The head had new valves and stems and seats and skim before the car was recommissioned. No more than 4000 miles ago. I did do a wet test with oil as above the thinking was as the pressure rose slightly it was not the valve. It's simple enough to grind the valve again as the head off.

I tested compression before the RBRR last year can all four pistons we around the 150 mark. I don't know when the pistons we last out though. For that matter I don't know if 150 psi is good or bad on the others.

Thanks for the reply. I didn't notice any issues with gasket and head was skimmed a while ago with no over heating issues since. I haven't noticed oil in water or vice versa. Could probably do with a rebore though. I'll do the oil measure. I've never had pistons out so rings could be shot.

No bore marks.

I did my first last time, 50th anniversary good time to start, i plan to do the next. It will be in the Herald or a soon to be acquired Spit, depends which engine works best.... its not the Herald at the moment though.

You aren't wrong in getting on with it, I was in the garage and the head is now off. I put photos in this folder; https://photos.app.goo.gl/ekn5ny4gBDwi2skg1 Head off https://photos.app.goo.gl/mN2SAaQJuGeDF2702       https://photos.app.goo.gl/LH9t.....gl/vzqfFQ6DBQHLugTh2 Underside of head note the two lighter coloured valves ??? https://photos.app.goo.gl/l26ZznD72q8MLsAK2 I think there is thick black soot from the EP90 oil i tipped down the bores earlier.   There is a slight browning on the edge of number two . Sign of a leak? The top of the piston has a lip from the piston wear. Anyway thoughts, before i take the sump off for the second time in as many months!

Couple more... Looking at the white smoke I am erring too piston ring. Which is blooming annoying as I only took the sump off two weeks ago. https://youtu.be/8oKBVI5rjOU https://youtu.be/Wk-AaGNxrJ8

Here's the you tube video. https://youtu.be/zJaOxvrWlzw

Either way it's head off time I guess? Going to up load a video to YouTube with her running see if u hear what I hear.

Cheers all. But some ep90 down the bored and all the compressions rose. From 150 to 250 or over on 1,3 and 4. Number 2 went up from 90 to 150 so a smaller rise so I am thinking valve stuck. I had the stems and new valves about 4000 miles ago . I guess it's head off time to grind in valve or is there an easier way. Or is my thinking to cock?

I'll stick some transmission oil down piston two and try that. I had the sump off and the checked the rad, no sign of fluids being in the wrong place.

My little four pot (which i will swap out for a six cylinder sometime next year/year after/maybe year after that) seems to have developed a little lack of power. I have done the tappets to get a little stiff pull on the tappets when feeding in 10thou feeler and pulling back. I did a cold pressure test and got 150/90/150/150 psi on the pistons. I know its meant to be done warm so went for a drive and run again and the offending chamber has now risen to 100 psi. Not noticing any coolant leak but would like to sort the problem. Most obvious is remove the head and have a look but is there anything i can look at prior to that

Didnt measure the crank, as i have a 1600 engine to replace the 4pot lump. I need to refurb and rebuild this one so the change of bearing is a quickish fix. Getting 50 PSI at 3000 RPM so not worried at speed.

Didnt measure the crank, as i have a 1600 engine to replace the 4pot lump. I need to refurb and rebuild this one so the change of bearing is a quickish fix. Getting 50 PSI at 3000 RPM so not worried at speed.

I have replaced the bearing mains and Big ends on my Herald. Pressure when cold has risen, when hot though its not much better than before. I took the oil pump to bits when the sump was off, the rotors were within tolerance but there had certainly been swarf through the pump as it was marked. I lightly rubbed it down and replaced. I think this was a mistake. Looking at oil pumps for the herald like at rimmers https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GLP145 mine doesnt look like that its a long tube with no gauze on the pickup. http://www.mevspares.co.uk/OIL-PUMP-Triumph-Herald-1959-71.html  Canleys has a bent pipe illustrated on there pump mine isnt bent. None of the pumps at Paddocks have straight pipes with no gauze over the pick up. Has anyone any knowledge of this type of pump?

I have replaced the bearing mains and Big ends on my Herald. Pressure when cold has risen, when hot though its not much better than before. I took the oil pump to bits when the sump was off, the rotors were within tolerance but there had certainly been swarf through the pump as it was marked. I lightly rubbed it down and replaced. I think this was a mistake. Looking at oil pumps for the herald like at rimmers https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GLP145 mine doesnt look like that its a long tube with no gauze on the pickup. http://www.mevspares.co.uk/OIL-PUMP-Triumph-Herald-1959-71.html  Canleys has a bent pipe illustrated on there pump mine isnt bent. None of the pumps at Paddocks have straight pipes with no gauze over the pick up. Has anyone any knowledge of this type of pump?

Think so Nick. Now just got to get it tuned up. Lack of power up hill. I have u/l seats a spitfire cylinder head (on the engine when i got it)  should i set the timing to different to 9 BTDC. Whats the best way of setting the timing. I have a a Gunson timing light with variable advance setting i have one mark on the pulley and one timing mark on the timing chain cover.

Got it all back together the pressure is steady at 50psi plus when driving on idle dropping to just under 25psi.

Took the oil pump off its clearly had swarf through there as the rotors are scored. The rotors are within the measurements as per haynes manual should i replace. The oil pressure at cold was good at hot it was poor but hopefully new bearings will change that. I will obvs clean the sump out at replace filter before filling with fresh oil