Matt306

A Little bit of rebuild  advice; As with most things whice are made but Triumph the rot has got to my Spit and a RBRR race is on to replace the must repair parts. One of these is the Drivers door so as I dont have the Flintstone affect floor. The sills need doing too , not least as i can see central strengthener has been cut horizontally to and a new sill welded over the top. The area around mount over the front outrigger is shot too. I know the car is meant have a mount there, but not sure how is attached to the car/chassis. Is the mount welded to the floor or to outrigger... etc etc. A couple of pics would be appreciated Thank you! https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-front-floor/ Part 612528

I got a Bosch S4 001 on my Herald.... it has a load of power for cranking...

Last year was my first so difficult to compare, however the Weston Zoyland one did seem to be the only one where we went off route to find it, the rest all seemed to be on the route. I liked the tea and bacon buttie though so not all bad!

Dont discount worn valve guides.  I had a head done under 3000 miles later i had low compression. A valve guide was worn oval for some reason.  Check the rockers are free to move on the shaft.

It appears there is a reserve list in operation 

I'm in

i cant get on!

Three crews got free entry for being highest fundraisers last time

Was the Landy off roading ? Clearly wouldn't do this with a spit

Thinking about which poly bush to fit on my spit mk iv. I have seen prices from 180 to 48 on Ebay. I know someone will tell me there is a difference in the polyurethane used in the manufacture. However what difference is there in real life non race , road use. Is it really £132 worth of difference?

My 2018 car needs. Holes welding, Suspension rebuilds, Engine stripped rebuilt Head Skimmed and UL Valves and seats Gearbox rebuilt with OD Main shaft, Spare OD stripped rebuilt, New Brake lines Carbs Stripped and rebuilt Wipers stripped rebuilt Relays fitted for lighting. Apart from that good to go...

Developments - can't fit Rocker shaft as the screw thread isn't there. The box indicates is for and MGA/B so if that is correct I might have wrong part.

they are all a bit ridged, i'll get an oil stone and have a go. Four of the rockers are knackered on the inside though and need replacing. I have the new shaft today the holes in the tube look much bigger and no flats by the holes. Ordered it from Canleys, came from COUNTY (Made in India)

Just an update, got the valve recut and new valve guide inserted. I cant work out why only one would wear so quickly. I then stripped the rockers, which had a new shaft about 4000 miles ago the shaft is now knackered. All the inlet rockers  were showing signs of scoring. Now i do know the locating screw came out and I guess that led to oil starvation and  caused the damage. I don't know how long the screw was out but not that long. How long does it take to cause damage.

Hmm I had all 8 replaced and U/L seats put in at an engineering shop.  Valve is fine in another stem but not in this one, waggles about enough for me to know it needs fixing. Interestingly enough it is on chamber two where i had low compression issues

It waggles about well, gas signs of combustion on the valve stem too. I temporarily tried it in another stem much less movement and another valve in the guide and there was movement.

Still doing the repairs. On the exhaust on Number 2 piston the valve guide is worn. These were replace about 4000 miles ago. Any reason why it would wear so quickly? Any tips on replacing them?

True, perhaps I should try them hot to cut out chatter and see the difference.

silvery oil sounds like something is breaking up in the OD. The OD works on a Cam on the Mainshaft driving a pump, when the solenoid engages it lifts a ball bearing and lets the fluid into two pistons pushing them forward against springs and pulling the cone clutch forward. A low pressure may cause this, and this can be shimmed, could be your pump on its way our which to replace could be done from under neath. The manual talk of a special tool..... however i botched something with a 1/2" pipe union to remove mine. I would check the solenoid and electrics first.

I think not as even on cold got low compression and there is a 10thou gap on the valve, and there is nothing keeping it open now and its leaking. Checked Haynes and the manual say " The valve adjustments should be made with the engine cold..."

I got my friendly mechanic to have a look tonight, he suggested inverting the head and filling the combustion chambers with WD40, if they leak then we know its a valve leak. Inverted and filled them all only chamber 2 leaked WD40, finger down the manifold holes and they are all dry apart from Exhaust No2 Cylinder. He also spotted a slight browning (possible water leak) on the 3/4 gasket space, only weeping. Pics here again https://photos.app.goo.gl/jpyj9GUoabzVVI0t1 https://photos.app.goo.gl/5S4SGKe6r1emdjtB2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/fFxFZSWI0y1skfRM2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/2w1kiBUSkqeG6JFm1

I thought tappets were a cold job... Especially with burning fingers.

The head had new valves and stems and seats and skim before the car was recommissioned. No more than 4000 miles ago. I did do a wet test with oil as above the thinking was as the pressure rose slightly it was not the valve. It's simple enough to grind the valve again as the head off.

I tested compression before the RBRR last year can all four pistons we around the 150 mark. I don't know when the pistons we last out though. For that matter I don't know if 150 psi is good or bad on the others.

Thanks for the reply. I didn't notice any issues with gasket and head was skimmed a while ago with no over heating issues since. I haven't noticed oil in water or vice versa. Could probably do with a rebore though. I'll do the oil measure. I've never had pistons out so rings could be shot.