Matt306

Thats my Herald!

I brought a pair of D Type OD to make one decent one from. I took it to OD Spares in Rugby. Very knowledgable and helpful. I realise being in Italy this wont help but they know what they are doing. They manufacture many parts and sell them to other companies to re sell. When you say stuck, is this stuck in or wont engage.  OD are quite easy to rebuild, there are quite simple really. The pump is driven off the MS cam, which generates oil pressure. The solenoid opens a valve to let the oil press two pistons forward to engage the cone clutch against the brake ring and the OD then engages. Solenoid drops out and the reverse happens. I found a 22mm pipe fitting will assist in removing the pump. If the OD is of unknown origin it could be a host of things, from worn seals around pistons, pump not working, pressure not holding (they can be shimmed) Bearing knackered... I would open her up and have a look.  Could simply be a bit of metal blocking a small oil passage way, compressed air will sort that. I would budget for a clutch, seals and bearings. The planet gears bearing will be probably shot too as they get oil starved due to a plate on the end of the fitting. It can run with out this plate.

I couldnt see signs of a leak on the car... I'll have another look though and keep an eye. To be fare i havent been checking the reservoir, as its solid i have to take the lid off to check.

I certainly have discs up front, the clutch and brake master appear the same size.

I had a now brakes problem coming out of the garage today.  Quick investigation found no brake fluid. I attached my Gunson one man bleed kit which is pressurised, no loss of fluid from the reservoir indicating a leak. Checked the unions and all is good.  The one thing which occurred to me is that master cylinder appears to be the same size as the clutch one... i take it this is not correct? (the error in fitting a wrong size cylinder is mine as its a new one i brought, probably off ebay  one late night)

Screwfix good tip

Screwfix good tip

http://www.britishv8.org/articles/mgb-voltage-stabilizer.htm I replaced mine with a solidstate one, followed the guide above but no LED. Essentially the original was a bi metallic strip heating up and cooling down really quickly to make and break a circuit to provide around 10v. The solid state version provides 10v ... a smooth and steady voltage for your guages.

Are the two wires in the black tape attached to the unit on the right light green dark green should be for the gauges

It looks like Voltage stabiliser shape, from memory it should have a couple of wires coming off for the gauges, with it disconnected the fuel and temp gauges shouldn't work.

much difference to power?

Cheers Nick... might keep an eye out... Thinking of putting the spit 3 cam into my mkiv spit engine when it gets rebuilt worth it?

Resurrecting a very old thread.... I have a spitty head on my Herald lump (PO did it, well the valves are certainly Spitty ones double sprung.)  Suppose I get a Canleys Mk3 cam and set of Spitty carbs what sort of real world difference would it be.

Is that a twin carb poking out from under the sheet and a spitty fan

Found my body mount though... it was there... well bits of it were https://photos.app.goo.gl/qc0LrsIM16DNWoMg1 There are more pics of the work in the album

I was thinking something like this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLA.....e:g:-PMAAOSwrhBZDLi9 Is it right hand side for our four pots, not sure whether its right or left depending on engine viewing. THANK YOU to all those who took the time to reply

well the lower A post is out ! the floor most of it is cut out and the inner sill had to come off the a post to repair the a post. the nice door brace which I brought to wedge the space open then promptly loosened meaning my gap is too large.  I presume I need to ratchet the opening back together tack it and try the door. the bar I got does allow for the door to be registered though. I was in a bit of a dilemma as there ws so much rot around the a post. I should have welded a bar across.

true they still aren't worth that much ... however rubber coating to hide the rust on  a body mount point. ...

This is my floor around the A post... Rotten and badly repaired. https://photos.app.goo.gl/C3KyxjfxyLiXQFmn2 Notice all the grey stuff here its rubber filler... covering holes. The bulkhead panel has a repair panel welded in then another on the other side... Night mare! https://photos.app.goo.gl/QM6I2ZhBZRKWJFGj1

When I put the alternator in I put a couple  of extra charging wires going back to the battery from the alternator. Which mag, can you recall. Thank you everyone for the replies.

Nick ,as ever, thanks for the advice. I have hard top attached for a bit more rigidity. The front lip of floor does it extend under the front bulk head.

thanks for the reply. I noticed with spots on the volt meter dropped a little this made me think I was taxing it a little. I saw canleys do an alternator at over 100 ,wondered if anyone could recommend one which would fit but not necessarily from a triumph.

How many entries are allowed for the C2C?   I have car and co-driver just need  to book leave at work

Nick Thank you so very much that is what I need. I have a feeling mine is missing... I have the hard top on and the door braced open, i have left the door on to check for gaps. I am thinking of taking the outer sill off . The floor is mostly cut out, the bit at the front i take it the new floor goes under the bulk head front panel? Any more pics would be brilliant, I am doing it with the bod on... I didnt think there was much rust... how wrong...

Hi all I decided to put some old chrome Lucas spotlights on the front grill of my herald. Now what with the radiio, USB chargers and halogen headlights and electric fan I think my alternator may be a little underpowered. I dont know what amperage it can give as it was an ebay 'bargain' when obtained.   Anyone have any idea what would be a suitable alternator for my herald, and at a decent price, perhaps one from another old car etc ....