Matt306

Front, kit from TD Fitchetts

I have the Manual and Triumph manual with lots of Torque measurements. How tight should the Trunnion Bolts be, I assume there should be swivel movement allowed?  The Torque settings seem to get it too tight

one more 

Got some shiny new parts on the Spit. New sills both sides. Floor repair coming along on passenger side.  Rear wheel arch repairs to follow.Carbs rebuild new jets and needles  Final job is to check the engine and electrics. 

Thanks from me to... well organised and great fun very good value too .  Only one hub nut to tighten and my little Herald performed brilliantly.  Picked up a bumper on the way back for the Spitfire too. Need some more heralds and vitesses next time

it's a biggy ... I couldn't get the socket on the nut as it had worn so much. I might try the weld a plate method and then drill a hole... or just buy one for 20 off eBay 

it's a biggy ... I couldn't get the socket on the nut as it had worn so much. I might try the weld a plate method and then drill a hole... or just buy one for 20 off eBay 

I have a lower wishbone on the near side with a nice oval for a hole as opposed to a circle. I suppose I could weld a washer to the wishbone but I am thinking someone will have a reason not to... So thoughts please?   Oh the oval is the Trunnion bolt hole, but I guess you knew that!

I have a lower wishbone on the near side with a nice oval for a hole as opposed to a circle. I suppose I could weld a washer to the wishbone but I am thinking someone will have a reason not to... So thoughts please?   Oh the oval is the Trunnion bolt hole, but I guess you knew that!

Thats my Herald!

I brought a pair of D Type OD to make one decent one from. I took it to OD Spares in Rugby. Very knowledgable and helpful. I realise being in Italy this wont help but they know what they are doing. They manufacture many parts and sell them to other companies to re sell. When you say stuck, is this stuck in or wont engage.  OD are quite easy to rebuild, there are quite simple really. The pump is driven off the MS cam, which generates oil pressure. The solenoid opens a valve to let the oil press two pistons forward to engage the cone clutch against the brake ring and the OD then engages. Solenoid drops out and the reverse happens. I found a 22mm pipe fitting will assist in removing the pump. If the OD is of unknown origin it could be a host of things, from worn seals around pistons, pump not working, pressure not holding (they can be shimmed) Bearing knackered... I would open her up and have a look.  Could simply be a bit of metal blocking a small oil passage way, compressed air will sort that. I would budget for a clutch, seals and bearings. The planet gears bearing will be probably shot too as they get oil starved due to a plate on the end of the fitting. It can run with out this plate.

I couldnt see signs of a leak on the car... I'll have another look though and keep an eye. To be fare i havent been checking the reservoir, as its solid i have to take the lid off to check.

I certainly have discs up front, the clutch and brake master appear the same size.

I had a now brakes problem coming out of the garage today.  Quick investigation found no brake fluid. I attached my Gunson one man bleed kit which is pressurised, no loss of fluid from the reservoir indicating a leak. Checked the unions and all is good.  The one thing which occurred to me is that master cylinder appears to be the same size as the clutch one... i take it this is not correct? (the error in fitting a wrong size cylinder is mine as its a new one i brought, probably off ebay  one late night)

Screwfix good tip

Screwfix good tip

http://www.britishv8.org/articles/mgb-voltage-stabilizer.htm I replaced mine with a solidstate one, followed the guide above but no LED. Essentially the original was a bi metallic strip heating up and cooling down really quickly to make and break a circuit to provide around 10v. The solid state version provides 10v ... a smooth and steady voltage for your guages.

Are the two wires in the black tape attached to the unit on the right light green dark green should be for the gauges

It looks like Voltage stabiliser shape, from memory it should have a couple of wires coming off for the gauges, with it disconnected the fuel and temp gauges shouldn't work.

much difference to power?

Cheers Nick... might keep an eye out... Thinking of putting the spit 3 cam into my mkiv spit engine when it gets rebuilt worth it?

Resurrecting a very old thread.... I have a spitty head on my Herald lump (PO did it, well the valves are certainly Spitty ones double sprung.)  Suppose I get a Canleys Mk3 cam and set of Spitty carbs what sort of real world difference would it be.

Is that a twin carb poking out from under the sheet and a spitty fan

Found my body mount though... it was there... well bits of it were https://photos.app.goo.gl/qc0LrsIM16DNWoMg1 There are more pics of the work in the album

I was thinking something like this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLA.....e:g:-PMAAOSwrhBZDLi9 Is it right hand side for our four pots, not sure whether its right or left depending on engine viewing. THANK YOU to all those who took the time to reply