Matt306

Its a 74 Spit, I am thinking i may just go for a Canleys one.

oh... let me research my manual

sure I can pop some bearings in. i guess its a case of putting the mk3 shell bearings in

I have a Delco Distributor which is whining a little when cold. I guess it needs a rebuild... there arent many suppliers for the parts though.. Rimmers and Canleys only sell the main bits. Anyone point me in the direction of a supplier?

Has anyone a Mk3 Cam for a Spit MkIV

which Pratnav is this suitable for Howard?

found this https://youtu.be/Nml830yObPI figuring that is not right I now have the box on the bench. I can not remember how to get rear bearing out

found this https://youtu.be/Nml830yObPI figuring that is not right I now have the box on the bench. I can not remember how to get rear bearing out

I have my four synchro 3 rail Gearbox took it to bits, fitted new mainshaft so as to add OD. It all fitted back together and OD engaged on 3 fourth wouldnt work, but that is down to my fitting of the cam activiating the switch. The gear box was having second jump out when i lifted off yesterday. I needed a new master cylinder as the one i had was rubbish and the new seals didnt work, and then the ebay one was rubbish and the push rod was wrong length. Got a new one from fitchetts yesterday.  To take the tunnel off i usually just put the box in fourth to easy it coming out. However i couldn't get the box out of fourth with out brute force. I bled the clutch through and a firm pedal press and still it wouldn't budge. The clutch is new. I have read varying diagnosis from worn bush kit, selector rods and synchromesh, just wondered what the forum thought?

Found them!

Ok I lost the machine screws for the number plate lamp on the MkIV Spit. Anyone any ideas of size/ where i can get some.

might take a trip to honeybourne with the car. they are 50 on website a lot cheaper than plastic ones

looking at Canleys site it lists up to 63 for a tunnel and after.  I've put a pic on now. OD plate is attached

In taking my spit IV to pieces the gearbox tunnel needed replacing. No worries thought i as Honeybourne Mouldings had sold me an incorrect tunnel previously when purchasing one for my herald. They sent me a correct on and i kept the incorrect one with there blessing. I thought this will save me a pound or two, however putting it in my spit IV today its about 3-4 cm too short and a little low in height.  I know Spit IV and later have different tunnels to the earlier models, is this the diffence and i have a Spit tunnel for a Mk 1-3??

On the top of the windscreen is a nice piece of chrome, probably scratched. Under that is a thick piece of sealant.... where can i get another or what have people used?

just an update took the needle valves out again blew through with air. The float valve had no copper washers so put one under each and no flooding.

just an update took the needle valves out again blew through with air. The float valve had no copper washers so put one under each and no flooding.

just an update took the needle valves out again blew through with air. The float valve had no copper washers so put one under each and no flooding.

hmm I'll pull the floats off again

Right the Spit rebuild has reached , the new oil, new plugs, new Antifreeze, rebuilt carbs reattached to engine, Oil pressure guage attached type stage.   This means i got some petrol to have a go and start her up... she starts oil pressure at smidge over 50psi when cold so not too bad. Petrol flowing through that brand new kunifer pipe and hose. However the top of the float chambers are collecting fuel, i have checked the hose clips etc and all tight. I assume the floats are not shutting properly, however new float valves and seats are fitted, and when pressed up it stop me blowing on the in pipe. The Haynes talks of bending up a metal tab to ensure 1/8" gap but i dont have any metal tabs on the top of the float, (its not holed i should mention). I looked on Rimmers and Paddocks and new floats are sold with not metal tabs, both float bowls are the same. Am i missing a part when a float has been replaced?

Right the Spit rebuild has reached , the new oil, new plugs, new Antifreeze, rebuilt carbs reattached to engine, Oil pressure guage attached type stage.   This means i got some petrol to have a go and start her up... she starts oil pressure at smidge over 50psi when cold so not too bad. Petrol flowing through that brand new kunifer pipe and hose. However the top of the float chambers are collecting fuel, i have checked the hose clips etc and all tight. I assume the floats are not shutting properly, however new float valves and seats are fitted, and when pressed up it stop me blowing on the in pipe. The Haynes talks of bending up a metal tab to ensure 1/8" gap but i dont have any metal tabs on the top of the float, (its not holed i should mention). I looked on Rimmers and Paddocks and new floats are sold with not metal tabs, both float bowls are the same. Am i missing a part when a float has been replaced?

not seen anything there, i'll look again.

I have brought one of these http://www.angclassiccarparts.co.uk/home/triumph-5981/spitfire/ignition/ignition-coil-lucas-spitfire-mkiv-1500 which appears to be the coil for ballasted Spits, my mark iv doesn't seem to have a ballast resistor, i might be looking in the wrong place for it though. Does it matter that mine doesnt have a ballast resistor?   Whats are the benefits of the resistor?

MY 13/60 was suffering the same problem. I dropped the sump, the crank was grooved and could have done with a regrind, but whacked new bearings in and the pressure is still good. I did the C2C in it a few months back too.. I do accept the bearings will wear sooner with the crank not being ground.

So basically the tube should sit marginally proud of the top hats?