Matt306

Hmmm... not seen it before the bolts usually rust to the metal tube through the bush. Cant see the need to spot weld them in place. There should be a ridge on the bracket to stop the head of the bolt spinning , if this was taken off that might explain it.  The bolt shouldnt spin as it will wear the bracket, the trunnion and schock bottom bolts will happily oval out the bottom wish bone holes requiring a spot weld of a washer.

Howard it was the far right lever think it has had a leak at some point as the matrix has signs of a leak. The pipes have a hole too so new matrix from Robsport coming today,

The flaps now move as i have opened it all up , the flaps need a paint and some foams. 

The lever has come off the splined shaft at the control just wondering how these are secure on?

Still fixing my '82 DHC . All progressing, carbs rebuilt water pump done. New Rear deck installed Holes in Spare wheel well repaired. Bottom of B Post repaired.

I have a new fuel tank and fuel line to install. Refurbed back axle going in soon.

I moved onto dash and heater . I noticed the levers on the heater controls weren't working one flap being seized. This has meant the at the lever end the operating cam has worked off the splined shaft. I cant see anything to secure it on , how is the cam secured on the splined shaft?

From my point of view as a two time completer and drive home at the end. It is perfectly doable just be aware when you are tired swap. 

One of the security issues with the website is that you can register as a user and then email people from your email client. I now have your email address. There are some settings in the forum to limit your email address i wonder how many people have used this though?

Privacy on the site, I cant block a user, or at least find the option. Also entry lists for events are published for members and non-members alike, surely this should be limited to entrants only at the minimum. 

I have acquired a TR7 registered in 1982, now it must have been built in 1981 as production ended then. This gets the tax free time down by a year . How do i do it and can the club help.

Going to get on with the holes in the rear deck and the boot bulk head. 

I have a new deck as it will be smarter think I will need to drop the petrol tank so i can safely weld then some paint in the inside tunnel.

Quoted from Howard-

Matt

Welcome to the TR7 fraternity. A few questions for you:-

1) Do you have the BL workshop manual for the 7 as this is available as a PDF download? PM me if you need a copy

2) I have a fairly complete set of UK DHC electrical drawings for the 81/82 DHC. They include the intermittent wiper system which is not in the official drawings so again let me know if you want a copy.

Howard

Howard that would be fabulous if you could , I do have a thick blue manual

The switch is in the engine area by the NS (Near Side)  loom it looks original the wire is green black.

The other wire is on the offside its not connected

Picked up a 1982 TR7 (yes i know they stopped making them in 1981). Its not too bad considering but needs some TLC. 

Its a DHC and needs a new rear deck. The petrol tank can come out for this job as there are a few small holes on that rear bulkhead which need attention too.

I have the deck anyone replaced one and any tips from those who have.

I have also found what appears to be a bonnet/ door open switch in the bonnet area, its not attached and hanging loose any clues what its for its connected to a green black wire.

I also have a black and white coloured wire hanging loose behind the OS headlight any clues whats this one is for.

The holes in the rear wings where the US version have lights dont seem well waterproof should there be a gasket?

Good points engine has had the head recently engineered!

Ok New clutch before RBRR... never worked well untill i pushed slave cylinder forward, replaced rubbers on RBRR, various problems. 

A period of stability then recently trouble engaging gear, notice black fluid on master cylinder, new, rubbers for master and new slave cylinder. Its worse than before i started. No loss of fluid prior to all this. 

I guess i may end up using the old slave which i ground out the bolt ridge.

Quoted from Dannyb-

When I fitted a new slave cylinder it did not go far enough into the housing therefore not pushing the operating rod enough. The groove where the bolt goes through I had to grind a bit away to allow the slave to go further into the bellhousing. Also any slight wear in the clevis pin on the master cylinde r/ clutch pedal makes a huge difference at the slave end.

Danny

I would like to compare the dimensions of repro 'county' versions to an original

Quoted from Dannyb-

When I fitted a new slave cylinder it did not go far enough into the housing therefore not pushing the operating rod enough. The groove where the bolt goes through I had to grind a bit away to allow the slave to go further into the bellhousing. Also any slight wear in the clevis pin on the master cylinde r/ clutch pedal makes a huge difference at the slave end.

Danny

I would like to compare the dimensions of repro 'county' versions to an original

Well previously I have used the clutch with no issues.  The clutch fluid was getting black in the master. The push rod was oily as i had no cover on the push rod. I know this can mean break up of the seals, not sure if it was oil getting in though? Would oil and brake fluid mix. 

I started all this as the clutch wasnt disengaging properly.

Previously i have had to grind a wedge in the slave so it moved forward slightly.

So in short I had a working clutch albeit with some alteration to the slave cylinder. The clutch worked ok on the c2c run no slipping and only recently causing me problems disengaging and selecting gears. Just cant figure why the clutch slave needs to be ground to move forward. I have left the clutch pedal depressed to see if i can compress air bubbles and will bleed again. 

Quoted from Hogie4A-

Hi Matt,

If everything appears to be moving correctly then you need to question the internal assembly

have you got the friction plate the right way round.

There should be  an impression on the plate saying 'flywheel side' or something similar.

 

Roger

dont thing the clutch will bolt up with it the wrong way around will it? iirc the one bit in the middle is raised .

Quoted from drofgum-

Matt,

There is one more thing to check. Crankshaft end play. Push the crank fully toward the back and watch the pulley as a helper steps on the clutch pedal. Any but the slightest motion is too much. 1/16" is way too much. If the crankshaft can move that much the clutch mechanism won't have much reserve motion to release.

Best of luck,

Paul

I changed the crank thrust washer not long back but will double  check

I believe it is doing its job but will check. 

Previously i made the cutout for the bolt on the slave bigger allowing the slave to be moved forward to take out the slack. Surely this is treating the symptom not the cause. Or is it the cheap COUNTY parts?

About a year ago I put a new clutch in the Spit prior to it going on the road. I brought a new master cylinder new slave cylinder. I have a new pipe but the clutch has never worked satisfactorily. I have renewed the seals and have another slave cylinder in both i still cant get the clutch to work so i can select a gear. I presume it must be an air lock. I have swapped the  push road to an adjuster one take out slack.  I have a solid pipe with a coil in it , not had these problems with the Herald, any clues anyone???

The pivot arm pin is there still as well.

Another thought have you got a ballast resistor on the mk3 ?... they are meant to be bypassed at start up to provide a full 12v for stronger spark. No reason to think that it would be connected as its separate to the dizzy so shouldnt really be related to the problem. Worth checking.

Like Paul said the drive gear slot is off set. I spent ages with similar issues only to realise my folly in putting the gear in 180degrees out.

But now i am on Megajolt....programmable curve stronger spark, no dizzy.... first time i drove it like a new car.

I am working on my spit iv diff. Anyone know where i can get some shims for the sun and planet gears. I took mine to bits, no shim behind the sun gear.  A very worn shim behind one planet and another marked .39 on the other.  The only place i could find shims was at Moss and ordered the thinnest of both. .39 planet and .35 sun. The sun gear is a funny material not copper. 

After fitting them without too many problems the gears have no end float but i cant move them by hand so i think i need some thinner.anyone know of some suppliers?

Not sure where to find a wider weather strip. I dont know if the drivers door has been reskinned. 

The passenger door has been and that window isnt perpendicular in the slot.

Not sure where to find a wider weather strip. I dont know if the drivers door has been reskinned. 

The passenger door has been and that window isnt perpendicular in the slot.

Couple of problems. 

Drivers door outer weather seal doesn't meet the window allowing rain into the door. I know i can probably washer up the runners but that will mean the window moves away from the door seal.

Passengers door; The window here appears not to be perpendicular with the drop slot. The rear edge being tight on the outer seal front edge tight on the inner drop seal. 

The door lock also is a little peculiar when i pull the handle open the door lock engages, the door opens a little but jams requiring the door to be unlocked. I have just had the lock mechanism out and cleaned it all up , I adjusted the lock rod to utilise the full throw of the lock.

Any help appreciated.