Matt306

Like many of you I had a heater blower with one speed setting, here is my instructional repair;   First off you need to get the offending part out, yes sorry its a dashboard out moment please read your workshop manual for this. The item is located on top of the heater unit at rear under the thick cable. It unclips so no screw driver is required. The following picture is where the item resides.   Undo the connectors and remove the wire noting original installation, a plug on the top of the heater, two wires from the heater and 4 wires from the control lever bottom right. Now the offending item is the Otter Switch labelled G6d. My problem was where to source one, Ebay was selling them for over £30 each. I figured there was a large profit on this. I emailed Otter controls and asked them they had a minimum order of £250, again i didnt want this option. But they were very helpful and put me on to the Rover SD1 club who sold the switch for £16 delivered. I guessed there are so many similarities between the two cars this would do. I did have some numbers on the side of my switch but Otter told me they are a build date of June 1981 and rated for 110C . So I learnt my car is a really late build TR7. The part arrived in a couple of days     Next to set about the old unit , it was a case of unsoldering and drilling out the rivets, and then soldering and rivettin g a 2.4mm rivett mine was 6mm long and could have done with being 10mm but it held firm so i wasnt too worried.  

Took the resisitor out and had a look, the otter temp switch is well cruddy so did some research and the RoverSD1 club sell them for £16 delivered, I am going to replace and see how we go.   The handbrake switch is my stupidity i forgot to connect the plug in the harness.    The Petrol guage problem still remains though.

I am moving on a pace with the TR7 the heater is back in and i connected power to the ancillaries before putting the whole dash back in. Problems I have are fuel gauge; I had a new tank and sender. I have measured Voltage at the sender unit its 12v and the earth is good. The rear of the gauge has a measurement of 12v on one 3v on another. The needle shows no movement even when the sender wire is earthed. I have a spare Gauge so swapped it over and this time the gauge reads full the reading at the back is 12v and 6v this time.  Now i think i have checked everything, is it time for another gauge? (the tank has about 15L of petrol in). On the handbrake light front , there is a light for Hand brake but this doesnt illuminate but the BRAKE light does. This should be the light for the pressure switch? How do i get the HAND BRAKE light to illuminate   Heater; I have only action on one setting on the heater blower, it this a broken resistor? if so can i repair ?  

As I moved forward along the passenger floor pan cutting out metal and welding in new I got to the front. There was a patch in the wheel arch on both sides of the car where the fire wall is. Any way a quick run around with the wire brush on the grinder found a hole then another then another. A suspicious large amount of filler around the wheel arch led to me deciding the wing needed to come off this is my finding.       Yes that is payen gasket card!

Rebuilding the rear suspension and it appears the bolts are imperial not metric size is this correct? The bolt appear more to be 7/16 in size.

Ahh lovely thought as they were a bit smaller and more widely available they would be better.     @Theo  did you upgrade the fuse box from glass fuses, I am thinking Blade fuses may be useful.   I have a rusty late boot and a older boot with almost no rust and a recessed lock, can i use the older boot instead of my new one?

Are the 5 pin round relays the same as the more modern 5 pin square ones?

Looks very good, mine is a bit more rudimentary, neoprene foam cut to size with craft knife. The old one was my template.

Ahh that one was disengaged i think its the intake flap? The demist direction vent on mine was siezed think thats what caused the lever to pop off the shaft It will all be moving freely when reassembled and free from leaks! The bulkhead seal I will make my own as it appears it isnt available

Thats the bit Howard, a clamp aaah I'll try that. At the moment its out and in pieces, going to replace the foams on the flaps, got a new heater matrix from Robsport, but i have come to the conclusion the pipes are knackered too.   

Hmmm... not seen it before the bolts usually rust to the metal tube through the bush. Cant see the need to spot weld them in place. There should be a ridge on the bracket to stop the head of the bolt spinning , if this was taken off that might explain it.  The bolt shouldnt spin as it will wear the bracket, the trunnion and schock bottom bolts will happily oval out the bottom wish bone holes requiring a spot weld of a washer.

Howard it was the far right lever think it has had a leak at some point as the matrix has signs of a leak. The pipes have a hole too so new matrix from Robsport coming today,   The flaps now move as i have opened it all up , the flaps need a paint and some foams.    The lever has come off the splined shaft at the control just wondering how these are secure on?

Still fixing my '82 DHC . All progressing, carbs rebuilt water pump done. New Rear deck installed Holes in Spare wheel well repaired. Bottom of B Post repaired. I have a new fuel tank and fuel line to install. Refurbed back axle going in soon. I moved onto dash and heater . I noticed the levers on the heater controls weren't working one flap being seized. This has meant the at the lever end the operating cam has worked off the splined shaft. I cant see anything to secure it on , how is the cam secured on the splined shaft?

From my point of view as a two time completer and drive home at the end. It is perfectly doable just be aware when you are tired swap.     

One of the security issues with the website is that you can register as a user and then email people from your email client. I now have your email address. There are some settings in the forum to limit your email address i wonder how many people have used this though?

Privacy on the site, I cant block a user, or at least find the option. Also entry lists for events are published for members and non-members alike, surely this should be limited to entrants only at the minimum. 

I have acquired a TR7 registered in 1982, now it must have been built in 1981 as production ended then. This gets the tax free time down by a year . How do i do it and can the club help.

Going to get on with the holes in the rear deck and the boot bulk head.  I have a new deck as it will be smarter think I will need to drop the petrol tank so i can safely weld then some paint in the inside tunnel.

Howard that would be fabulous if you could , I do have a thick blue manual

        The switch is in the engine area by the NS (Near Side)  loom it looks original the wire is green black. The other wire is on the offside its not connected  

Picked up a 1982 TR7 (yes i know they stopped making them in 1981). Its not too bad considering but needs some TLC.  Its a DHC and needs a new rear deck. The petrol tank can come out for this job as there are a few small holes on that rear bulkhead which need attention too. I have the deck anyone replaced one and any tips from those who have. I have also found what appears to be a bonnet/ door open switch in the bonnet area, its not attached and hanging loose any clues what its for its connected to a green black wire. I also have a black and white coloured wire hanging loose behind the OS headlight any clues whats this one is for.   The holes in the rear wings where the US version have lights dont seem well waterproof should there be a gasket?   Good points engine has had the head recently engineered!

Ok New clutch before RBRR... never worked well untill i pushed slave cylinder forward, replaced rubbers on RBRR, various problems.  A period of stability then recently trouble engaging gear, notice black fluid on master cylinder, new, rubbers for master and new slave cylinder. Its worse than before i started. No loss of fluid prior to all this.  I guess i may end up using the old slave which i ground out the bolt ridge.

I would like to compare the dimensions of repro 'county' versions to an original

I would like to compare the dimensions of repro 'county' versions to an original

Well previously I have used the clutch with no issues.  The clutch fluid was getting black in the master. The push rod was oily as i had no cover on the push rod. I know this can mean break up of the seals, not sure if it was oil getting in though? Would oil and brake fluid mix.  I started all this as the clutch wasnt disengaging properly.   Previously i have had to grind a wedge in the slave so it moved forward slightly.   So in short I had a working clutch albeit with some alteration to the slave cylinder. The clutch worked ok on the c2c run no slipping and only recently causing me problems disengaging and selecting gears. Just cant figure why the clutch slave needs to be ground to move forward. I have left the clutch pedal depressed to see if i can compress air bubbles and will bleed again.