Marshman 1360 Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Can someone tell me which order i need to bleed them keep getting difference of opinion. I have a 13/60 with rear drum front disc. Thanks Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie55 Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Hi Andy, As a rule of thumb, bleed the furthest from the master cylinder working to the closest. Therefore start with the rear NS, then rear OS, then front NS then front OS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 If you are starting with the furthest first you need to start with the furthest one in piping terms, which will be the O/S. Likewise, the one with the shortest piperun is the N/S front, not the obvious seeming O/S :)Not sure it makes alot of odds in any case, I always have to go around a couple of times anyway....Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Nick_Jones wrote:Not sure it makes alot of odds in any case, I always have to go around a couple of times anyway....NickDon't we all ;D I usually do it, then go back and do it properly, usually because whatever wonder tool I've been using has proved totally crap. Nothing beats the old fashioned pedal pump method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valencia1 Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 eezi-bleed kit i bought was worth every penny, do it all on your own, absolute doddle. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marktheherald Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Eezi-bleed for me too, but don't have too much air in the supply tyre! I'm on my second kit, the first lasted about 15 years. Highly recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 2 pipe one jar do both sides together , down fast back slow .hold pedal down when nipping up.always have jar higher than the brake then all air goes up , and you cant suck air in thro' the threads Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 valencia1 wrote:eezi-bleed kit i bought was worth every penny, do it all on your own, absolute doddle. :)Must be just me then but mine explodes fluid all over the bulkhead every time even using an almost totally deflated inner tube as a pressure source. I've taken too much paint off newly painted cars to trust it any more.I also bought one of the compressor-powered vacuum devices which is worse than useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I used an ezee bleed kit on my wife's 1303 VW beetle. The master cylinder is horribly inaccessible under the floor on these, with the reservoir in the front boot, the two joined by a rubber tube. The pressure was a bit high in the spare wheel and it blew the rubber tube clean off the master cylinder. Took me hours to sort it all out. That car used to fight me all the time like this - even broke my thumb once. I'm sure it was possessed, so I sold it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 490 wrote:Must be just me then but mine explodes fluid all over the bulkhead every time even using an almost totally deflated inner tube as a pressure source. I've taken too much paint off newly painted cars to trust it any more.I also bought one of the compressor-powered vacuum devices which is worse than useless. Not just you, it's happened to me too - Eezibleed is the work of the devil. Great when it works, paint ruined when it doesn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zendervision Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I foolishly ruined my freshly resprayed bulkhead with an Eezi-bleed, but I still wouldn't be without one. You just have to make sure that the nuts where the pipe meets the cap are very tight (they work loose). Also, you simply cannot get the cap to seal onto your master cylinder by hand. It might feel tight as hell, but the second the tyre is attached, there's a brake fluid Niagra Falls. I use a rubber strap wrench (a Boa-Constrictor) to get it sealed. In addition, I pack an old towel around the master cylinder so any leaks don't get to the paint. It's a bit of a pain to set up, but compared to all the other brake bleeding methods, it's just heavenly :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 My preference is still two people, one to work the pedal while the other does the business end.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Unless there is a lot of air in there, I find it easy to do conventionally and alone (sad I know).Make sure the tube is tight on the nipple, is see thru and goes up a fair way before bending down into your catch pot - I use a jam jar with a hole punched in the lid. Top the master cylinder right up, open the nipple and gravity will start to push the fluid out. Nip round to the drivers side and slowly pump the pedal 5 or 6 times, go back and check for air in the tube - if none nip it up. Job done - usually anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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