uksnatcher Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 7801 wrote:Question, Doing the castle nut up finger tight doesn't go far enough to line up with the hole in the stub, I'm going to try refitting the hub on the weekend, bearings seem well seated and spins nicely, any tips for doing this? I don't want to over-tighten of course. I believe it's finger tight then back a flat or two to get the correct end float (cant remember the number off the top of my head).As long as the bearing races are seated home and the stub axle is fitted right.....finger tight then back a flat or two to get the correct end float is correct.....this screams out the felt seal is wrong/too wideSee this thread as Dave found out:[Sorry, link no longer available]New felt sealOriginal felt seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Cheers Mike, yeah lets see some pics! I'll race ya! (although i suspect you will win as my progress if fairly...snail-like.Lovely looking MK1 by the way, would love one at some point, they're just so rare though.I have put a new felt seal in yeah, one from canleys, looks exactly like the picture, probably needs a bit of a squish so will do this when i re-fit the hub, thanks!I just cant wait to get back in and take it out with the new setup, and i still have the other side and the rear to do (rotoflex doughnut has a split so will bite the bullet now and go for CVs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Not sure it will squish, but nice sharp Stanley knife and cut it in half will do..and a couple spare then too ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTeesside Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I got my new felt seal (along with a whole front hub refurbish kit, bearings, races, seals etc) from a guy on eBay I buy from often, http://stores.ebay.co.uk/classicpartstrader?_rdc=1. Was just like the original. Great guy and always helpful, I had to pay by a snail mail cheque once when PayPal had decided to temporarily lock funds for no reason and he was cool with it.As for racing, you'll definitely win as I'm doing the rear and converting the head to unleaded too, heh. Also sealing those pesky constantly weeping push rod tubes. They're removable on the Mk1 head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Good thinking about cutting in half, hopefully this will mean they sit perfectly, I'd rather ask and get it right first time.Have seen some discussion about giving the seal a coating of engine oil. is this recommended?Mike, I don't know it might be closer than you think, I will be converting to CV's at the rear and a 123 tune ignition will be going on soon after (that's the plan anyway). Then being undersealed/dinitrol'ed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Its recommended to soak the felt seal in oil and some say compress them in a vice squished between two pieces of metal plate overnight as well.If you go the soak and squish route, I wouldn't cut them in half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Gave it some oil and compressed it, got the split pin in but still seems a tad on the tight side (the castle nut I mean).Hub seems to spin fairly freely, how easily should they be to spin with your hand (I know this is difficult to describe), should it keep spinning once you take your hand away for example?Might take a video tomorrow morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTeesside Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 7801 wrote:should it keep spinning once you take your hand away for example?Mine does. But it shouldn't just spin and spin and spin, not until everything has bedded in anyway if you've replaced all with new. Mine spins a bit then stops under its own weight. Obviously this is without the brake caliper bolted on as that'll cause it to stop quicker if new pads/rotor.But as with everything else on a hand built car; your mileage may vary. I wouldn't worry too much as long as it's not sticking or very difficult to spin or if it gives any kind of noise while rolling on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 With the wheel off the ground, one hand at top and other at the bottom you should be able to feel slight movement at the bearing alternately forcing in the top and the bottom in line with the stub axle when bearing set correctly.This may require fair force to overcome the tight felt.Too many variables to judge by resistance to spinning at this stage. Just as long as there are no odd noises or uneven sensations as the wheel rotates.Check everything again after some cornering loads have had their effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Cheers for the help guys, i got it sorted so i was totally happy with it Saturday morning, so all good.Unfortunately the stainless brake hoses aren't through yet (awaiting new rad cowl which was out of stock) so to keep myself busy i replaced the spark plugs and then started on the other side of the car.Once I've got the wheel on i will check for movement as you say junkuser.So a few photos from the weekend,New brake caliper on with the fixed part of the line (and bracket to fix to the flexi part) on:New plugs in:I got a lot of the other side off and started to sand and paint the hub, caliper bracket and dust shield. One bolt that always seems to be a bugger to get out is the rear lower wishbone one (see picture). Is there a trick to this, as there isnt enough room to get a hammer/drift there to give it the initial push and my pliers aren't having any joy, other side was a "challenge" to get out too, the chassis is just in the way! (i have tried taking the chassis mount off but can't get to the nut with any of my tools. Spent about an hour and a half trying and left it there in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_M Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 John,There's a hole right through the chassis leg for just your situation. Use a long drift from the other side (under the floor pan), through the leg and then onto the wishbone bolt.Triumph; they thought of everything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Duh, thanks Richard, you know when the answer is right there and need someone else to point the obvious out! haha.That's an hour and a half of frustration and pondering i wont get back.Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMitch82 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 i unbolted the mount bracket from the chassis, as the bolt wouldnt move at all, kept and labled the shims so as they fit properly when i reassemble it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard_M Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 John - we've all been there, same problem, same duh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Spark plug removal & replacement around the distributor is made tolerable with a wobble-type socket extension on the socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 rotoflex wrote:Spark plug removal & replacement around the distributor is made tolerable with a wobble-type socket extension on the socket.I found the "normal" one (in pic) ok, didn't seem too difficult with the distributor there, meh.Was nice to have a such a quick and easy 5 min job to do, oil change was the same took no time, far as i can see there isn't any excuse for not doing the regular servicing stuff yourself as it takes no time and is pretty cheap on these cars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 So bits are off the other side, will get that troublesome bolt off tomorrow (will probably take about 2mins now)Old parts of other side to be painted: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Ok, so got a couple of hours yesterday on the car, so more work on the second side and fitted the stainless hoses to the LHSstainless hose fitted, i assume this looks right, all seemed ok and was very easy:so just the Track Rod end onto steering arm and then ARB once other side is done.More removing of suspension bushes from the upper wishbones and sanded/painted them:Also fitted the races and inner bearings & seal to the newly sanded and painted hub and put the new disc on with nuts to correct torque:Bolt on the rear of the lower RH wishbone was still eluding me, i think it's slightly bent, so i resorted to cutting through one side, the inner side is more difficult to get to, hope this doesnt mean it'll be a struggle to get the new lower wishbone in.you can see in this pic it looks a bit off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Before you connect steering arm move the suspension fully up/down and left/right. If the brake line doesn't fould or catch anything -well done!John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Cheers John, will do that.Am i being dense or is it much easier to attach the track rod end to the steering arm once the car is down under load, or is that totally wrong?Must admit it has worried me not being able to get this bolt out of the lower wishbone, got a new lower one with the superflex in ready to go, but might be a pain to get in if the chassis mounting bracket, or chassis itself is slightly off. I guess i'll have to cross that if/when it comes to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Behind the wishbone bracket on the other side of the chassis is a nut, can't you just undo that and take it our so its easier to work with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 I've tried but the exhaust is in the way and didn't fancy taking that off and then possibly finding I need to take another thing off to get that outta the way. Haha.Doesn't help I don't have a lot of room to work on this side in the single garage. Cheers though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LouisW Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 The exhaust is in the way? Blimey, how big's your exhaust? ;D I'm doing a front suspension rehaul myself on my spitfire. It's all painted and cleaned up just needs bolting in (bought a new suspension bolt kit from paddocks) however will need to find a manual of which bolt goes where ;) Looking good, keep up the good work.Louis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 haha, it's not that's what is weird, its a fairly standard looking stainless system but it really gets in the way, like i say it may be because my garage space is....er...limited (parked the car up close to the wall on one side with the intention of doing one side at a time but just ended up doing both overlapping due to waiting for parts. ah well, it'll get there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 Couple of videos from before the rebuild , tappets need adjustinghttp://youtu.be/XHEgyjd6DVghttp://youtu.be/_xdig9N6UMY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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