rear brakes

[GT6 M]

Hugh, here is a bracket i made up, I used steel 4 mm thick, and once  the calipers were in the right spot,and sliding freely,
I welded nuts on,so it be easy to tek off.
the mounting holes were made to match the holes  in the upreet.
here a pik for ye,

[Hugh]

Thanks chaps for replies

Grade is 6082T6 / H30 I am making a flat plate bracket that mounts as per the original backplate the calpiers have the threaded holes for mounting.  No bending or welding needed  :o I am just going to be drilling holes for bolts to go through.

[Hugh]

Thanks chaps for replies

Grade is 6082T6 / H30 I making a flat plate bracket that mounts as per the original backplate the calpiers have the threaded holes for mounting.  No bending or welding needed  :o I am just going to be drilling holes for bolts to go through.

[GT6 M]

Hugh, this may be a better shot,

[Hugh]

Okay so my latest progress after trying to get the best position for the calipers to fit with the rotoflex upright etc I came to the conclusion I needed a bigger diameter disc ( the Alfa one is 240mm ) I spent some time looking for a disc of 260mm dia but with 4 stud holes and a 60mm center bore. So after a while I found a rear disc from a Proton Coupe 1.8 (97-01) solid 260mm with a 64mm center bore dia and 4 studs and after opening up the 4 stud holes they fit really well and now the caliper fits fine as I was able to move it out 15mm to clear all the suspension bits. The cost was £33.73 delivered from these people on ebay car-parts-giant. Thankfully the Alfa disc were only £10 so I did not waste too much cash .
I will now sort out the brake cable and post it when done.

Oh I also went over to Saxo calipers too so all in all I started again ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Hugh

[GT6 M]

You been better off using the MX 5 250 dia rears.
the hand brake lever, that the cable goes onto catches as it is a little with the 250 ones on
its going to catch even more with 260 ones on, 5 MM more, is alott,when there aint nowt to start off with.

Options, cut an inch out of the bottom of the wheel well / spring tunnel corner, about 2-3 inch up too
and about 3 inch inwards

or  2  cuts, up and along, then tap metal back to make the wedge shape. and weld back up.
catches reet on the end, so can be tepered back from about 3 inch back to an inch deep, follow.

dont doo this, then the hand brake cable will wear away.


M

[Hugh]

796 wrote:

You been better off using the MX 5 250 dia rears.
the hand brake lever, that the cable goes onto catches as it is a little with the 250 ones on
its going to catch even more with 260 ones on, 5 MM more, is alott,when there aint nowt to start off with.

Options, cut an inch out of the bottom of the wheel well / spring tunnel corner, about 2-3 inch up too
and about 3 inch inwards

or  2  cuts, up and along, then tap metal back to make the wedge shape. and weld back up.
catches reet on the end, so can be tepered back from about 3 inch back to an inch deep, follow.

dont doo this, then the hand brake cable will wear away.
M

Marcus I have done away with the way the handbrake cable is guided through the lh/rh cable guides and put a different type of guide for the lh/rh some where else this has done away with the problem.

I had to do this to get the caliper mount to clear the rotoflex suspension/shock etc.

Will take some photos soon ;)



Cheers
Hugh ;)

[GT6 M]

Ahhh, forgot you still using the Tie Bars, so your caliper will mount diff to mine.
solution, Bin the things,. ;) ;) ;)