rotoflex Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 658 wrote:I must admit i only want to do it because with alloys they look betterSteal ideas from the time of wire wheels on sports cars.Put alfin drums on the rear, and paint the front calipers silver and rock the period snazzy racer look.http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/alfin.html&xsl=productdev.xslAnother period alternative: Paint the rear drums & front calipers some spiffy color, either body color or something more eye-catching if you prefer. Show off your non-typical auto's non-typical technology. When folks started painting their calipers for eye-teasing a decade or so ago, it was like deja vu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 ferny wrote:It took two goes to set up the brakes on the Moggy Traveler properly. It was drum all-round but the brakes were incredible. So was my 948 Herald - incredibly scary. More than once I thought the pedal was going to break off the bulkhead if I pushed it any harder. They were well set up and balanced - the MOT always confirmed it - but still terrible compared to front discs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 I had i reliant robin that had the same issue. However with one three drums instead of four they didnt last long when driven hard.Do those alloy fins actually work better than normal ones???Anyone tried them???Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilnaz Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Am I the only one to start yawning here? Firstly I do think that, provide braking systems are well maintained and working as they should, then you do not need to be upgraded to disks at the rear. Bigger brake at the front are not required either unless you have hiked up the power and speed to some level unexpected by your average Spitfire. The brakes work well and are capable with a shove of locking up pretty easily so that is as much as you need. Brake fade is an issue but, mostly I hear of people having issues going down mountain passes - why are you using your brakes all the way down the hill? Why not use engine braking in second and dab the brakes as and when required?I despair of the driving capabilities of most of the people that drive on the roads. Are we becoming the same? I hate driving behind people who brake into and during turning through a bend. Get a grip of driving properly please. If you drive and have a car capable of faster speeds than my Spitfire then either you are a very very capable Racing Driver or you use the brakes far too often and are not really in control of your car.Discuss............ :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyV Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 2402 wrote:I had i reliant robin that had the same issue. However with one three drums instead of four they didnt last long when driven hard.Do those alloy fins actually work better than normal ones???Anyone tried them???Chris.Yes, they work very very well on my race spit. Had all sorts of problems with rears overheating until I fitted them. All good ever since.Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Neil,You're fairly critical of others, so may I return the favour? Engine braking is an outmoded technique, from the very earliest days of motoring when cable brakes and those that worked on the transmission were inadequate. As you say, Triumph brakes are perfectly adequate for normal road use, if maintained and adjusted well.The engine is not designed as a brake! Why use it as one? If you plan to go pass-storming, and fear fade on a long descent, fit pads with a higher heat range, such as Mintex 1155. In other words, prepare your brakes, don't risk excess engine wear or damage by using it inappropriately.JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Nothing wrong with braking in a bend, if you know what you're doing. Look up trail braking.And where's the fun in going down a mountain pass in 2nd gear? ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 ferny wrote:Nothing wrong with braking in a bend, if you know what you're doing. Or if you went in too Fu*king hot and suddenly become religious!!!! ha ha. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 rotoflex wrote:Put alfin drums on the rear, and paint the front calipers silver and rock the period snazzy racer look....Too bad these aren't available in 8" for the front of a Herald...or the back of a GT6 or Vitesse. :'( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 JohnD wrote:Neil,You're fairly critical of others, so may I return the favour? Engine braking is an outmoded technique, from the very earliest days of motoring when cable brakes and those that worked on the transmission were inadequate. As you say, Triumph brakes are perfectly adequate for normal road use, if maintained and adjusted well.The engine is not designed as a brake! Why use it as one? If you plan to go pass-storming, and fear fade on a long descent, fit pads with a higher heat range, such as Mintex 1155. In other words, prepare your brakes, don't risk excess engine wear or damage by using it inappropriately.JOhnJohn,I think that's highly unfair- Neil was talking about engine braking on hills. Purely being in a low gear when going down a hill so the car doesn't run away. I think that's still a fairly well practised technique!James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 It is but wont work on the types of hills and turns mentioned. You could be in danger of over revving the engine......If it's standard.Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilnaz Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 John yourae probably right that engine braking may not always be the best option but I find that I only need apply the brakes adjusting my speed before entering the corner. I have followed many people with their brakes on all the way down a hill and I suspect that their brakes would be overheating or past their best.I was not criticising everyone just observing that the car can be driven within its limits but pretty fast without necessarily needing a brake upgrade whether vented 4-pot or disks all-round. I have Mintex pads on my car and have never had an issue - maybe that is why....I did not seek to criticise people that much just observe that brakes should be used sparingly. I have driven over the Stelvio pass and other moutain passes - never an issue but I am probably not as speedy a driver as some of you. I have no issue with changes or improvements I am merely pointing out that sometimes what you have if well set up works pretty well.All the best - BTW 28 degrees and glorious sunshine over here in NZ - No sign of any snow - I bet you guys areover it by now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 My Alfa 147 lucas rear discs arrived today and as I calculated ( hoped ) they fit straight on to the GT6 wheel studs PCD and my Alfa 147 brake calipers also seem to fit and give no clearance issues with wheel when put put back on. Hand brake lever looks like it will work with the GT6 hand brake cable etc as wellNow need to make a better permenant caliper bracket. But I will not be duing these for quite a while Dominic is good at unbolting and stripping the rear brakes but cutting, drilling, etc off alum plate is too risky for him :)I think it might work quite well so far anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daxk Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Been reading this thread with great interest.what I remember from my racing and rallying times in the 70's was that problem with having drums on the rear vs Discs all round wasreaction time, if you jumped on the brakes in a light fronted car, the rear drums took longer to actually start contributing, which meant the front was locking up,and the only way to unlock was to get off the brakes, which meant you were also closer to whatever caused you to lock them up in the first place so you really stamped on them..... which was when you became a devout Christian.Essentially, the car was out of balnce.My only concern with changing design specs is that you have to change everything else that that part of the car was designed for, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Dack, not only that, but I found that you could also get drum snatch as the servo action took hold at high speed, when you have got the drums hot, and the gaps have increased, some thing that wont happen with discs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jango Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 I did this mod and it works very well indeed and got rid of all the snaping drive shafts and failing diffs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 neil and I don't seem to have a real dispute about braking.So that's all right then.Jango's mod is impressive!For his first reason, I've gone a similar route with Metro halfshafts, and MGF uprights, but much less impressive wishbones.JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Actually I like your approach John as the construction is all triangulated giving maximum resistance to distortion for minimum material/weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 JohnD wrote:neil and I don't seem to have a real dispute about braking.So that's all right then.Jango's mod is impressive!For his first reason, I've gone a similar route with Metro halfshafts, and MGF uprights, but much less impressive wishbones.JOhnSpill the beans John!! Pics of these on your car maybe?? How well do they work?Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I have attached a couple photos that show my Alfa brake caliper and disc placed inside the wheel of my car can anyone see any issues by just looking at the photos.Helpful comments welcomed only please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 I have fitted the Alfa rear discs to the hub and put the caliper in the best position it looks ok I think . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Hugh, the MX one is only 34 mm deep, ,so no clearance issuesyou may need to alter the handbrake braket, , as it is going in the wrong direction,!!!or is it,!!ohhh those cast iron things weigh a ton, compared to the Saxo alloy ones,Hope it works for you, Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Hi Marcus clearance is'nt a problem so far :) Yeah handbrake bracket needs a bit of a tweak what you see in the picture is a mounting bracket for the cable I may do a way with this or modify it also the black part of the caaliper is alloy not cast steel which makes them quite light they are small too :) Nothing is yet bolted in place I have to make some alloy mounting brackets which will be too difficult for me to do untill my shoulder and wrist have been reset :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Can anyone ( Marcus or Tim ) put a couple of pictures up of the mounting plates they made to mount their rear calipers pleaseAlso I intend to use 6mm aircraft grade alum alloy plate to make the mounting plate so can anyone givre me their views on this Many Thanks Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Blighter Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Hugh - which grade of aluminium are you using? Are you intending to bend it to make the brackets? If you are bending you are going to have problems with possible cracking or weakening on the bend. If you need something with a 90 degree bend in it let me know as I have some offcuts of large specially extruded angles at work that could be the basis for cutting or machining down. They are in grade 6082-t6 and which is a structural engineering grade and have been tested for a particulary robust use.If they are good enough to make bomb proof curtain walling at heathrow and gatwick I'm sure they will be fine for caliper brackets ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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