Clausandeva Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Can someone enlighten me as to the fuse set up. I have a facet electric fuel pump in the boot. The power take off for this is from the ingnition switch. The cable run between these two points shorted across the bodywork. rather than blow a fuse, this has caused the cable jacket to melt and also has caused the main loom cable from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid to melt too. The loom is now shot and before I re install my new loom, I would like to know why this happened. To melt it, the current must have been pretty high but hasn't blown the fuse? Why are all the fuses 35a.I can't find any info on the current rating of the loom wires or items within the loom.ThanksNick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Chances are that the electric pump was added later without a fused supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Hello Clauseand eva, if taken directly from the ignition switch, which is what it sounds like, that is not fused. All ignition switched circuits are as installed by Triumph. It also sounds as though the cable was not run very well, if installed properly it would have adequate protection against sharp edges etc.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6chris Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I am afraid that's how it was when these cars were made. Only 3 35a fuses and some circuits without fuses at all. Some cars had only 1 or 2 fuses. I partly rewired my car when I restored it and got most of the cable and connectors from:http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php.Their Website has useful info about cable types and ratings and they can supply a complete loom if that's what you want.I suspect if you strip the loom back it may not be as bad as it first seems - replace the damaged cables and add a few more fuses. I split out the circuits and used a 10 way blade fuse box from the same people.http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1273RegardsChris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HMaze Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 And no: not 3x35A fuses but 3x35A/17,5A continous LUCAS fuses! More like 3x modern 17,5A fuses! (more likely 15A).Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6chris Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Well they are 35A fuses but LUCAS rated 35A. Most modern fuses are rated at the continuous current so a modern 35A fuse may have a "blow" rating of nearly double that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clausandeva Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwig1113 Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Quoted from GT6chris I am afraid that's how it was when these cars were made. Only 3 35a fuses and some circuits without fuses at all. Some cars had only 1 or 2 fuses. I partly rewired my car when I restored it and got most of the cable and connectors from:http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php.Their Website has useful info about cable types and ratings and they can supply a complete loom if that's what you want.I suspect if you strip the loom back it may not be as bad as it first seems - replace the damaged cables and add a few more fuses. I split out the circuits and used a 10 way blade fuse box from the same people.http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1273RegardsChris thanks for those links Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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