Hugh Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Can anyone help please by giving me the over all dimensions from centre of eye to eye for full closed and fully open rear shocks for a MKIII GT6 with rotoflex.I think the shocks I have fitted maybe too long Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 908 wrote:Can anyone help please by giving me the over all dimensions from centre of eye to eye for full closed and fully open rear shocks for a MKIII GT6 with rotoflex.I think the shocks I have fitted maybe too long Thanks I can but you will have to wait another week or so before mine is back in my garage! :B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 If the driveshafts touch the chassis when the car is jacked up, then the shocks are too long.Original shocks for Rotoflex MKIII's are very difficult to find, and uprated ones are very expensive, so many people opt to fit Spitfire ones instead, which are too long and will result in an MOT failure.Knowing the length of the correct shock is unlikely to help, as if there were shocks out there that would do the job, the the major players in the Triumph market place would be stocking them.Most of the major Triumph traders stock the uprated shocks (£150 and upwards a pair)The other solution is to use the chassis extension bracket kits that are available and use the shocks that come with them - available from the major Triumph traders, and the TSSC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 KevinR wrote:If the driveshafts touch the chassis when the car is jacked up, then the shocks are too long.Original shocks for Rotoflex MKIII's are very difficult to find, and uprated ones are very expensive, so many people opt to fit Spitfire ones instead, which are too long and will result in an MOT failure.Knowing the length of the correct shock is unlikely to help, as if there were shocks out there that would do the job, the the major players in the Triumph market place would be stocking them.Most of the major Triumph traders stock the uprated shocks (£150 and upwards a pair)The other solution is to use the chassis extension bracket kits that are available and use the shocks that come with them - available from the major Triumph traders, and the TSSC. The driveshafts do not touch the chassis when the car is jacked up. The shocks I fitted were the correct ones for rotoflex and are armstrong hevey duty.It seems to me that going over pot holes in the road results in a load crash/bang from the right or left wheel depends on which wheel in pot hole. I just thought that the shocks might be bottoming out. But if I can find out the eye to eye centres length then I can find out what type of shock would fit through the chassis FMEA engineering team where I work THEN I WILL BE RICH ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hugh, go try this first, tek off the shocker boot/dust cover, and then ye can see where the shock is actually sitting,some shocks have a rubber bush in the top to stop them bottomong oot.when you got it off, and back ont car, then jack it up on one side of the chassis , and then put the jack .... Under... the VLnow jack it up, as far as it will go, put more weight in it if it is not going far enough up,.should be ableto judge by how far spring is away frae the spring well /bottom of shock mounting point.if its bottoming oot, then it will be visableif ye think it aint, then cover the top part of the shocker with some grease/or wat ever, and go drive aboot, come back and see if its bottomed ootCant see how yours is bottoming, unless you got to lang a shocker, , cos she seems to be well up at the back,.is the diff bolts tight,!!!spring bolt tightthe adjustable arm is no come loose in the adjuster bitthe bolts that hold the bracket to the tub, are they tight [ tie bar ]you got rubber between the leaves/ leaves not snapped!!top plate not got bent doon,, causing lack of clampingregards Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 796 wrote: Hugh, go try this first, tek off the shocker boot/dust cover, and then ye can see where the shock is actually sitting,some shocks have a rubber bush in the top to stop them bottomong oot.when you got it off, and back ont car, then jack it up on one side of the chassis , and then put the jack .... Under... the VLnow jack it up, as far as it will go, put more weight in it if it is not going far enough up,.should be ableto judge by how far spring is away frae the spring well /bottom of shock mounting point.if its bottoming oot, then it will be visableif ye think it aint, then cover the top part of the shocker with some grease/or wat ever, and go drive aboot, come back and see if its bottomed ootCant see how yours is bottoming, unless you got to lang a shocker, , cos she seems to be well up at the back,.is the diff bolts tight,!!!spring bolt tightthe adjustable arm is no come loose in the adjuster bitthe bolts that hold the bracket to the tub, are they tight [ tie bar ] you got rubber between the leaves/ leaves not snapped!!top plate not got bent doon,, causing lack of clampingregards MarcusThanks Marcus I have looked at all the items you listed and the very last one the top plate that holds the leave spring onthe diff has a crack right across the middle can this be it or has it cracked because of another reason? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy66 Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hugh, get ya camera out! and some measurements too ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 royboy66 wrote:Hugh, get ya camera out! and some measurements too ;)Hi ya Roy picture of the plate? :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 must be all that extra power that cracked it!!!! ;) ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Pics of plate and bottom of shock but what looked like a crack is a big bead of weld and I was also able to tighten up the bolts on the plate by a couple or three turns :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Shake down strikes again! My knob fell off on the way to wolverhampton last week!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 339 wrote:Shake down strikes again! My knob fell off on the way to wolverhampton last week!!You think that might have fixed it I hope so I have never had to tighten my nuts so many times ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy66 Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 339 wrote:Shake down strikes again! My knob fell off on the way to wolverhampton last week!!thats usually an Ailment on the way BACK from Wolvo!! ;D sorry!! :B :B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy66 Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 could be Hugh, you just gonna have to go Drive it Again to check!! :)you been utilising the new found ooomph ??! :) :P :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 royboy66 wrote:thats usually an Ailment on the way BACK from Wolvo!! ;D sorry!! :B :BI thought your knob fell of a couple of weeks after a night out in Wolvo ;DDo you think the loose nuts were my car prob and is the shock length ok in the pictureI am worried about the length but what about the picture ;D ;D ;D :B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Huhg, is that a plastic outer tube cover or a steel one, that will nae come off,!!!if it wont come off slacken lower bolts off, pull shocker offand push shocker up as far as it goes, mark the shocker, and refit, and let it settle doon,this should let you see woe much you got to play with,ohhh, make sure that the studs are well doon into the diff, so giving plenty of thread to bit on to,[ a slot cut into the top of the stud is very helpfull, to screw in/oot ] ;) ;)regards Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 796 wrote:Huhg, is that a plastic outer tube cover or a steel one, that will nae come off,!!!if it wont come off slacken lower bolts off, pull shocker offand push shocker up as far as it goes, mark the shocker, and refit, and let it settle doon,this should let you see woe much you got to play with,ohhh, make sure that the studs are well doon into the diff, so giving plenty of thread to bit on to, [ a slot cut into the top of the stud is very helpfull, to screw in/oot ] ;) ;)regards MarcusYes its a metal cover I have tightned the diff bots and studsso I hope this sorts it outCheers Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Has the rear suspension been re-built?Don't fit the alternative shocker mount kit that some suppliers sell, they limit suspension travel and destroy the ride-in a word crap!!So important to ensure that the mk2/3 suspension system is working correctly. Torque everything up to the correct settings with the suspension loaded. Really essential that the lower vertical link to wishbone joint moves well without sticking or friction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 timbancroft61 wrote:Has the rear suspension been re-built?Don't fit the alternative shocker mount kit that some suppliers sell, they limit suspension travel and destroy the ride-in a word crap!!So important to ensure that the mk2/3 suspension system is working correctly. Torque everything up to the correct settings with the suspension loaded. Really essential that the lower vertical link to wishbone joint moves well without sticking or friction. Car was total rebuilt I have noe re-torqued everthing up will give car a drive Friday to see if it's any betterThanks Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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