cammmy Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Hi EveryoneDave Vizard says that it's possible to add an anti-roll bar to the rear of the big saloons.Quote:The front suspension of both thesecars needs very little doing to them.The first modification consideredshould be the fitment of an anti-rollbar. This will bring about a considerableincrease in roll stiffness butshould be ideally used in conjunctionwith a rear anti-roll bar. Incidentallyboth front and rear antiroll bars areavailable from S.A.HQuote:As mentioned before, the rear suspensionshould firstly have an antirollbar fitted in conjunction with the front.Anyone heard this/seen this/know if the parts are still available anywhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Tried a rear ARB - went slower round the track , regularly grounded and tended to lift a wheel at the back. Removed it and fitted harder rear springs (600lb) - much better then add a LSD - perfect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cammmy Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Righto :)Although the front ARB is definitely worth it? (have one in the shed)Would think adding a front ARB without putting one on the rear would increase the tendancy to understeer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 One of our members in Napier had one fitted to the rear. It was an S so already had a front one,which I would recommend. (Put an S one on my TC and it does make a difference.) Apparently the rear one made bugger all difference. Car no longer in the Bay so don't know what was used.Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Good to hear the S ARB makes a noticeable difference... I've got one (and associated bits) lurking round for my car too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 You do notice the difference with a front anti roll bar; less roll but not quite so absorbent over the bumps.Best to fit some decent adjustable dampers too as the anti roll bar is basically an extra spring in the suspension. These big Triumphs feel much better if you've tuned the damping to take the arb into account. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 If you can find a pair of S front springs,all the better, they're a bit softer and seem better with the ARB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cammmy Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 With my ride hight I definitely don't want soft ;DDoes anyone know of struts that are shorter than the originals? I need to reduce the amount of extension, so its either new shortened ones or shorten the ones I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 sofa springs on the front of an S ;DGood for 70s police chases, but not really for progressive driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 880 wrote:With my ride hight I definitely don't want soft ;DDoes anyone know of struts that are shorter than the originals? I need to reduce the amount of extension, so its either new shortened ones or shorten the ones I have.Shorten the ones you have, very simples, take the shock apart and weld stops so the shocks rebound is reduced, then cut the spring down accordingly and fill to the top with good quality SAE 90 gear oil, screw the tops back on, but you may want to weld a tag to stop the alloy nut coming off under pressure, this mod worked a treat for me. Only the amount of oil you will need is trial and error, I think I had mine filled to the top after a few trials ;D Oh and the cost...zero 8) This is only good for the front!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cammmy Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 ^Epic. Will check this out. I have a spare set of front struts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 962 wrote:then cut the spring down accordingly Seemingly a silly question, but how do you go about cutting a square-ended spring? The square end would need to be restored after shortening, I've yet to find anything online regarding how to do this. All of the written material relates to tangential springs where this isn't an issue,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Glen Johnson in Tassie chopped his own, might be useful info here:http://forums.triumphowners.com/viewtopic.php?t=632 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Hello Bill, that is the difficult part. Easy to cut a spring but closing the last coil after cutting involves heating which will affect the temper, retempering is not something the average DIY person is likely to be able to do? As springs are relatively cheap I would opt for new of the specification required.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Hi Bill,I just cut so much off the coil, and fitted it back in, I did think at the time that it would not seat properly, but as it was trial and error thought what the heck ;D It is still in the car to this day as I fitted it, looks like it could ping when you do look up at the top but as luck is always on my side it worked 8) I think the top spring plates helped it stay in position :)Hope this helps :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cammmy Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 962 wrote:Hi Bill,I just cut so much off the coil, and fitted it back in,I just removed two working coils from both of mine and re-fitted too ;DDone a fair bit of hard driving in it over summer and she behaved fine. With shortened struts to keep them fully captive I don't think it would be a huge issue?Would have gotten CW springs but the shipping costs were prohibitive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Encom Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I had George Stock Ltd (Mt. Wellington) build my height adjustable coil overs and they used a Koni adjustable Toyota Corona insert. I'll add some pic's to my Flickr page if you are interested? 880 wrote:With my ride hight I definitely don't want soft ;DDoes anyone know of struts that are shorter than the originals? I need to reduce the amount of extension, so its either new shortened ones or shorten the ones I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cammmy Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Always interested :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estately Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 1867 wrote:I had George Stock Ltd (Mt. Wellington) build my height adjustable coil overs and they used a Koni adjustable Toyota Corona insert. I'll add some pic's to my Flickr page if you are interested? How much lower are you guys going? I want to drop my front by about 1" at the most to level it out with the rear, which I've removed the spacers from. I was expecting to just use a shorter spring and leave the strut alone. MK1 estate with mk2 suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cammmy Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 Mine's a lot lower than it was :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
performancebible Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 880 wrote:With my ride hight I definitely don't want soft ;DDoes anyone know of struts that are shorter than the originals? I need to reduce the amount of extension, so its either new shortened ones or shorten the ones I have.I tried for years to find shorter ( struts ) actually shock inserts, for use with 8" short springs. Mk1 golf may have worked. I ran for years with a spacer tube and the top stem practically pushing through the bonnet. But eventually I cut off and ground down the D section ( it doesn't have to be that accurate ) at the top of the stem and re-threading. You just have to be wary of the stem closing through the seal into the barrel and de-gasing. This will not happen on a lowered car with 1/2 inch off the bump stop. You can check on a unit in use where a tell tail mark shows. As to rear roll bars; this is not necessary. Looking at video of the IRS cornering - the rear will lift a wheel; which means the front is rolling ( too far ). Stiffer bars, or two which I fit, are the answer. Stiffer lower springs, more castor etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cammmy Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 Awesome, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
performancebible Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 You can alter/improve the camber of your rear wheels - which looks excessive. ( I think ) Turn the outer U bracket 180 deg. You may have to slightly grind the lip of the box section. I also re-drill the inner U bracket, so as to fit the RTA bush higher up. This will also reduce negative camber on a lowered car. Changing the position of the outer bracket can sometimes cause the rear tire to rub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
performancebible Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 piman wrote:Hello Bill, that is the difficult part. Easy to cut a spring but closing the last coil after cutting involves heating which will affect the temper, retempering is not something the average DIY person is likely to be able to do? As springs are relatively cheap I would opt for new of the specification required. AlecHere's some more. Heating with oxy/act and hammering flat (after grinding a flat on the underside) may have some tempering issues. But this bit is now supported and in practice gives no problems whatsoever. Don't cut off a few coils !! Just 1/2 to 3qtr will drop the car nearly an inch. (It varies & difficult to guess) Changing your ride height this way, and increasing the rate costs hardly nothing. If only you had a gas torch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 If it is a pre facelift 74 car ( ie without droopy shackles) fit the outer shackle from a post 74 car - this will reduce camber by 2deg. Early diff nose (pre 71) will also cause excessive negative when lowered Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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