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what one is it?

i tried using the 'pressed metal'type but had the same problem with the flange where the pinchbolt goes which connects to the steering shaft hitting the tower as you say.
in the end i used the forged 'ford'type which has a short shaft welded into it and modified my existing shaft to connect them together.even so i still had to grind away a small amount of metal from the uj yoke to clear the tower which is easier than removing metal from the tower itself. :-/

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The pressed couplings are usually OK on Heralds, however there is a caveat. In their wisdom, Triumph used two different patterns of steering pinion. One of these has a longer shaft than the other, which moves the coupling up towards the suspension turret. The short shaft is considerably more common on Heralds, the long ones seemingly being used more widely from the early seventies onwards.
Check which part is fouling. Assumong it is the long pinion causing the problem, the clearance problem shouldn;t be too great. It's occasionally only the nyloc nut which fouls, in which case a short nut can be used to get around the problem. On the other hand, the coupling itself can coul on occasional cars, in which case gentle use of a grinder can reliever the edges of the coupling.
Just to clarify also, there is a forged coupling with the same fittings as the Herald type. While similar in langth, this is a lot heavier in construction and usually has clearance issues, even when used  with the short pinion racks,
Cheers,
Bill.

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as most alloy rack mounts do not make contact with the abutement on the rack tube you just unscrew the U bolt and turn the wheel a little and the rack will move left to right and close or increase the gap to the turret, you will then have to reposition the shaft to the idler a spline or two to get the indicator striker in the dead ahead position and the handwheel then stays +  Pete

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