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Mk1 Vitesse Power Steering


kryten

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Has anyone done a conversion to PAS on a Vitesse yet? If so what parts did they use and what problems did they hit along the way?

I am just about to convert my Mk3 MGB to PAS so the wife can drive it (I prefer her to look like a woman, not a Russian weightlifter :P) :P but with not with the MGOC kit which is far too expensive. If this conversion is successfull, then I will probably have a go at fitting it to my Vitesse, as if it works in the B it will work in the Triumph, and for less than £200...

Any history on a conversion will be very useful....

Russ

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Cheers for that - I'll bear him in mind. I have the full setup from an MGF which is a similar system, and being an ex Rover/Triumph/MG main dealer mechanic with a welder and big hammer, thought I'd use the MG as the test run for the "real thing"..... I'd shove it in my Stag if it hadn't already got it as standard....

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Use modern electric power steering.
Nicely hidden, full power available even with the engine off. Adjustable power range if needed.

Remove 20" or so from the steering column, graft the ends onto the electric power steering motor. The motor can be hidden under the dashboard and mounted against the firewall. Just a live feed wire is needed to make it function.
PM me for details - I can provide you with a motor and the interface box needed.

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Just inboard of the bulkhead is a clamp. There's a large nut and a grub screw on one side - DO NOT TOUCH THESE! They provide the pre-load on the column. The other side of the cast block has two 7/16 bolts. These can be loosened to allow the inner column to slide. There are flats machine into the inner and outer. Obviously these must line up, and the clamp may not always pull them straight. I've seen a car before that had the clamp on but not fitted correctly... made for interesting feedback I'd imagine. I didn't drive it myself in that state.

You may need to loosen the wheel too depending on which way you move the column, to maintain contact with the horn ring.

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To not adjust the nut and screw when changing the shaft position assumes that the flat on the shaft is uniform (correctly machined in the first place and undamaged).

Best back the screw off if repositioning the shaft, check tightness of the clamp and then adjust the screw in accordance with the workshop manual specs.

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Thanks Jonny and junkuser, I've already had the grub screw loose and tightened again when I was replacing the rectangular steering column bulkhead gasket.

interestingly, the grub screw/nut wasn't exactly tight when I first came to it.......(think)

sorry for the thread hijack kryten.

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... and of course you need to loosen the clamp at the bottom of the dashboard, so as to be able to move the outer column.  Shouldn't need to loosen the wheel itself.  Moving inner and outer by the same amount keeps the horn ring in proper contact.
C.

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  • 2 months later...

Hello from Switzerland,
I just receive from Rimmer a new quick rack and pinion (2.5 turns insteed of 3.5) for my GT6mk3 and I would include an electric power steering to this modification.
I was surching for a steering from a Vauxhall  Corsa C as a part donor car.
Has anyone realised this sort of modification on these car ?
Has anyone some advice or report ?
:)
richard.maury@bluewin.ch

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