GT6 steering vagueness

[Docman]

I have just taken delivery of a 72 GT6 MK3 - straight into storage until the weather breaks a little.  It's great to have a sporting 2 seater again after a 10 year hiatus.  Oh I still enjoy my 95 XJR but it's just not engaging like my previous British acquisitions:  63 TR4, 65 TR4A, 67 E-Type, 71 TR6 & 73 Europa Special.
This GT6 (although cosmetically unfortunate) runs strong and has no rust, but I need to dig into the front suspension as my first task - the steering is vague.  The seller thought it was A-arm bushings, as the steering rack has new rod ends.  Are these bushing common wear items?  The Europa had so little mass up front, these same bushings could probably last forever.  From the feel of it, I tend to think the issue lies elsewhere - any feedback will be appreciated.
Anyway, glad to be back.  The car feels, looks, sounds and even smells somehow, familiar - like I've been reunited with an old companion.

[tiggrr1]

If the steering is vauge another possible candidate is the steering column to steering rack joint.

When they are worn putting on a new one transforms the steering.

Which reminds me...........................

I must get a new one myself ;D

[tiggrr1]

Oh yeah

Welcome to the forum too !!!

[esxefi]

not to mention the rack mounting rubbers themselves,being under the (usually)leaky timing cover they get contaminated with oil and go soft.solid ally mounts massivley improves the sharpness of the steering.

[Tom2000]

tiggrr1 wrote:

I must get a new one myself ;D

Hmmm me 2! Nice GT6 ;D

[rotoflex]

Possibilities:
1.  worn rack (Have someone else wiggle the wheel back and forth while you watch the rack and its ends before you make this assumption).
2.  loose/worn/missing steering rack to frame anchor bushings
3.  Someone didn't reassemble the stuff which secures & stabilizes the steering column under the dash

[Docman]

Thanks for your responses!  It seems at least a couple of you have had issue with the joint from the steering column to the rack
And thanks Tom2000 for the compliment on the car.  I wish I could share your appreciation of it's present appearance.  
Once I sort through the mechanical bits (I believe them to be few) I will start stripping the interior.  I have a friend that is re-doing everything in black, Bridge of Weir (Aston Martin) hides whilst I prep for a dark green respray.  I'm also planning a de-seam of the rear wings (if I get some guidance) and hope to finish with 5.5 painted wires and performance exhaust.  I'm also on the lookout for Cibie Z-beams (I should have stashed another set when I had the chance).
This one will be "a keeper".

[mpbarrett]

had this on my Mk3 GT6.
Rubber rack mounts had gone soft and when you moved the steering you could see the rack move. Amazing difference when I fitted poly bushs to rack!
Last year I rebuilt the front suspension, new uprights, trunnions, bushs shocks etc. None were worn out but each part was worn with some play. The car is now pleasure to drive. It was expensive to do but worth it,
A GT6 with worn suspension really is nasty to drive...

mike

[rotoflex]

Also, if the H-piece under the dash which surrounds the radio if out, the car will feel all kinds of gooshy.
If your radio is in place, you probably have the H-piece in place.

[Docman]

Great responses, all - thanks!  Two very evident issues are that the steering column attachment to the interior is extremly loose and the dash upright brace (radio holder) is out of the vehicle.  I had thoughts that the loose column may be a contributor, but not the "H" brace.
The previous owner supplied new trunions, so that will be one of the first installs once the Michigan weather improves, along with a thorough inspection of all associated steering and suspension components.
To those who suggested a worn connection from the collumn to the rack, I have attached (2) images.  Which component(s) are you referencing?

[tiggrr1]

The steering column to rack connection (part 142140) can be at fault if worn makes the steering wander about and feel as if there is no direct connection to the wheels.

Also as has been suggested solid alloy rack mounts in place of the rubber (part 147852) can make a big difference though they will transmit more bumps/harhness through the steering wheel.

If all the parts are in tip top condition the steering is very direct and gives lots of feel for what is going on between the tyres and the road surface.

[Docman]

Is this component(s) readily accesible.  It's difficult to determine (by those images) it's exact location.

[tiggrr1]

I don't know how readily available they are on your side of the pond but here is one place that we can get them in the uk

Alloy rack mounting kit     http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/alloyrackmounts.html&xsl=product.xsl

Heavy duty steering coupling    http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/steeringcoupling.html&xsl=product.xsl


The steering coupling on the right is the same as the ones in your parts diagrams (part 142140) and is probably on your car.
Look at the bottom of the steering column under the bonnet (hood) where it joins the steering rack.

The coupling on the left is the upgraded version.

Maybe rotoflex can advise you of parts suppliers in the USA?

[TimW]

You will be amazed at how much support the H frame gives to the dash and upper steering column.  The top structural brace for the steering column uses the same fixing point as the H frame so if thats missing then your upper column isn't braced!

[rotoflex]

I'm too chicken to use aluminum steering rack mounts.
I got polyurethane replacement rack bushings off ebay.

Doesn't Rarebits supply a heavy duty steering column U-Joint, as well as Canley's?

Sources to check for parts in the US:

British Parts Northwest
Moss Motors (you must take their Spitfire catalog AND their TR6 catalog, as apparently the GT6 does not exist to them)
Victoria British

Used parts:
Matthews Foreign Car Parts in Birmingham, AL
Atlanta Import Car Parts (has some new stuff too)

There are some places for performance parts in the US like TSImported
And Quantum Mechanics sells/rebuilds transmissions

Things like a stainless water pipe to replace the rusted one still seem to be best supplied by Canley Classics
Andy Mace pointed out that brake calipers are now available from  Advance Auto Parts!

I have not seen a GT6 with mud flaps since about 1979.  I think it was a blue one in Atlanta.
The Ford paint color "Argent" is the original silver paint that was used on the valve cover & air cleaner cover on the engine, and on the road wheels.
If you look on the bottom of the fuel pump, if it is original, there is a little lever so that you can on a cold day pump fuel into the carbs, and it will start on the first spin.

Get used to hearing:
"It's so small!  I'd be scared to drive it in traffic!"
"Do you get in it, or do you put it on?"
"I WILL NEVER GET IN THE CAR AGAIN WITH YOU!  EVER! (door slam)"

Get a copy of the British Leyland factory parts catalog for the GT6 Mk3; they show up occasionally on ebay.  The parts numbers for the fastners can be translated into the standard nut/bolt/washer sizes for trips to the hardware store.

There is an octopus living in the back of your car, in the right fender.  Just leave him alone, he's fine.

[herald948]

rotoflex wrote:

Andy Mace pointed out....

UH-OH, I've been outed again!  ;D

Speaking of US sources, I'd also add The Roadster Factory (not much in the way of a GT6 catalog, but good parts and good prices) and Spitbits (quite good online catalog, good parts and good prices).

[tiggrr1]

rotoflex wrote:

Doesn't Rarebits supply a heavy duty steering column U-Joint, as well as Canley's?

I'm sure Rarebits and others do, I was just looking for a quick link to give an idea of what was around.

Not trying to suggest one supplier over another but both the above mentioned are of course recommended by many on this board :)

[jonnyk5614]

[quote=3106 and hope to finish with 5.5 painted wires[/quote]

I have them on Spitty and whilst I think they look great, I do get a fair few punctures due to having to use tubes and they are a pain to clean lol!

Just a warning.

However, following forum advice, when fitting tyres I now blow up the tyre to seat it on the rim then completely deflate and reinflate so the tube is central and so far (1000miles), it seems to have done the trick.

With regard to rack mounts, I have changed to solid and the difference is great! And I don't notice excessive wheel vibration because of it.

[willcolumbine]

1045 wrote:

With regard to rack mounts, I have changed to solid and the difference is great! And I don't notice excessive wheel vibration because of it.

I agree with Jonny here. Fitting alloy rack mounts doesn't make much difference to vibration etc. It's a great mod and by no means is it only suitable for track cars etc...

[Docman]

I found the steering rack to collumn coupler at Victoria British, it is a little less expensive than Canley (after I factor in shipping, accross the pond).
For those of you that have done the replacement, what is the best way to attack the project?

Once the steering is sorted, I was thinking about a 13 inch steering wheel - any thoughts out there?

The mud flaps were the first thing to go once I got the car home.  That picture was taken by the previous owner.

[Docman]

rotoflex wrote:

There is an octopus living in the back of your car, in the right fender.  Just leave him alone, he's fine.

Are you referencing the emission plumbing?  If so, these have all been cut by a previous owner.  These tubes are open (not capped), is this bad?

While on the fuel system, my fuel filler hose is full of cracks.  It hasn't split all the way through, but I want to replace it - where can I find one?

[rotoflex]

3106 wrote:

Are you referencing the emission plumbing?  If so, these have all been cut by a previous owner.  These tubes are open (not capped), is this bad?

The multiple hoses of the octupus in the right rear fender go into several vents in the fuel tank.  If the hoses there have been cut & the tank vents do not go to the octopus but only to the open air, the interior will reek of fuel and smoking in the car would be ill-advised!

Depending on the setup, I think only 1 arm of the octopus goes forward to the engine bay, where it is connected to the carbon canister.

If you can get a picture of the engine compartment, it may make it easier to see what's been scrambled there over the years.

Quote:

While on the fuel system, my fuel filler hose is full of cracks.  It hasn't split all the way through, but I want to replace it - where can I find one?

That is a difficult hose to deal with because of the bend and short length.  Somebody mentioned here a replacement they'd found, but what I did was take the hose off, go to an industrial supply company that specializes in hoses (here it was Rubber Hose & Gasket, Inc.), hand it to them, have them find one that is petroleum-resistant & is the same diameter with the same bend, and longer in the lengths from the bend to the ends if unavoidable.  Then, just cut the ends to the appropriate length from the bend.

It's a job of cursing to muscle it in with the hose clamp.  You might also want to remove the overflow drain pipe from the inside of the gas filler cap while getting physical with the filler hose.  The overflow pipe will probably be in just as poor condition.

[esxefi]

3106 wrote:

Once the steering is sorted, I was thinking about a 13 inch steering wheel - any thoughts out there?

if you do decide to go for the ally rack mounts i would not suggest fitting a wooden wheel.
i had one on my car some years back and after fitting the rack mounts i found my hands would start to ache after a longish drive since ALL the feedback from the roadwheels was transmitted to my hands as there was now no rubber in the linkage to absorb small vibrations.but now i have a leather wheel and it does damp some of the vibration making longer drives more comfortable again.

has any one else experienced this?

[jonnyk5614]

esxefi wrote:

if you do decide to go for the ally rack mounts i would not suggest fitting a wooden wheel.
i had one on my car some years back and after fitting the rack mounts i found my hands would start to ache after a longish drive since ALL the feedback from the roadwheels was transmitted to my hands as there was now no rubber in the linkage to absorb small vibrations.but now i have a leather wheel and it does damp some of the vibration making longer drives more comfortable again.

has any one else experienced this?

Please don't take offence at my disagreeing but I have the original wheel - no leather, just plain bakelite and have no such problems. I have done the RBRR and a massive eurotrip with the setup.
Of course, vibration may be being absorbed by some other play in the setup!

[Richard76007]

Hello from Switzerland,
I just receive from Rimmer a new quick rack and pinion (2.5 turns insteed of 3.5) for my GT6mk3 and I would include an electric power steering to this modification.
I was surching for a steering from a Vauxhall  Corsa C as a part donor car.
Has anyone realised this sort of modification on these car ?
Has anyone some advice or report ?
:)
richard.maury@bluewin.ch