jwallbutton Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Just getting my Spit back on the road and ready for an MOT tomorrow morning but I've noticed a split in the drivers side steering rack gaiter. I assume this will fail on the MOT? Is this an easy job to do? Someone mentioned that I would need joint breakers etc. Any help would be most appreciated!CheersJon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Assuming it's identical to the Herald (which I think it is) you will need to undo the trackrod end then the old gaiters can be slipped off and the new one put back on. You will need a ball joint splitter to separate the trackrod ball joint from the hub. When you do it back off the trackrod locking nut as little as possible to act as a marker for when you refit it, otherwise you will have to go a tyre centre to have the tracking realigned. I've never tried this but you might be able to replace the gaiter without a splitter if you slacken off the locknut then turn the steering rack rod to undo the trackrod end. On the other hand the splitters are not expensive and can be bought at any motor factor shop, including Halfords. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llessur Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Have just done mine and they are easy to replace but you will need to at least split the balljoint to do it. You WILL need a balljoint splitter for this - about £10 from a half decent motor factors.You might be able to get the new gaiter on without removing the track rod end but you might as well do this to avoid ripping the gaiter etc - just make sure you put it back exactly the same number of turns (or use the locking nut as a reference) when you've finished.The only niggling problem with this job is actually getting the thicker end of the gaiter back over the inside part of the steering rack when putting it back on. The gaiter will unavoidably get a bit greasy which doesn't make it any easier. Perseverance and a lot of swearing will get this done.Also - make sure you put the correct gaiter on each side of the car. One (the nearside I think) has a bigger diameter on the inside end. Check the one you've just removed against the replacement as a guide... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Llessur wrote: You might be able to get the new gaiter on without removing the track rod end but you might as well do this to avoid ripping the gaiter etc I wasn't suggesting the gaitor could be stretched over the trackrod end, that's sure to split it, but to undo the trackend at the treaded section but leaving the ball attached to the casting. I've no idea if this is possible as I've always used a joint splitter myslef. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llessur Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Steve_Curton wrote:I wasn't suggesting the gaitor could be stretched over the trackrod end, that's sure to split it, but to undo the trackend at the treaded section but leaving the ball attached to the casting. I've no idea if this is possible as I've always used a joint splitter myslef.Ahhh, I getcha - interesting idea and if possible would have saved me a 2 hour hunt for my balljoint splitter the other day ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MURPHIT RITESPIF Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Undo the captive nut on the track rod ball joint and remove it, replace it with a flat nut of the correct size to level with the thread, then give it a couple of sharp taps with a hammer and that normaly loosens the track rod joint.Put a dob of white paint (tippex or like) on the lock nut and thread so that after you remove them to slip the gaitor onto the rack youve got a reference point of where the track rod end has to return to so that tracking is not put out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F1xa Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Agree with Murphit, couple of thumps with large hammer (I hit the side of the arm where the ball joint pin goes through, effectively 'squeezing' it which shocks it loose in most cases). I use this for preference as I often find using a splitter ends up damaging the rubber dust cover on the track rod end, balljoint or whatever. As described i do protect the exposed thread with an old nut first in case the odd blow goes astray.I've used this method for over 30 years on all sorts of vehicles and not broken anything yet......there is the odd one though where you just have to resort to a splitter as nothing else will move it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 206 wrote: I've used this method for over 30 years on all sorts of vehicles and not broken anything yet......there is the odd one though where you just have to resort to a splitter as nothing else will move it!I've been there more than once :) I do agree a splitter can be damaging too, I normally use a combination of both, ie use the splitter and hit the casting at the same time - the combintaion of pressure and impact usually does the job no matter how stubborn they might be.On the other hand, if my other suggestion works (see above) then there might be no need for a splitter at all. I would be very intersted to know if this works as it won't exert presure on the ball joint or damage the rubber boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F1xa Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Yes that's a good call Steve, I have to confess in 30 years this is something I have not tried or previously thought of, can't think of any reason why it shouldn;t work though so will try it next time I have one to change- which may well be the Stag before its next MOT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Clean up teh split and put a bit of gaffer tape over it.Will then pass MOT as no longer split.CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 If you use the method of striking the steering arm at right angles to where the pin of the ball joint goes through, which works very well if sharp enough, be sure to dolly the other side with steel or iron of a weight greater than the weight (mass) of the hammer used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toomanyprojects Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I presume all of you are talking about a fork/wedge type ball joint splitter. Never liked them, very easy to damage the track rod end gaitor.I have one of the pivot, big bolt, scissor, squeezy type. Never damaged a gaitor or the end of the thread with that. Well worth the extra expense.As already mentioned, make sure you mark the position of the lock nut and/or count the turns so that you don't get the tracking out when you put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Easy but greasy - getting the gaiter over the thick end of the rack can be frustrating once it gets slippery - but persevere.Usually once I've taken the balljoint off - and the screw-type splitter is much better than the wedge type - I replace it with a new one, cheap enough off eBay and get that job over with too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toomanyprojects Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Track rod end, £6.35 from Paddocks, know what you pay and know what you get. Why bother with e-bay?????I do agree, though, at that price, you may as well change it while it's off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llessur Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 toomanyprojects wrote:Track rod end, £6.35 from Paddocks, know what you pay and know what you get. Why bother with e-bay?????I do agree, though, at that price, you may as well change it while it's off!I agree with the above - I don't think I've managed to use a fork-type splitter without damaging the rubber gaiter on the balljoint. For the sake of £12 or so I'd be tempted to order two new ones before you start this to save frustration if one gets damaged.The 'pivot' style splitters are much better for this if you can get hold of one - but beware cheap ones - I used a god awful one once that had so much flex in it that the bolt kept slipping off of the opposite arm meaning the balljoint wouldn't spilt. Bah.... :'( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 toomanyprojects wrote:Track rod end, £6.35 from Paddocks, know what you pay and know what you get. Why bother with e-bay?????Because Paddocks sell on ebay and you can pay immediately by Paypal.... easier than a phonecall when you work shifts and are surfing at 2am.... :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 AS Colin has said ..claen it up, put some tape owa it..better still, get some puncture repair patches, and stick them on, Mines been on for yonks, and has no split backit bust, going over the ..fat part.. on the rack, so be care full there,or you could end up busting yours tooooooo :-/ :-/Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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