Jump to content

Steering shaft + wheel


Davemate

Recommended Posts

1)
  Is there a "set position" for the steering shaft to be set at for "dead straight"
There are two tabs on the shaft which I presume are for canceling the indicators,do they have to be set at any position ?


2) I have a pi steering to fit and after being told that there not that strong so don't yank on it or you'll bend it. Are all pi's fitted with power steering and will I be better off waiting until I fit power steering( although I'm still not 100 % sure I'm going to fit it) before I fit the pi steering wheel

3) to fit a smiths oil preasure gauge what "t" piece do I need for the engine end

I believe the connecting tube has standard thread for the gauge end but what about the "t" end
For my herald I got tube from mini spares

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure the tabs are eqidistant from the the indicator, where they are is about right.

MkI PI's did not have PAS, Yes the wheel is a bit weak, I broke the rivets on mine but got some fitted by James. I then had to get Aldridge trimming to recover the wheel.

Rather than a T piece I fit the takeoff at the end of the gallery above the petrol pump. Use an allen key to remove. Then you just need a male to male adapter for the gauge. 1/8bsp (I think)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Richard/Dave,

we had this discussion some time back on the register forum and I believe the outcome was the gallery plugs are 1/8" NPT. Now while they (NPT and BSP) are close in size and thread pitch, they are different and it is worth taking the plug to where you buy the adapter to ensure it is correct? (Thread form is also different)

Alec

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A genuine PI Mk1 wheel is a rather flimsy item and as Richard says is easily broken! They are  not suitable for competition use - do you mean you have the stronger Mk2 wheel?

If you do have a Mk1 wheel and want a Mk2 one instead I have a spare -  could do with a complete Mk1 PI wheel myself as my one does not have a boss.

MUT.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

piman wrote:
Hello Richard/Dave,

we had this discussion some time back on the register forum and I believe the outcome was the gallery plugs are 1/8" NPT. Alec


I think you are right Alec, (my bad)  :B

Think Automotive in Isleworth should be able to help. Take the bits in there if you can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1526 wrote:
A genuine PI Mk1 wheel is a rather flimsy item and as Richard says is easily broken! They are  not suitable for competition use - do you mean you have the stronger Mk2 wheel?

If you do have a Mk1 wheel and want a Mk2 one instead I have a spare -  could do with a complete Mk1 PI wheel myself as my one does not have a boss.

MUT.


I believe I have a mk1 wheel, and I love the look. The one I have has round holes along each of the three arms
Same as this one fitted to gurtie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And I paid a tidy sum for my wheel without a boss!.

Do take care with it because they are flimsy and rim and boss get broken easily as I have found in my searches (and from Richard). I do suspect it may not survive the rigors of serious competition and may have a problem with scrutineering because the wheel is supposed to be one piece with the boss, spokes and rim from one stanping but that may only apply to aftermarket rims and original factory items can get away with it

On my Mk1 'period rally replica' I have gone down the Motolita route because that is the one surviving aftermarket wheel from the 1960s and complies fully with MSA specification - I broke the bank and bought one for my Herald in 1968 and then moved up to a posh engraved one in 1972 when I built my rallying Morgan Plus 4.

I'll show mine to my MOT guy and see what he says - he quite by chance happens to be Paul Loveridge the top guy in Historic Rally scrutineering ..... :-/.  

MUT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1344 wrote:


I believe I have a mk1 wheel, and I love the look. The one I have has round holes along each of the three arms
Same as this one fitted to gurtie



Blimey! That's an old picture of Gertie's interior. When was that taken?  :-/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok waffle time !
Am I putting this together correctly
I've had to drill the holes out a tiny weenie bit to fit some nuts and bolts. Is it ok to leave this much hanging at the back,they are well shallower than the casing( excuse the poor pic)



1)
I presume I've got the first bit on correctly as the horn stem lines up with the hole and groove

If I turn the plate 180 then the horn thing wouldn't be supported by the thicker suport behind


2)
   Does this go on next and then the whole lot gets bolted onto the steering colum

Again it can only go on one way due to the cut out for the horn push thing


3)
Once on the car the upper shroud goes on,again it can only go one way I presume as this metal prong will only fit into one slightly larger groove

But that means none of the smaller prongs line up with only slots,are they ment to line up ?


4)
   I also presume the small prongs on this piece has to slot into the horn push like so when it's all fitted with the brass tab lining up with the horn springy tube thing


Quick edit
Is this little hole supposed to line up with anything to hold it on

Sorry to waffle on a bit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1344 wrote:


I've used split washers and I was going to "double nut" them and add a dab of lock tight.


Don't overdo it Dave - you may need to undo them at some time and too much locking can make them impossible to undo especially as you are using screws.

I have always just relied on a new lock washer (split or 'shakeproof') as Motolita have done for years, but if you want just a bit extra either use a lock nut (a half nut) or a spot of screwlock NOT nutlock.

MUT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1526 wrote:


Don't overdo it Dave - you may need to undo them at some time and too much locking can make them impossible to undo especially as you are using screws.

MUT


I had to drill out the holes as the threads were knackered,I'm useing bolts and nuts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...