Nick_Toledo72 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Hi fellow Triumph owners....I noticed a day ago that when I move my light switch from side lights to main lights... it's just stays on side lights.When I 'flash' my lights, both my main lights become lit (all 4 headlights), meaning its not a bulb issue.Looks to me like it's something to do with the turn swith on the steering coloumn? Is this common & would this be my first port of call to take out and replace with new or recon switch?ThanksNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Common problem, the dip/indicator switch has burnt out........ happens as there's lots of load going through small contacts.Replace switch, then see thread somewhere on here about relaying your headlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_Toledo72 Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 Thanks for you quick reply Alan...So to be sure....the dip/indicator switch is the turn swith on the steering coloumn (the whole unit) ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 no the turn (master) switch on the side of the cowl is not what I think he is referring to, its the indicator/dip/main stalk - these are prone to burnt contacts wheras the master switches are usually ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Hello Nick, do neither dip or main beam work as it would be unusual to lose both? Certainly the indicator and dip\main switch can have problems but it's worth first checking that there isn't a problem with the main (rotary) switch? If you remove the shroud you can visually inspect the indicator and dip\main switch, blue is the feed from the main light switch and blue\white is main beam, blue\red is the dip beam. The contacts are easily inspected and can even be tweaked to give more pressure to the contacts. If you have a meter check for voltage on the blue.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_Toledo72 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 Hi Alec,All other operations work on the stalk... ie flash, permenet flash, indicators, horn etc.I have found a recon rotary switch on ebay, so I will fit it to see if it cures the problem..It's just happened, just when the MOT is due.... typical !! ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Hello Nick, with respect, it's better to look first and determine the problem. The column switch has many contacts which is why other parts function OK. The headlamp flash does use the main beam contact but it's supply is a permanent live (purple wire). As I said it's possible that slightly bending the contact arms will restore their functions but it will be short term. The advice to fit relays for a long term solution is a good one.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_Toledo72 Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 Thanks for your advice Alec..... Will take off the cowling and have a look at those contacts. Will let you know what I find :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 It is pretty easy to dismantle the rotary switch (carefully bend out the crimped sections) and clean the contacts. I had the same problem you describe on my PI and it was the contacts in the rotary switch.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 It's possible to salvage a burnt column switch by using a pair of relays.Use a primary relay from the main light switch. This in turn is fed through a changeover relay between full & dip. The changeover relay does away with one of the feeds from the burnt out switch, so the damaged contact can be eliminated.Hopefully that makes sense, it's a fix I've used on this lighting arrangement in the past. If both full & dip contacts are burned (which is unlikely) then you will have to replace the column switch,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_Toledo72 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 I just managed to get a few moments to have a look at the light rotary switch.....I might come over like a real thicko here.... but, how do you remove it from the cowling?A special spanner? Help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Push the pin in the hole in and the knob comes off....then its easy.....isnt it Nick ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 :B Yeah..... when you know how. There is a small hole in the outer surface of the knob, and at the bottom lurks a spring loaded button on the shaft which needs to be poked in to allow the knob to be withdrawn. Suprisingly hard to spot that critical hole I found......Once the knob is off, ordinary spanner or even pliers..... and that's a pre-facelift switch. I'll get my anorak......I know alot more about big Triumphs than I did 9 months ago - sure there's plenty left though.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_Toledo72 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 aawwwwwwwwwwLittle hole located.... pushed a thin alan key in...... hey presto....the knob fell off !!yyyaaayyyRight..... on with getting the issue of no dip beam sorted. (i.e goes to side lights on first turn of the swith, but no dip on second turn... just stays on side lights)I've checked the stalk by the way, and all operations work fine on it, so this will be my first port of call.Thanks for you help guys... Hopefull next post will say I've sorted it ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Note that this is the same procedure for the push pull switches.Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_Toledo72 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 piman wrote:If you remove the shroud you can visually inspect the indicator and dip\main switch, blue is the feed from the main light switch and blue\white is main beam, blue\red is the dip beam. The contacts are easily inspected and can even be tweaked to give more pressure to the contacts. If you have a meter check for voltage on the blue.AlecI have RED - RED/GREEN - BLUE - RED YELLOW -BROWNBLUE = Main FeedRED/GREEN and the others ? ... my electrical diagram isn't making it very clear :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Brown is the feed. Should be live.Red/yellow goes to the panel lights - should be live in any position except off/parkRed/green is side lights etcBlue is the main lights - goes off the the dip switch. Should be live in the main lights position.If pre-facelift you may have another too (Red) for the parking lights.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Nick_Jones wrote:Brown is the feed. Should be live.Red/yellow goes to the panel lights - should be live in any position except off/parkRed/green is side lights etcBlue is the main lights - goes off the the dip switch. Should be live in the main lights position.If pre-facelift you may have another too (Red) for the parking lights.Nickmissed one Nick.....not sure of the colours but there's a fog light position on early cars.Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Red with Orange stripe 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radders Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 You two really need to get out more! ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Yes, Yes, but that isn't in my crappy Haynes manual and I wasn't about to take the the car to bits again to check :PNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Hello Nick, "I have RED - RED/GREEN - BLUE - RED YELLOW -BROWN"I was talking about dip switch colours relevant to the dip\main\flash contacts, not the main lighting switch.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_Toledo72 Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Hi..Looks like I've started quite a colour discussion ;DThanks to you all for checking this out for me.....However... I have replaced the old rotary switch with a recon one... and unfortunatley I have the same problem :(Looks like its a issue with the stalk after all, seems strange as all the functions work, but hey ho.Being as the MOT is so close is there a quick fix for this? like just create a circuit off two or one wire(s) off the stalk and add a switch? The problem is that I don't have proper time to deadicate as I'm off on holiday soon and wanted to get it sorted before then?Your thoughts?Thanks againNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Hello Nick, "seems strange as all the functions work,"Surely not as you don't have any dip\mains?Take the column shroud off and check for voltage at the blue wire with the main switch in the headlight position. If you have, and with the column switch in the dip position, the contacts fed by the blue and the blue\red should be touching, In the main position the contacts fed by the blue and blue\white should be touching. When you switch between dip and main these contacts should move slightly which means they have a slight pressure. Try using some wet and dry to clean up the contacts and bend them slightly if there is insufficient pressure.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Buy a second hand (working switch). Takes 1 - 2 hours to change.Then fit relays to protect it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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