2500s Power Steering Issue

[Billh]

Hello  all,

Problem with my 2500s Power Steering.

At idle lock to lock (wheels on the ground) it works effortlessly. But as soon as I add RPM's the belt screams its head off both directions. Unbearable to drive.   The belt is really tight.

Any thoughts before I start pulling it apart?

tks
Bill :)

[andy thompson]

I would like to profess to be a master of hydraulics but I'm not - I would try another pump. They very rarely give trouble

[Gt6s]

Your belt is bottoming out on the bottom of the V in the pulleys you need a new belt.

[andy thompson]

Gt6s wrote:

Your belt is bottoming out on the bottom of the V in the pulleys you need a new belt.

Sir you are a genius (and I am thick) - and may have solved the same half issue on my Oz 2500 - PAS belt piggy backs of the water pump (air con uses the PAS pulley) My alternator belt is a bit tired (it is the hardest to swap) - sorted  8) 8)

[Billh]

Thanks for the responses

Replaced pump....no change, replaced belt ....no change.....sadly looks like the rack has to  be rebuilt
What is confusing me is that it is fine at idle....the load on the pump is the same...just the rpm different I presume producing higher pressure ...pressure relief valve?

thanks again
Bill

[Gt6s]

lagerzok wrote:

Sir you are a genius (and I am thick) - and may have solved the same half issue on my Oz 2500 - PAS belt piggy backs of the water pump (air con uses the PAS pulley) My alternator belt is a bit tired (it is the hardest to swap) - sorted  8) 8)

Andy I only put that sugestion on as there a lot of crap belts on the market (and as a first step) the ones with the notches on the inside, they stretch like blazes and very quickly end in the bottom of the V. A belt in the bottom of the V will squeal no matter how tight you make it.
My belt of choice is the good old solid type normaly available from hydraulic or bearing supliers.

[mikew]

3327 wrote:

Thanks for the responses

Replaced pump....no change, replaced belt ....no change.....sadly looks like the rack has to  be rebuilt
What is confusing me is that it is fine at idle....the load on the pump is the same...just the rpm different I presume producing higher pressure ...pressure relief valve?

thanks again
Bill

The PRV is easy to remove without dismantling the entire pump. Remove the pipe to the pump that screws into the large union on the rear,

Remove the union, (all the fluid will now drain out!) the prv is behind this, and will nearly fall out as there is a spring behind it. Use a thin screwdriver or thin long nose pliers to pull out the piston assembly that is in front of the spring. The prv is in this piston, secured by a nut, that has a small gause filter in it. If you undo the nut from the piston, theres a ball bearing behind it, with a plunger and spring. Check for dirt, blocked filter etc etc and reassemble.

If you want to see pictures this will be on my blog tonight as I have just rebuilt my PAS pump this morning

mike

[Nick Jones]

In my opinion it is the PRV sticking.  I'd fix this immediately before you bust the pump or split a pipe.

Nick

[Billh]

mikew wrote:

The PRV is easy to remove without dismantling the entire pump. Remove the pipe to the pump that screws into the large union on the rear,

Remove the union, (all the fluid will now drain out!) the prv is behind this, and will nearly fall out as there is a spring behind it. Use a thin screwdriver or thin long nose pliers to pull out the piston assembly that is in front of the spring. The prv is in this piston, secured by a nut, that has a small gause filter in it. If you undo the nut from the piston, theres a ball bearing behind it, with a plunger and spring. Check for dirt, blocked filter etc etc and reassemble.

If you want to see pictures this will be on my blog tonight as I have just rebuilt my PAS pump this morning

mike

Thanks Mike I'll give it a go