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martinb

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Spitfire 1500 has been laid up for many years and I'm gradually going through the process of getting it roadworthy.

Engine is now running but I am unable to engage any gears.  Clutch master cylinder has had seals examined/replaced, and system has been filled with new fluid and bled.  Clutch pedal feels like it should, and feels like it has the right level of resistance as the clutch is depressed - ir it doesn't simply hit the floor - and there are no visible fluid leaks.

With he engine off, I can successfully move the gear lever into each gear.  With the engine running, I'm unable to get into any gear.

Any advice on what I should check next?

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Possibly the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel ? it can happen after being laid up over a winter in damp conditions.

Take your handbrake off, put the car in gear and try to start it. Sometimes the sudden application of torque from the engine will free the clutch plate with a bang. The car will jolt forward or backwards so be ready with the brakes or alternatively jack up the rear end on axle stands.

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4277 wrote:
Possibly the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel ? it can happen after being laid up over a winter in damp conditions.

Take your handbrake off, put the car in gear and try to start it. Sometimes the sudden application of torque from the engine will free the clutch plate with a bang. The car will jolt forward or backwards so be ready with the brakes or alternatively jack up the rear end on axle stands.


Thanks for the quick response.  Since I've yet to get the brakes fully working, I'd better lift the rear end!

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4277 wrote:
Possibly the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel ? it can happen after being laid up over a winter in damp conditions.

Take your handbrake off, put the car in gear and try to start it. Sometimes the sudden application of torque from the engine will free the clutch plate with a bang. The car will jolt forward or backwards so be ready with the brakes or alternatively jack up the rear end on axle stands.


Unfortunately no joy with the above technique.

What should I try next?

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4277 wrote:
Is the pivot arm moving when you press the clutch ? If not the pivot bush marked on this photo may be stuck :(

Sorry , link no longer available


Had just been reading about that somewhere else.  Is it accessible from underneath or is it necessary to remove the gearbox tunnel inside the car to provide access from the top?

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4277 wrote:
Is the pivot arm moving when you press the clutch ? If not the pivot bush marked on this photo may be stuck :(

Sorry , link no longer available


If you remove the starter motor you can see/feel where the push rod is working or in situ
Mine was not when i did a maintenance job once
By using that method and loosening the bell housing I was able to lever it back into place

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update....

Have removed the clutch slave cylinder, which was a bit manky but seemed to be operating ok.  While it's out I'll replace the seals etc.

With the slave cylinder removed, I am able to move the push rod by hand.  It has about 1cm of travel - is this about right?

With the starter motor removed, I can see the clutch arm moving when the push rod is manually moved in and it looks as though it's correctly pivoting on the pin.

Assuming all of the above sounds correct and implies those parts are working correctly, is there anything else I should check now?  or is the next step to remove gearbox and clutch to determine if the clutch plate and fly wheel need freeing up?

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Hello Martinb,

I would get the brakes working, as you'll need them anyway. The clutch will free if you can drive the car with the clutch pedal depressed, heavy throttle and brake hard. I've done this several times over the years and it's much easier than removing the gearbox.

Alec

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piman wrote:
Hello Martinb,

I would get the brakes working, as you'll need them anyway. The clutch will free if you can drive the car with the clutch pedal depressed, heavy throttle and brake hard. I've done this several times over the years and it's much easier than removing the gearbox.

Alec


Brakes are now (almost) in working order - just need a bleed after finding a small leak due to a missing washer.  Unfortunately I can't drive the car at all at the moment though because of the clutch - once the engine is started I can't get into a gear to get the thing rolling!  (We'll overlook the fact it's not got an tax, insurance etc to allow me to take it on the road.)

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Before trying to free the clutch using the method described initially, get the engine/gearbox etc really warm - this helps release the plate from the flywheel.

Also having the rear wheels off the ground reduces the shock effect, so if you don't want to wait until the brakes are fixed, keep all 4 wheels on the ground and chock them or hold the car up against something soft like a matress. Foot right down on the clutch and try to start the engine.

Pow!

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Hello Martin,

"once the engine is started I can't get into a gear to get the thing rolling! "

Obviously we haven't explained it very well. The procedure is to warm the engine up so that it gives full power, stop it and engage first gear, keep the clutch pedal down and start the engine. The car will drive straight away, you need to heel and toe to brake and keep power on the engine. I've never gone much more than a car's length before the clutch is freed.

Alec

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piman wrote:
Hello Martin,

"once the engine is started I can't get into a gear to get the thing rolling! "

Obviously we haven't explained it very well. The procedure is to warm the engine up so that it gives full power, stop it and engage first gear, keep the clutch pedal down and start the engine. The car will drive straight away, you need to heel and toe to brake and keep power on the engine. I've never gone much more than a car's length before the clutch is freed.

Alec


Alec

I get it now!  Thanks for clarifying!

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My GT6 used to suffer with a seized clutch pretty regularly back along when I lived in a previous house which had a less than watertight garage that tended to be a bit damp.

The method I used to use is not for the faint hearted as it's rather dangerous but it works every time...  You will need to get the brakes working first though. The good thing is that you won't have to take the car out on the road which is useful if it is without MOT or sorned.

Jack up the rear end and ensure it is secured extremely well on axle stands. Ensure that the front wheels are very securely chocked so the car can't possibly move forwards or backwards. Start up the car and get the engine nice and hot. Stop the engine, wedge the clutch pedal down with a sturdy piece of wood the right length so it holds the clutch pedal fully down wedged against the cross member just in front of the seat.  Put the car in 2nd or 3rd gear and start it again so the rear wheels spin away. Give it some revs to increase the efefctive rod speed and stamp hard on the brake pedal like you were doing an emergency stop. The clutch will either free up with a big bang or the engine will stall. If it stalls repeat the excercise until it the clutch frees up. Even when my clutch was very siezed up it would never take more than 4 or 5 attempts.

no doubt there will be some comments about how dangerous this method is but I come from an age before health and safety regulations made everyone a big wuss!

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You could try another method that has worked in the past for me to free a stuck driven plate.
With someone in the car with their foot pushing the clutch down and a gear selected (can't remember which would be best, but try em all), someone else (or more) rocking the car forwards and backwards. it should free off with a bang.
Basically it the same as other methods but the engine don't need to be running or car jacked up.
8)

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