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Front Wheel Bearing - By the Book or Tighter?


Mj17

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I'm a little concerned by one of my front wheel bearings.  I've tightened it up by the book - finger tight and back off till you can get a split pin through one of the holes but that's left me with a lot of movement rocking the wheel - enough to see the rim moving.

Thing is it's almost past one hole (so your backing off a hole's with) but to get the other hole to line up would mean going past finger-tight.

Or is the bearing just past it?



Leave for Le Mans in 21 days and paranoia building :)

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Yes, there are two holes in the stub axle and with it tightened up by hand there doesn't seem to be any rock (though much harder to detect just rocking the hub).  Touble is the next hold back is quite a long way back and the other hole means going tighter still.

Very nervous when it comes to wheel bearings - had my Spitfire MOTed by a friendly local place who said "You wheel bearings were a little loose so we tightened them up for you".  Two weeks later the D/S bearing gave up and friction welded the inner race to the stub axle.  The stub axle didn't like this (the wheel at this point trying to make it rotate at 50MPH) and snapped in two.  Worst bit was the AA man jacking it up (I'd told them it wasn't drivable but have you ever got one to believe you?) to find hub supported by inner race and remnents of stub axle and that the break disk/caliper has been what turned the wheel to get off the motorway!

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Hello MJ17,

personally I'd prefer too loose than too tight. (the effects of which you have already experienced)

However, i suggest you remove the hub entirely and check that the stub axle is not worn where the bearing sits.

Alec

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If in doubt, I'd always go by the book.  The instructions to leave (from memory) "just perceptible play" would be an instruction drawn up from Timken's advice to Triumph, i.e. from the designer of the bearings.

If the correct play cannot be achieved using either of the two splitpin holes, I put the splitpin in the nearest hole and then turn the nut until the correct play is achieved.  This method sometimes bends the splitpin a touch but I have had no trouble removing it at a later date.

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Dizzy wrote:
This method sometimes bends the splitpin a touch but I have had no trouble removing it at a later date.


To be clear you over-tighten to get the pin in then loosen off, beinding the pin to get where you need to be?

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I have just done both sides on my car, do them up finger tight, if there is still play do them up further but not so as to affect the free play in the wheel when you spin it.

I had a freind decide to have a go at my passenger side after I asked him if there was too much movement, bloody hell it was tight after he finished, the wheel would not spin round very far!

Basically tighten until you have no rocking (a little is fine) and that the wheel still spins nice and free, personally I would have thought having too loose bearings would be worse.

Mike

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Mj17 wrote:


To be clear you over-tighten to get the pin in then loosen off, bending the pin to get where you need to be?


Yes, that is what I was trying to say.  In fact the splitpin doesn't necessarily need to bend; it may be enough just to bring the nut back a bit until it's tight against the splitpin.

After fitting a new bearing, setting everything up before packing it with grease can help in finding the exact point where the bearing is neither too tight nor too loose.  This entails tightening the nut whilst spinning the hub and stopping immediately resistance to turning is felt.  Then turn the nut back (if necessary) until a splitpin hole lines up, mark the nut at that point and remove the nut & washer.  Pack the bearing with grease, refit the nut and washer and tighten until the mark lines up, then fit the splitpin and cap.

I suppose it's fairly obvious but I'll just mention that no grease should be put in the cap.

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1977Triumph wrote:


Mine had a fair bit of grease in when i removed the caps, whats the effect of too much grease in the cap?


Hello Mike.  The cap and its little air vent hole is supposed to prevent grease going where it shouldn't as things hot up and expand.  Sort of acts as an expansion chamber.

I'm sure a little grease in the cap does no harm but I have found them almost filled, which risks grease being forced past the seal and perhaps contaminating the brake discs etc.

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