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Me too.  Flying-saucer type tool made up and attached via wheel studs.  I wound the jacking bolt up as tight as I could get it with a 3' breaker bar (and it's a nice fine UNF thread with plenty of grease) and.......... nothing happened.  I beat on it with my biggest hammer for a while.......... nothing happened.  I poured a kettle full of hot water over the hub and beat on it some more........ nothing happened.  Added a piece of scaffolding tube and managed to tighten it a bit more....... nothing happened....... beat it, hot water plus beat, big blow-lamp plus beat........ nothing - except the flange is well bent now.   Hate them.....  I'm told they do sometimes come apart!

Nick

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Often, a 20 tonne press isn't man enough to shift those flanges.

I've heard of people 'shocking' them off (whacking with a big hammer) but be careful not bend the flanges or damage the stub axle.

Any decent gearbox or transmission place should be able to press them off for you, or get exchange ones from the usual places.

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sorbs wrote:
Often, a 20 tonne press isn't man enough to shift those flanges.

I've heard of people 'shocking' them off (whacking with a big hammer) but be careful not bend the flanges or damage the stub axle.

Any decent gearbox or transmission place should be able to press them off for you, or get exchange ones from the usual places.


I did try a 20 tonne press on this one first.  It got to 20 tonnes - and nothing happened - except the press relief valve stopped it going any higher.....

Nick

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Hello Craig,

I've done three or four so far, only one failure which was an old hub with a split pin drilling, which collapsed and ruined the end of the spindle. I use a disc of 3\4" steel bolted to the hub with four nuts and a two leg Sykes Pickavant puller, it has about a 1" diameter lead screw.  Screw it up tight, a few wacks on the end of the lead screw with a 2Lb ball pein hammer, tightening as I go then bang, it lets go. I don't believe heat is very useful as both the hub and the spindle will heat up together. Everything has to be very rigid, any flex and you will not get any real force on the taper, and I believe that such a set up is preferable to hydraulic presses as you don't get the shock that a hammer gives.

Alec

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1529 wrote:
Didn't someone suggest taking it for a drive with the nuts loose?

Andy


Yes it was a tip I was given by an ex Police mechanic and is what they did with their PIs.  Nut slighthy loose, slow short drive (note slow not as Chatters thought) and problem usually sorted.

I've never had to do it myself so cannot vouch for it but I was advised it worked most of the time with no adverse problems.

Ted

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Be very wary of anything but the correct tool for removing the flanges .. Many are ruined by incorrect methods no matter how well thought out . Also heating the stub axle is a bad idea as it can have a detrimental effect on an already known weak point .
Remember correct overhaul of these hubs is a major safety issue with these cars especially as the parts now are approaching 50 years old .
Buy exchange hubs from a reputable dealer or send them to me and I'll remove the flanges properly !

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