flimsyboat Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 hello there everyonei am looking for people opinions on upgrading the suspension on my 1600 vit to rotoflex. i have to replace the chassis anyway and was wondering what would be involved to fit as a conversion?does the body have to change in anyway?is there any benefit or is it just throwing money away?any views much appreciatedRob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I would say, having just about fitted a rotoflex (CV though) setup to my project spitfire, it is quite possibly not the best value way forward. It is a bit complex, but the biggest pitfall is the costs. The repro rubber rotoflex's are not at all long lasting, genuine ones are very expensive (probably over £100 each for the next batch) Fitting CV type driveshafts is a good idea, but they are not exactly bargain basement either.I would suggest the best value by a long way is getting hold of a courier van rear spring with a spacer block. Try Bill at rarebits, he commissioned a batch and may still have some. The conversion is simple, pretty cheap (under £150 for a spring and spacer block) and the car will handle almost as well as a rotoflex setup, but without all the hassle. All for a fraction of the rotoflex costs (expect £1000 for a reconditioned set of shafts and odds and ends, possibly more!)As to chassis/body mods, The chassis needs a pair of rotoflex brackets (ie mk2 vitesse) and you can use lever arm dampers, or attach adaptors to use a special pair of normal shocks. If you use CV shafts you can use your normal shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Body is nearly the same. Only difference I can think of is that the rotoflex cars have the handbrake cable guides on the floor under the rear seat whereas others have the guides on the chassis. You can't use the chassis guides on the roto cars as the cables catch on the rotos themselves and even if you take the CV route, you'll end up with a handbrake that self-adjusts according to ride height (even more than usual). I think there were bump stops on the rear wheel arches too.Chassis is also nearly the same. You'll need to add the lower wishbone mount to the main chassis rails, Canleys sell these. Also, original roto Vitesses used lever-arm dampers and there is a strange additional structure at the rear of the main rails for those and a droop-stop. As the lever-arm dampers are not wonderful things, I'd suggest converting to telescopics with the chassis extension brackets which means you don't need that structure and does away with the need for bump and droop stops as well. The radius arm brackets are also in a different place on the rear outriggers - further inboard.Complete roto sets in decent condition are hard to find/expensive these days - much simpler to simply go swing spring?CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 There is a third alternative to Clive's excellent suggestion of a Courier spring (if available) and Nick's suggestion of a swing-spring kit: camber compensator. All of these three are effective, bolt in without any cutting, welding or other alterations, and are completely reversible!(There's even the possibility of having an original rear spring dearched or just using a spring spacer, combined with careful setting of rear toe-in/out and all the usual making sure bushes are sound and bolts tightened when rear wheels are in normal position rather than hanging at their lowest point while the rear is on jackstands, etc., etc.!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 A Courier van spring is presumably just a stronger version of the standard spring? Could you get the same effect by combining the leaves of two standard springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Not so. It is also rather flatter.Shame it wasn't used elsewhere in the range of cars. My estate (retro fitted with the courier spring and a 1" spacer, plus 440lb front springs) handled pretty well (despite Doug desperate efforts to get it on its roof on an autosolo) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I would go Rotoflex with a CV conversion. I'm sure you can do it for less than £1000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Richard_B wrote:I would go Rotoflex with a CV conversion. I'm sure you can do it for less than £1000.Sure. Best technical solution that stays true to an original Triumph design. (Best technical solution would probably be Jangos double wishbone chassis "module" though that is a bit extreme for most and could lead to vehicle ID issues)Can be done for less than £ 1000 for sure, though some patience and effort needed.My point earlier was that you can get 80% + of the way there with considered mods to the swing axle arrangement which will be perfectly adequate for most uses.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I fitted at the back,Modded rear swing spring (don't know exactly what cliftyhanger did and he can't remember ! ) it's lowered the by a couple of inches and given me loads of neg chamber !Spax adjustables set quite firmOn the front, 480 lb springs with Spax height ajustable shocks set firm ish and the thicker anti roll bar Whole car polybushed all round (red)Front springs and polly's I got new,all the rest from Clifty Total cost probably about £300The car handles fantastic although it is a bit firm,I could soften it up a bit but it is so much fun to leave bigger, better and faster cars on the twisty bits it an't going to happen ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordon T Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I use my Vitesse 2-litre Mk1 Daily and have never had a problem with the back end jacking up or over steering. :)And i've took some pretty tight and sharp bends ;), However, i must say that when going over rugged surfaces the back end likes to move, and slide a bit. ha ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 My £1000 for a rotoflex convesion was a guesstimate based on buying a second hand setup, a pair of new proper rotoflexes, bearings, a raer spring plus set of brackets for the chassis. Plus all the faff of the bearings and getting that right....CV conversion, yep, can be done cheaply, but requires a lot of effort still compared to a courier spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Dave ,if you have a hard ride with a swinger , whip the shocker off and see if there is any up travel left,on ours we had to take the bump rings out of the top can to get any ride travel and sinking continued till it was dumped and that was a new swinger spring kit. I will stick with the courier and drop plate no roll and more on rails than the boat effect of the swinger in a tin top .Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Pete, I think the hardness comes from the fact I have got the ajustable Spax wound up. If I push down on the rear the car will bounce once,so there is movement and if I hit bump I don't here any banging or get any jolting so I don't think anything is bottoming out Although I will have a look and check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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