dave mc Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I'm about to put it all back together, having replaced the diff, rotoflex couplings (metalastik ones ), new dampers, bushes, trunnions etc.What is the best order to do it all in. I'm pretty sure the spring eye bolts to the vertical link are last (spring lifter at the ready!), but does it make any difference in what order I do the other bits?My thoughts are: Attach the half shafts to the diff flange, then attach inner wishbone to the chassis.Along the right lines? Or doesn't it matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G8HSV Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Assuming the diff and rear spring are in place the correct order isa) fit the lower wishbone to the chassis...dont fully tighten the bolts yetb) fit the rear spring..... using the spring lifter and jacksc) fit the driveshaft to the diffd) fit the dampere) fit the radius armf) tighten the lower wishbone nutg) refit handbrake and hydraulic hose...and bleed.S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyf Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I've recently replaced the spring eye bushes on my Mk2 Vitesse, the most awkward part was getting the spring eye bolt re-fitted, we ended up grinding a point on the old bolt to knock through the vertical link uprights and the spring eye bush, then drifted the new bolt through from the opposite end, its to do with the Rotoflex couplings stopping everything lining up.Try and get the spring as high as possible with the spring lifter, it helps the spring eye bush to line up better with the vertical link holes?If you've only got a rolling chassis, you will definetly need help, or plenty of weight on the chassis to stop it lifting when you use the spring lifter, I've heard people using four long lengths of 3/8" UNF threaded rod fitted in the diff to help pull the spring down onto the diff last, with everything else fitted, but have never used this method myself?Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 Thanks Gary. I must admit, it's a job that I'm not looking forward to.Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 This is why I converted my driveshafts to CV. You do not have any of this pushing/shoving/prising to worry about. You still need to lift the spring but there is no tension in the driveshaft with a CV conversion.Always worried my I was going to do an injury trying to lever the VL into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 Yes Richard. I know all about the conversion, but want to keep the car original. Even stayed with the lever arm dampers and drop links.Perhaps I will change my mind once I come to get it back together!! :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyf Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I can see why some people convert the Mk2 suspension to CV or even the Swing Spring, its very time consuming and expensive to rebuild, what with the price of Metalastic Rotoflexes on the up, plus all the other parts needed, Trunnion kits, various bushes, UJ's, Wheel Bearings, hubs, etc your probably looking at £300-£400 per side for all the parts alone:-/I some times wish Triumph had fitted a simple live axle on the Herald/Vitesse/Spitfire/GT6 range of cars, but then again back in the 50's/60's Independant rear suspension presumably was seen as a big selling point by Standard Triumph Engineers? Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 I've spent about £400 in all on the rear suspension, but that does include replacing a vertical link that we botched trying to get the long bolt out of the vertical link and a couple of hours labour removing hub, putting coupling on and replacing hub (couldn't face doing it myself).New diff from Mike Papworth was £350!!However, it's all part of the fun, so I am told, and I do want to keep it as original as possible. I've realised that there is no point being precious about the cost of things, within reason. If it has to be done, it has to be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyf Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 A usefull mod to stop the long bolt seizing is to drill the vertical link and tap out 1/4 UNF for a grease nipple, got this mod on my car and I give it a couple of squirts with the grease gun every year. Should help when I next need to dismantle it? :)I've kept the Lever arm Dampers on my car, its supposed to give a softer ride than telescopic dampers?Is it going to be on the road for summer then Dave? 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 Which summer are you asking about? Dad bought me the car in 1981 for passing my o level maths a year early. (Forgive me if you've heard this before - told it countless times) Cost £80 as a mot failure.Did three years of cutting out the rot and replacing with good metal. Dad started his career as a sheet metal worker. The bonnet is perfect now, as are all the panels.I went off to uni in 1984 and project more or less stopped. When I came home in 1987 had totally lost interest in the car.Car kept in dry storage all this time.Interest re ignited last summer and I've worked pretty keenly on it since. Tub off, shot blasted and primed in zinc phosphate. Looks good.Once rear suspension finished (soon) on to brakes and then on to front. Bulkhead needs tidying up. Summer 2013 might be more realistic!! No rush ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyf Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I know what you mean!Bought mine in March 2002, stated to all friends and family it'll be on the road for that summer(dance)Dream on, four and a bit years later, its on the road for the Summer of 2006 ;DIt was worth it in the end though, keep at it, I'm sure you will get it done?When you reach low points (And you will :'() just keep thinking about cruising with the top down listening to the burble of that straight six :)That'll keep you going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 I've had a few low points already Gary. I think the worst was realising that a car I had owned for nearly 30 years, and that came off the road when it was 12, had a 1600 diff on!This meant taking off the old diff, but the ferrel in one of the rear bushes had welded solid to the bolt, so had to cut open the chassis, burn out the old bush/ferrel, then re weld the chassis.All this after the chassis had been carefully sanded down and painted. That was a real kick in the nuts, and when you realise how much there is left to do, it is very tempting to give up. The best advise I have had is just take one little bit at a time and do the best you can. Otherwise, you just get overwhelmed with the enormity of it all.The car is still at my dads about 15 miles away so that holds me back too, but slowly and surely I will get there.Thanks for the words of encouragement - much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 Just going around all the bolts to tighten them up properly. The rotoflex bolts should have 65-70 lb ft torque.How do you get on to the bolts with a torque wrench without taking the hub off? I can get on with a ring spanner but need to make sure they are tight enough so need to do it to torque settings. I refuse to take the hub off at this stage.Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 dave,You are right to want to check.If the bolts were torqued up correctly when they were asembled, then they will mostly be right. You just want to make sure that none have been left undone.So compare the tightness around the donut. Start anywhere, lean on a long spanner and note where it JUST begins to go tighter. Take it no further. Then do the next and compare in your mind how hard you have to lean. Go on around the donut.You will soon 'feel' if any are not as tight as the others. If so, use the memory of how tight they were to judge how tight to take the loose nut.It's not perfect, but it works! (Story of my life, really!)John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted September 11, 2011 Author Share Posted September 11, 2011 Thanks John.Unfortunately I didn't torque them up, just got them 'fairly' tight. I haven't had the hubs off (I got the couplings on by levering them over the outer shaft) so haven't been able to get on to them properly at any time. I undid them with a ring spanner with a long bar over the end for leverage.Ideally, I need a ring spanner with torque settings built in. Does such a tool exist? If not, its about time someone designed/invented one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 You can get torque wrenches with a knuckle on the end that will take an open ended spanner attachment, but to be honest it's proabably not worth the cost for a one off job.When I replaced one of my roto rubbers recently due to a bolt breaking ??) I had both rear wheels on ramps. I tigthened the two accessible rear rotoflex bolts on each side with a 3/4" ring spanner and a tube about a foot long until they felt "right". Then I put a blob of white paint on them so I knew which ones I had tightened. With a trolley jack under the wishbone, I lifted one wheel at a time clear of the ramp, turned it to present the next pair of bolts, dropped it back on the ramp and repeated the process. Did the same of all 12 bolts (both sides) and am pretty happy that all are as tight as they need to be.Not terribly scientific.Glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 OK, dave.Try getting a similar ?old rotaflex? bolt and a new nut.Arrange it in i a suitbale hole, (?old rotaflex donut?) on the bench in a vice.Then tighten it with torque wrebch and proceed as above, using 'memory'.Beware. Its easier on the bench than lying under the car!John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Thanks Glen and John. As the tub is off it's very easy for access so will have a go. Want it to be right. Having paid £100 each for metalastik couplings I don't want them 'flapping' around!Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Having finished the rear suspension (or so I thought) I have moved on to the rear brakes.However, I noticed to day that the bump stops are hard up against the lever arm dampers and look like they are under a lot of force.Is that right? Shouldn't there be a small gap between the bump stops and the dampers? What have I done wrong?I put the dampers on by attaching first to the drop link, then with the outside bolt attahed to the chassis and damper I swivelled the damper into position so that the inner bolt would line up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 Do you mean the droop-stops? Without the car weight the spring will be pushing against them pretty firmly.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 I haven't had the hubs off (I got the couplings on by levering them over the outer shaft) Are you saying that you levered them over the spider arms,!!!if yes, then you have just kernakkerd both of em,will last no time at all, more than likely,they are parting company with the inter leaves right noo.Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Nick, we considered that. Dad and I stood on the spring (combined weight about 26 stone) and made little difference.I also looked at a picture of a Vitesse in the Rimmers catalogue without body on and that showed loads of clearance between the lever arm and the bump stop.I am somewhat puzzled, and frustrated that its not right. Progress is slow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave mc Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 GT6 MI know of loads of people that have done it that way and they have lasted years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyf Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 Nick_Jones wrote:Do you mean the droop-stops? Without the car weight the spring will be pushing against them pretty firmly.NickI Agree with Nick, with the car Jacked up the Lever arm damper arm will squash the rubber bump stop, with the Car back on the ground and then driven there should be a gap between the damper arm and bump stop. With a bare Chassis only it will still be compressing the bump stop rubber without the weight of the body compressing the spring.Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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