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GT6 MK3 Rear Suspension Rebuild & CV Conversion.


sam93

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Hello All,

I've got a few questions regarding my latest project. It started out as a few small bits of metalwork, but has kind of snowballed into something I'd planned to do just much sooner than first thought.

Right then firstly, regarding the shims for setting the endfloat on the rear wheel bearings. I've dismantled both rotoflex couplings as required to replace the wheel bearings. Unless they have eluded me somehow, which I don't see how, I've not found any shims around the old wheel bearings which I've removed. So what can people recommend, in terms of buying a selection of these for when I build up the Canleys CV conversion driveshafts ?

Next, the passenger side wheel hub, seems to have be ground / filed for some reason in the past. Doesn't look like damage from an aged wheel bearing though. See pictures what do you guys think ? The one which looks okay to me is from the drivers side. Is this going to be detrimental in anyway or should it be okay ?

Going back to the CV conversion, anyone got any advice for this ? I gather the main tricky bit is just setting up the endfloat on the wheel bearings. Anyone know of a good step by step guide ?

Thanks in advance,
Sam.

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I've just recently had to have the driver's side one done on mine.

For the shims, buy a selection and send the unused ones back (which reminds me...) for a refund.

The hub that some cretin has attacked with a grinder is almost certainly scrap. Even if the inner bearing fits snugly, it won't be properly supported and will wear away quickly. If it's not snug it just won't work. Buy a new hub.

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Got to agree with Rob, don't use that hub again, I wouldn't like to think I was driving at 70 on the Motorway with that spinning around ??)

For setting up the end float on the Rear bearings have a look at the Canley Classics site.

A guy called Richard Briscoe has had some of the Shims and spacers made up for setting the end float, is contact details courtesy of Cookie from a similar post on the TSSC Website are e-mail - rbmobileclassics@gmail.com or mobile number - 07766 354449

If you follow the procedure in the Workshop manual it's based on using a special Churchill Tool :-/

The important thing is to have a very small amount of play (End float) the workshop manual tells you the measurement (between 1 - 2 thousandth of an inch I think?)

With the rear suspension fully rebuilt and back on the car, you should be able to feel the slightest movement if you try and wobble the wheel when the car is jacked up.

Regards

Gary

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