Jonny-Jimbo Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Hi all,Following on from fitting the new exhaust manifold to my Mk1, I'm also thinking of upgrading the suspension and brakes on the car too.Again, are there any pitfalls of the following;About a year ago I replaced all the dampers with new KYB units from CW. But the springs looked okay. However, I'm thinking of fitting the progressive wound springs on the front, and something of similar ilk on the rear. Most of the car is poly-bushed too. I presume that these are a good enough fit that they can be fitted 'as per book', and don't need any fettling?The other upgrade is changing to Mk2 front brakes, as the Mk1 ones currently on the car are shagged - not much meat on the pad and the discs are on the way out too.So, to upgrade to Mk2 brakes, I'll need the mk2 hub, discs (obviously), and pads. Will I also need to change the brake pipes, or are the threads the same on the Mk2 calipers? Finally, over the top of all this, will the TR6 steels sit over the top of them without an issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Jonny,If you look back through this board for topics started by me, I have had a couple of threads before xmas on similar topic?To recap what I think I learnt - better dampers, I went the Koni route front and back (rears from Mr Shackford)Full polybush - you seem to have that covered.Better springs - I was likewise looking at Progs for the front, and possibly 625lbers from Mr Shackford for the rear if he still has them. I don't run an arb however, that may make a difference. I have seen some guys running progs all round I think??If back end is lowered too much then maybe you will need some camber adjusters, CW has them in two sizes?Brakes - I went the Stag route, I might suggest better pads than stock however with whatever route you choose? I was intending Mintex 1144's myself.Cheers,Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt George Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Quoted from thebrookster Jonny,Brakes - I went the Stag route, I might suggest better pads than stock however with whatever route you choose? I was intending Mintex 1144's myself.Cheers,Phil Sorry for the slight thread drift, but can I ask a question about the Stag setup Phil… what parts did you need to use to make them fit? I've got some refurbed Stag calipers for my MkII, but not sure exactly what else I need. Obviously discs, then backing plate, but what else? And will my existing braided hoses fit, or do they need swapping as well?Cheers,Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 When I did mine I think it was just calipers and discs. The backplates were close enough and the same hoses fit. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 Nick, is that in relation to the Mk1 or the Mk2 with Stag discs? I thought the hubs were different too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Matt - I am afraid I am of no use to you here, Nick's capable hands will be of more use!As it currently stands my stag setup is sat in the shed of a fellow club member, along with some other bits and pieces!Not only that, but I have managed to score the entire front end near enough of a stag, so my conversion will be essentially pre-assembled and fitted as a job lot with any luck!Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Jonny - I understand the Mk2 hubs are the same as the Stag, it is just the Mk1 that needs the hubs changing.Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 My car is a Mk1, so I will need to change the hubs then.Another reason for doing this is that after I changed the dampers I had a lot of positive camber on the front wheels. I need to get my camber gauge on it, but it looks to be about 5 degrees pos. So that needs changing too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Mine was a Mk2. Earlier Mk1s with the thin discs will need the hubs as well.There are (or should be) shims between the flange on the bottom of the strut and the stub axle carrier which set the camber. They are not very obvious and like to stick to one half or the other and then fall off when you aren't looking....Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Oh no, I found the shims, I have a copy of the blue 2000 workshop manual so I saw they were in there... What I didn't realise is that the position of them is important in terms of going on the fore or aft bolt. So I think during all this and doing the brakes etc I may strip it all apart and try to reset it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Hello Jonny, there need to be equal shims on both of the two bolts otherwise you will be trying to distort the base of the damper tube. (Being weaker than the hub support part.)Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Well, I'll have to look into it and see what is what, I may have got it right or wrong, I'm not sure now. Either way, after changing the dampers and top mounts, I went from a bit of negative camber to a fair bit of positive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Probably a silly question, but has your ride height raised with the new dampers? From what I've seen of my front suspension those shims cant really adjust the camber that much as everything in there is too stiff, as in to many or too little shims and it just wouldnt go together.Also another possible silly question but have you driven it since refitting the dampers. You always get a lot of positive camber when the car has been raised then lowered until you drive it or at least turn the wheels hard each way a few times. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Yes, it has a bit, but I think that is also down to the fact the old top mounts had collapsed too - this was what lead me to stripping the car in the first place actually. But they were replaced with good second hand ones, and the new dampers installed.Yeah, I have driven the car, probably about 1500 - 2000 miles, and although it has settled a bit, it's not as much as I thought it would have been. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Its wierd to have gotten so much camber hey. Has the wheel alignment been changed at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Nope, feels fine to drive, just looks very odd. When I stripped it down I didn't take the knuckles off the arms and just unbolted the dampers to change the units over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 I guess it must be the shims then. I didn't think they would give much adjustment. I dont think mine has any actually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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