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Rotoflex & CV's conversions


Richard B

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Anybody got the installed measurement of a driveshaft (Rotoflex or CV conversion). From the diff flange face to some accesible point on the vertical link.

If someone has an un-installed CV conversion then the min & max lengths would be great; measured diff flange face to the face on CV where the rotoflex shims go.

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A "Bowler" driveshaft with adaptor fitted measures 432mm compressed to 450mm extended front bearing contact face to flange contact face.  This probably won't tie up exactly with a standard bearing arrangement as the back of the bearing is likely to be in a different place.  I've never measured to compare I'm afraid.

You're a week too late: I dismantled my collection of roto driveshafts last weekend.  Anyone want some, trade opinion seems to be that they are worth their weight in scrap but I really hate to chuck out parts that will never be made again :(

Nick

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Nick_Jones wrote:
A "Bowler" driveshaft with adaptor fitted measures 432mm compressed to 450mm extended front bearing contact face to flange contact face.  This probably won't tie up exactly with a standard bearing arrangement as the back of the bearing is likely to be in a different place.  I've never measured to compare I'm afraid.

You're a week too late: I dismantled my collection of roto driveshafts last weekend.  Anyone want some, trade opinion seems to be that they are worth their weight in scrap but I really hate to chuck out parts that will never be made again :(

Nick


Cheers Nick, could you measure adapter flange face (where it meets the diff) to the back of the vertical link (by the seal)? Please? That should be the same dimension as my setup.

or could you tell me how far from "extended front bearing contact face" to the back of the vertical link?

I've got a rotoflex drive shaft here, but am not sure how much to take off the length for the pre-load!

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Richard_B wrote:


Cheers Nick, could you measure adapter flange face (where it meets the diff) to the back of the vertical link (by the seal)? Please? That should be the same dimension as my setup.

or could you tell me how far from "extended front bearing contact face" to the back of the vertical link?

I've got a rotoflex drive shaft here, but am not sure how much to take off the length for the pre-load!


Hmmm,

ok, but not now  :P .  I had an assembled set of the Bowler version here until yesterday, your timing needs work.....

Why do you need to know?  I'd have thought the path of least resistance now would be to scare up the right driveshafts 'cause we know they work.  You want to avoid cutting too many square edged circlip slots in the shafts you've got as with 2.5 torque there is some chance of busting them.  The proper shafts have the stress raising grooves in areas that don't see torque.  I guess mk3 Escorts are not so common now but mk4 should be the same provided you get the right one.

Nick



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This place lists two LH shafts for the Manual 1600 Mk3 FO803 or FO806

http://www.carparts-direct.co.uk/drive_shafts_detail.cfm

Mine were labeled up Escort and but they did have ABS.  If I could be sure of what I was ordering.....  :-/

I'd like to find somewhere that sold the bare shafts without the CV's, then I could check easily. Not something that breakers will be keen to do and I am on a budget!

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I've got a couple of detached rear corners loose in storage, I think with the vertical links still in place.  I can pull them out this afternoon (approx. 9 hours).

I hesitate measuring anything on the car, as its frame & extremities have been banged around & straightened out almost as much as mine.

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rotoflex wrote:
I've got a couple of detached rear corners loose in storage, I think with the vertical links still in place.  I can pull them out this afternoon (approx. 9 hours).

I hesitate measuring anything on the car, as its frame & extremities have been banged around & straightened out almost as much as mine.



The trouble is Bill the pre-load on the rotoflex shortens the length of the shaft (have you ever seen an installed rotoflex, no wonder they fail). So I either need a fitted length of an OE setup or the min & max of a CV conversion.

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I'm stuck:

Can't lay a tape along it because the doughnut is in the way

From below, the frame & a support are in the way of wangling a measurement via dropping some points & keeping the tape along the axis of the axle

Any ideas?

I wonder if measuring a free assembly and coming up with a measurement of the deflection of the doughnut might work out more accurately.

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Richard_B wrote:
This place lists two LH shafts for the Manual 1600 Mk3 FO803 or FO806

I'd like to find somewhere that sold the bare shafts without the CV's, then I could check easily. Not something that breakers will be keen to do and I am on a budget!


On my most recent scrap yard foray I got a pair of Volvo shafts (4 cvs) and 4 x LH R100 shafts with vertical link and hub for
£ 50 which was acceptable value.  I had to take them off, but I'm getting quite practiced at that, and the nice man minding the yard tipped the Volvo on its side for me  :).  I need more now and I fear his stock may not have recovered yet.... :-/

My Euroshaft catalogue (2001/2 vintage!!) lists the complete shaft as FO3806 and the length as 590mm.  I can't see anywhere that says how those measurements are taken though.  There another listed that also appears to be applicable (though all but one listing of it is for auto?) which is FO3803 @ 573mm.  I'm fairly confident that  mine is the first of those and if you stick between dates 2.82 and 10.90 with a 1.6 manual petrol or diesel with NO ABS you will get the right thing.  My book has no ABS listing before 10.90.

If it helps, I measured the gap between the end of the Ford shaft and the standard diff flange with the outer CV seated in the correct position and got 31 mm at full bump and 18mm at full droop (13mm plunge).

Without dismantling I don't think I can be more precise.  My note taking wasn't great as I wasn't planning on repeating it at the time and I was doing it more or less "direct to metal"

Nick

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rotoflex wrote:
I'm stuck:
Can't lay a tape along it because the doughnut is in the way


On the free rotoflex shaft I have. I ran a piece of string (inside the dougnut) from the flange to the dust shield, this came out as 16-3/8". Bit crude, but thats me.

This is the 'off the car' measurement. I think Nick it's the 590mm shaft. I know Volvo CV's are getting a bit scarce.

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Richard_B wrote:


On the free rotoflex shaft I have. I ran a piece of string (inside the dougnut) from the flange to the dust shield, this came out as 16-3/8". Bit crude, but thats me.



Okay, I'll try something similar with some baling wire.  It's less prone to stretching, & might be more easily positioned.

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Deeb wrote:
Jacked up, suspension on full droop.
(1/2 inch is actually 12.7mm which is why when you're undoing rusty 1/2" AF nuts with a 13mm spanner you normally slip off and bash your knuckles - or is that only me?)   :'(


No, not just you...... :(  Conversely, 1/2" is quite good for having another go at slightlychewed 13mm nuts.

Nick

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I constructed a crude caliper from a piece of non-springy baling wire to go around all the protuberances, & with th car jacked up in the rear & left rear wheel off the ground, measured along the top from the mating face of the flange on the differential end to the end of the shaft where it enters the round thing in the wheel.

16 3/16" straight across from end to end is what I got.

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